Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1995 seris 2 GTS-T, 2.5L, 5 speed manual with 113,XXX kms. Car is in excellent condition both inside and out.

Engine has just been fully rebuilt about 800 kms ago with forged pistons. Also has a brand new clutch.

engine mods include:

X-RACING front mount cooler,

BLITZ blow-off valve,

3" turbo-back exhaust with X-FORCE muffler,

APEXI pod filter

TURBO SMART boost controller

Strut brace.

The interior:

JVC DVD player (7" screen),

APEXI SAFC-II,

G-REDDY boost guage,

G-REDDY turbo timer,

racing pedals.

The exterior:

VEILSIDE body kit (currently got stock front bar on)

18" HR RACING chrome wheels,

GTR Suspension

Comes with 12 months reg. Also comes with stock parts including cooler, suspension, spoiler.

$18,000 ONO

PM, e-mail or call me on 0402 579 517

post-28233-1162447267.jpg

post-28233-1162447432.jpg

post-28233-1162447596.jpg

post-28233-1162448399.jpg

Edited by bradz33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/141530-1995-series-2-r33-gts-t/
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • But it's much better to use a freedom unit that has four different possible meanings...
    • I would try messing with friction modifier to see if it smooths it out.  Just keep adding more until it stops chattering or grabbing quite so much. If you haven't changed the gear oil in a long time you may as well start there too in case that has anything to do with it. You might want to also verify the initial torque is set to the lowest setting too. Requires popping out one of the CV axles first but that's not too bad. Once you're sure the preload is set to the lowest you can try adding an ounce at a time of friction modifier until it feels right to you.
    • It is possibly 55 degrees for the Nismo version. I had a look through the manual and the stocker has a breakaway torque of 2.5 to 3.5kgm. Supposedly the Nismo LSD goes down to 5kgm when worn in but it is pretty grabby even with very little throttle. Worse when cold. So I guess you have three things. 1. Shims. 2 Friction plates 3. Cams Would think shims would be the easiest but Ive no clue how many tenths of a mm shim thickness change equals how many kgm torque. Also not sure if the Nismo friction plates are similar/different to stock or if they are the most of the source of the diff being angry. Think I can write off the Nismo rebuild kit for the standard diff as not being what I want.  
    • Yeah, it was a bit of confusion with me, I rang and asked if they had a boot for a soft top, and then the paint shop when they rang and were asked if it had a hard top on it, which it does, just not a PRHT....LOL Meh, whilst frustrating for all concerned it isn't a war stopper and should be a thing of the past in a week or two In other N/A related news, car is booked in at the end of the month for the cams, springs, retainers, harmonic balancer and retune  I might even pull the lazy arse card and get them to do a full service on it whilst it is there
×
×
  • Create New...