Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It would be an interesting contest but i reakon that the skyline would have better final drive ratio than the commondore, giving it more acceleration. With the same, power in a lighter car, with better gear ratios i think the skyline would do it. But, obviously the commondore i would expect to have a fare bit more torque so as i said , it would be an interesting race.

It would be torque Vs ratios!

The VT will get a better launch thanks to an auto but if its a decent drag strip where you can go for at least 400m or longer, the GT-T will own the VT as its a good 300kg lighter.

Mind you 300rwkw VT Auto thats N/A is pretty hardcore.

theres a tone of factors. what mods to the diff etc of the VT? is it a series 1 or 2. is the transmission been kitted or anything? what tyres are they running?

what time would a 300rwkw r34 run?

oh and autos run quicker and more consitent times than a manual. :laugh:

this would a very close race.

i can tell u guys now that the ls1 is going to be pumping 300rw/kw just by doing exhaust alone (my mates dad spent $3500 on extractors alone on his vt series 2 and the rest of the exhaust and got 300rw/kw) remember in europe and US ls1's come with 400bhp from the factory :)

and yes i would like to know what a 300rw/kw gtt would run

this would a very close race.

i can tell u guys now that the ls1 is going to be pumping 300rw/kw just by doing exhaust alone (my mates dad spent $3500 on extractors alone on his vt series 2 and the rest of the exhaust and got 300rw/kw) remember in europe and US ls1's come with 400bhp from the factory :)

and yes i would like to know what a 300rw/kw gtt would run

you sure?

ive seen alot of LS1's get 300rwhp from exhaust/intake/mafless tune, but not 300rwkw

you sure?

ive seen alot of LS1's get 300rwhp from exhaust/intake/mafless tune, but not 300rwkw

hmmm maybe i remembered incorrectly. with the LS1 unlock theres ure 300+rw/kw(would be either europes or US's ecu map) right there. either way its shit cheap to get big power figures out of the ls1's

Edited by yoshimitsu9
also aussie ls1s are 5.7L compared to the yank 4.8L or whatever it is...

with an ls1 all you need is extractor exhaust intake and tune and youve got 250+rwkw easy as. not bad for $3k mods or so.

The problem with the Aussie Ls1's are the tune. Get a good tune, extractors and twin 2.5 exhaust and a decent OTR intake and you'll be pushing 250rwkw, good easy bolt on mods. Injectors won't give you anymore power. With cam will make you around 280rwkw.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Ok glad you clarified on the frenchy’s options , I was worried about if my oem hoses would fit the new compressor or not if I just bought the bracket/compressor kit ,  didn’t realize they also sold a larger full conversion kit. Hmm may just go oem in that case then to make it easy only because I plan to sell this car to upgrade to a 32 GTR or 34 GTT.
    • Right, here's a video of the basic operation at least.  This is what you can expect day to day when you turn the car on and it boots from standby.  The only thing from a media point of view I haven't gotten working is for it to autoplay plexamp when it turns on from standby (it works from cold boot) but that's more of a plexamp problem as it will autoplay other music players.  Also attached is my one stray cable.  It's part of the screen's wiring adapters but there's just nowhere for it to go in my car.  I've just now done a bit of research and found a matching port on a 2010-2014 head unit with BOSE.  Mine has no BOSE so that's that case pretty much closed I think.  Plugging in the Infiniti AC panel basically did nothing for me, so that's a dead end as well.  Next port of call is to mess with this CANBUS module and see what I can find from it.  I found this resource containing the DBC files for a 2010+ G37 : https://github.com/icecube45/Dash_InfinitiG37/blob/master/InfinitiG37.dbc I'll now have something to go from when I try to extract my CANBUS data so I can see if the HVAC Mode, Fan Speed, Temperature, etc. match and also the gear shifter position.  It's a pretty big assumption that it's just mismatched CAN signals but considering all the devices in the CAN network are talking to each other (AC can be fully adjusted just with no info on screen) it might be a safe one.  I will report back WhatsApp Video 2025-02-26 at 12.49.10.mp4
    • Thanks for that Paul.  Do you think if I posted a picture you'd be able to remember where it went? 
    • Sorry Duncan, I didn't get a notification for the replies.  Thanks for responding!  It's a full Android device, but does allow you to use CarPlay/AA as well.  This is the one I bought from NaviRS on AliExpress: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006368602668.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.111.59aa1802JDzQ0E - the 2K 8G-256G CAM variant but it seems to have gone up by £170 since I bought it!  My purchase was £307.14.   It's not the fastest thing in the world but performs perfectly adequately.  It stays on standby unless I disconnect the battery and let it power down, then it's just a fairly standard Android bootup time from cold.  The DSP Equaliser is very nice and made the standard stereo system sound pretty decent compared to the stock screen.  Perhaps I can take a video of it when I get a sec. It *allegedly* supports the reverse camera, but I'm yet to get that working.  It has options for reverse cam (a camera unit can be bought separately) or 360 cameras (also bought separately).  To be fair it doesn't seem to detect that the shifter was put into reverse but I'm working on a theory about this as well.  At the moment I'm going without which is a bit annoying considering the car is an absolute canal barge but so far I haven't caused any damage I'll grab a picture of the wire I'm missing later today when I can get outside.  My theory, by the by, is that not only is the head unit different, but the CANBUS network has different signals for the different years.  I think this because I have a spare AC panel from a newer Infiniti G37 (as opposed to my Nissan panel) which wouldn't control anything except the volume when I had it wired up with the stock system.  I'm going to throw it back in and see if the screen will respond to it.  I've just ordered an arduino CANBUS module so I can have a look at the signals going around the car and see if I can spot anything.  I'm thinking if I can work out what it's expecting vs what it's getting I might be able to translate and relay the signal back but so far just a theory anyway. I also found this on my travels, so far the only one that specifically matches my car: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002822934280.html?spm=a2g0s.imconversation.0.0.33433e5fgttovi If you look at the picture of the before, it has the card reader slot, and the picture of the head unit is exactly the same as the one pictured in my original post.  I asked if they sell the cables separately but sadly they won't.  I didn't want to just buy this one because it's a super old Android version and only dual core - likely slow as hell. 
    • As above, you did refill the coolant and burp the system before running it again didn't you?
×
×
  • Create New...