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Ok here we go...

I have done many searches & this is what i have come to find so far...(please correct me if i am wrong)

The std R33 turbo ceramic exhaust wheel is rated at 14psi max

A stock 33 with std SMIC has a pressure drop of 5-7psi from 5000-7000rpm

A good FMIC has around a 1psi pressure drop

A R33 GTS-T takes boost reading after the IC, meaning it is not a true reading of what the turbo is actually doing.

If all the above is true this means that a std 33 is almost running at turbo's max potential (7psi plus 5-7psi pressure drop which equals 12-14psi at the turbo) therefore should not be boosted much more & since a good FMIC only has a 1psi drop then logically should be safe to run 12-13psi reading from gauge (meaning 13-14psi at turbo)

Anyway the point of this thread is to see if i have got it right but mainly to ask what would the pressure drop be if a R34 SMIC was fitted (which is approx 30% larger than std SMIC) & what would be a safe level to run at the gauge using the above reasoning?

Any thoughts or comments would be grateful

Cheers

Noel

The pressure drop at lower boost say 10psi, plenty for making good power, on the factory intercooler is sweet bugger all, a psi ot two (I measured it a very long time ago).

The R34 is generally agreed to have a tad more head room, there are people who have made a fair whack more than 200rwkw with them at even upto 1.3 bar, 1.5 psi drop according to Sydneykid as mentioed in thread below.

Read this old thread see Sydneykids posts;

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...07406&st=20

read these too;

http://www.are.com.au/feat/techtalk/inteco....htm#AIR%20FLOW

http://www.are.com.au/products/ic_kw_cfm.htm

Thanks Rev

Legend!!!

I'll have a read of these...I got myself a R34 SMIC & Shroud the other night from a user on SAU ;-) so looking forward to throwing it on ;-)

Might get myself a Turbotech boost control & cheap boost gauge too & either just set it to a constant 7psi instead of the 5/7psi std or maybe even wind it up to a massive 8psi hehe since i should now have a bit better flowing intercooler

Once again Thanks

Noel

Hey Noel, please keep us posted if you notice any improvments with the R34 GTT SMIC upgrade on your S2 R33... i was thinking to do the same however a full FMIC kit for $350 is hard to beat... Let us know how you go...

Regards,

Sarkis

QRI05E,

If your running a turbo upto around the 230rwkw mark the R34 intercooler is a much nicer option than the cheapo $350 china cooler. Lots less volume to fill means much improved response.

exactly.

Just because something is $350, doesnt make it better by any means.

For a stock turbo'd gts-t, it would be R34 sidemount hands down winner IMO.

Hey Noel, please keep us posted if you notice any improvments with the R34 GTT SMIC upgrade on your S2 R33... i was thinking to do the same however a full FMIC kit for $350 is hard to beat... Let us know how you go...

Regards,

Sarkis

No problem..will do

I was thinking of a FMIC but my car is bog stock, exhaust & all & I have no plans for changing the turbo or anything, so the way i see it for under $300 (R34 SMIC, boost control & gauge) i will have a better intercooler, a touch more boost (or the same but constant) & it will still be practically stock. If later down the track i decide to, all i would really need is a full exhaust & power fc & id be pretty much done & be looking at close to 200rwkw which is more than enough for a street car in my opinion.

No problem..will do

I was thinking of a FMIC but my car is bog stock, exhaust & all & I have no plans for changing the turbo or anything, so the way i see it for under $300 (R34 SMIC, boost control & gauge) i will have a better intercooler, a touch more boost (or the same but constant) & it will still be practically stock. If later down the track i decide to, all i would really need is a full exhaust & power fc & id be pretty much done & be looking at close to 200rwkw which is more than enough for a street car in my opinion.

Funny you guys should be talking about this today. After only having my S2 33 for a month, I'm about ready to start getting up to a bit of mischeiv. I've always wanted a 33 and after reading what you all had to say I took the plunge - so thank you for that.

First of all, apart from some really minor suspension tweaks, the car is stock. I let my mate (a mech) take it for spin today and he said the engine is sweet but it doesn't seem to have enough boost. He has owned an S1 and says he had no trouble breaking traction while on the move (this is without a boost controller apparently). I'm going to buy a gauge on the weekend so I can see more accurately, but looking at the gauge in the dash, with my foot on the floor it's on around 300 mm mg (5.8 psi). That is to say it's just under the halfway mark between the 0 and 7.

Does this sound about right to you? Should I be able to peg the meter in the dash?

Thanks for the advice on the R34 SMIC btw - I might have to go have a look for one now.

Thanks guys i appreciate the advise! would be intresting to see if a R34 SMIC makes any difference over the stock R33 SMIC in performance @ 10psi in an R33 with stock turbo and full exhaust..

Regards,

Sarkis

PSI aside, does anyone know the power rating for the R33 stock intercooler? The R34's about 200rwkw, and i heard that the R33's is about 160.. is this true?

Engine detonations aren't exactly the most fun things to experience ^_^"

First of all, apart from some really minor suspension tweaks....... I let my mate (a mech) take it for spin today and he said the engine is sweet but it doesn't seem to have enough boost. He has owned an S1 and says he had no trouble breaking traction while on the move...

A cars ability to break traction is a common misconception people make to gauge power. Suspension setup and tyres have a massive effect on this, more so suspension.

A perfect example is my car and R31NISMOIDS car. We both have import R31 coupes.

He had over 270rwkw and was running 225 wide tyres from memory and they were just cheapies. Wheel spin in first and when into second gear it just stuck and took off.

I had noticably less power at 235rwkw and had yokohama 265s on the rear. Not only first and second gear wheelspin, but even in third when ramping up to boost it would still step out violently.

Ye, perfect example :(

I had expensive 225s in 16" tho. So a little play in the tyres aswell.

Suspension & tyre setup plays such a crucial role.

With my power i really, as stated, had little issue other than 1st if i was a bit savage on the launch.

Where some people would be all over the place, i would just squat down and shoot off.

In a stocker car, if your breaking traction you need some better rubber, and then look @ the seup of it all if its still an issue

i put a r34 smic on about a month ago on my stocker. It didn't make it have any more power of course (stock boost), but boost came on slighty quicker....

I threw cooler in on the weekend after giving it a good clean with a 50/50 kero/metho mix (took 3-4 flushes) then gave the outside a good degrease & also straightened up as possible all the blades that had been bent from tiny rocks etc hitting it

anyhow as above i also noticed boost comes on quicker but also maybe even a tad stronger...I defintaley notice the dual stage jump from 5psi-7psi more now with 34 SMIC than std 33 SMIC...anyway Turbotech boost control is in the mail & bidding for a gauge on ebay so once arrived will make it a constant 7psi or maybe 8psi & should be sweet as for now til i can afford full exhaust & power fc later down the track.

Definatley a good cheap upgarde worth doing especially if you have no plans on upgrading turbo but want to to do all the usual's (exhaust, intake etc)

Regards

Noel

Edited by Noel

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