Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I did do a search, but I've got a couple of different question and couldn't really find an answer for them all... I'm not even sure if this is the right forum. So admins; if you want to move it (or just point me in the right direction), it's all good!

Here we go -

Photo_0009.jpg

Anyone know what this is? - It's under the parcel shelf next to the battery (if you know what I mean) in the boot space.

Is it associated with what was here...

Photo_0008.jpg

...what was here? I've seen a few pictures in threads with a box in the middle there, but I assume it got pulled out prior to compliance... probably because it's registed as a 5-seat car as opposed to 4-seat?

Something to do with the stereo? - those speakers look old, so I'm guessing they were factory clarions?

Here's a more obscure one...

Photo_0010.jpg

What do you think was here? I know it's a long shot, because it could have been almost anything... but it's right in the middle of the dash just over the vents (as you may have guessed).

Lastly, anyone have or know where I could get and english manual for this;

Photo_0011.jpg

Not a good picture, I know. It's an Eclipse E5510CMT - 6-disk (+1 MD) CD/Tuner. I did look on the Eclipse site, but obviously it's superceded stock... and googling for it only gives me japanese manuals.

Anyhoo... thanks in advance for any help you can give me.

You know how it is; I can't stop myself from wanting to go out and play with it, find out what everything is and does on it...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/141779-help-a-newbie-identify-things/
Share on other sites

  R33S2 said:
The 1st is your Hicas ecu

2nd was a air purifier

3rd any number of type of diplays, satnav, temp/oil etc

4th Lol I bet its pretty at night

Cheers!

1) Well, I guess that's a relatively sensible place to put the HICAS ecu...

2) Air purifier eh? So that's what it is - as I said, I've seen them, but thought they must be some kind of centre-channel or sub-woofer for the stereo.

Is it ususal that it's been removed? Would it have been ditched in Perth or in Japan?

3) Yeah - I didn't really think I'd find out... I was just wondering if they often had something that sat there, but was always removed before compliance... I suppose anything obstructing your view could be reason to fail it.

My first thought was maybe the TT for the previous owner, or radar detector... but I understand that it could have been anything.

4) It's pretty during the day too! Most of that screen is taken up by the graphic equaliser - Every now and then it gives me some Kanji, but I can't read them... I can work the radio, and the CD-stacker, change the presets on it, but then I'm lost.

That's why I was after the manual.

Thanks again though... now I'll go and poke around somewhere else! :pirate:

I've got a new question!

There's a funny noise coming from my left front wheel arch.

Like a pump motor going, or something revolving at high speed touching something... like a tyre touching something for example.

Noticible really only at speed; if I boot it, or if the car drops onto the suspension (going over a bump at speed).

It's bog standard so it shouldn't be hitting the body or anything like that.

I pulled over and took a look at the tyres - there's no obvious signs of it having rubbed.

However, the plastic panel at the back of the front air-dam (M-Spec) seems to be a bit loose - could this be the problem? At high speed it just gets bent enough to touch the wheel?

What can be done to fix it (if it is the problem)? I guess I'll need some of thos little plastic clips? Where to they come from?

Oh yeah - I also found out what that "snow" button is useful for.

Anybody driving in Perth on saturday can tell you that there was a bit of rain - I pulled out of a side road, there was no audible sqeeling, but the back was fish-tailing everywhere. It actually took me a few seconds to work out what was wrong because the acceleration wasn't bad (I didn't boot it, I was trying to drive for the conditions) and the front was pointing mostly in the right direction.

Next corner I made sure it was on "snow" and had no more traction problems for the rest of the day... even when I was leaving commodores behind at the lights.

  R33S2 said:
The plastic guard on mine was doing the same, I made new mounting points by screwing with self tappers next to the old points into the plastic bits only.

I can do that.

Can it be removed completely, or does that risk damaging the stock intercooler?

It's a funny noise isn't it? Didn't stress me out becuase it doesn't sound like anything was getting destroyed, but as soon as I stopped for fuel I checked it out.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, after the full circus this week (new gearbag, 14 psi actuator on, injectors and AFM upgraded, and.....turbo repair) the diagnosis on the wastegate is in. It was broken. It was broken in a really strange way. The weld that holds the lever arm onto the wastegate flapper shaft broke. Broke completely, but broke in such a way that it could go back together in the "correct" position, or it could rearrange itself somewhere else along the fracture plane and sit with the flapper not parallel to the lever. So, who knows how and when exactly what happened? No-one will ever know. Was it broken like this the first time it spat the circlip and wedged itself deep into the dump? Or was it only broken when I tried to pry it back into place? (I didn't try that hard, but who knows?). Or did it break first? Or did it break between the first and second event of wierdness? Meh. It doesn't matter now. It is welded back together. And it is now held closed by a 14 psi actuator, so...the car has been tuned with the supporting mods (and the order of operations there is that the supporting mods and dyno needed to be able to be done first before adding boost, because it was pinging on <<14 psi with the new turbo with only a 6 psi actuator). And then tuned up a bit, and with the boost controller turned off throughout that process. So it was only running WG pressure and so only hit about 15-16 psi. The turbo is still ever so slightly lazier than might be preferred - like it is still a bit on the big side for the engine. I haven't tested it on the road properly in any way - just driven it around in traffic for a half hour or so. But it is like chalk and cheese compared to what it was. Between dyno numbers and driving feedback: It makes 100 kW at 3k rpm, which is OK, could be better. That's stock 2JZ territory, or RB20 with G series 550. It actually starts building boost from 2k, which is certainly better than it did recently (with all the WG flapper bullshit). Although it's hard to remember what it was like prior to all that - it certainly seems much, much better. And that makes sense, given the WG was probably starting to blow open at anything above about 3 psi anyway (with the 6 psi actuator). It doesn't really get to "full boost" (say 16 psi) until >>4k rpm. I am hopeful that this is a feature of the lack of boost controller keeping boost pressure off the actuator, because it was turned off for the dyno and off for the drives afterward. There's more to be found here, I'm sure. It made 230 rwkW at not a lot more than 6k and held it to over 7k, so there seems to be plenty of potential to get it up to 250-260rwkW with 18 psi or so, which would be a decent effort, considering the stock sized turbo inlet pipework and AFM, and the return flow cooler. According to Tao, those things should definitely put a bit of a limit on it by that sort of number. I must stress that I have not opened the throttle 100% on the road yet - well, at least not 100% and allowed it to wind all the way up. It'll have to wait until some reasonable opportunity. I'm quite looking forward to that - it feels massively better than it has in a loooong time. It's back to its old self, plus about 20% extra powers over the best it ever did before. I'm going to get the boost controller set up to maximise spool and settle at no more than ~17 psi (for now) and then go back on the dyno to see what we can squeeze out of it. There is other interesting news too. I put together a replacement tube to fit the R35 AFM in the stock location. This is the first time the tuner has worked with one, because anyone else he has tuned for has gone from Z32 territory to aftermarket ECU. No-one has ever wanted to stay Nistuned and do what I've done. Anyway, his feedback is that the R35 AFM is super super super responsive. Tiny little changes in throttle position or load turn up immediately as a cell change on the maps. Way, way more responsive than any of the old skool AFMs. Makes it quite diffifult to tune as you have to stay right on top of that so you don't wander off the cell you wanted to tune. But it certainly seems to help with real world throttle response. That's hard to separate from all the other things that changed, but the "pedal feel" is certainly crisp.
    • I'm a bit confused by this post, so I'll address the bit I understand lol.  Use an air compressor and blow away the guide coat sanding residue. All the better if you have a moisture trap for your compressor. You'd want to do this a few times as you sand the area, you wouldn't for example sand the entire area till you think its perfect and then 'confirm' that is it by blowing away the guide coat residue.  Sand the area, blow away the guide coat residue, inspect the panel, back to sanding... rinse and repeat. 
    • The detail level is about right for the money they charge for the full kit... AU$21.00 each issue, 110 issues for a total of $2,300 (I mentioned $2.2K in the first post when the exchange rate was better). $20/week is doable... 馃槓
    • If planning on joining us for the day(s) please indicate by filling in this form. https://forms.gle/Ma8Nn4DzYVA8uDHg7
    • You put the driver's seat on the wrong side! Incredible detail on all of this. It looks like you could learn a lot about the car just from assembling the kit.
  • Create New...