Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

gday guys, well i have an rb26 that requires a rebuild. the engine is out and has began to be stripped. so i will be using this thread to get as much info as i possible can. i am aiming to build to make reasonable amount of power out of the engine

the first this i really wanna knkow is about the N1 oil pump. i have been told not to use it as the have been failing people. and also that it will cause a ruch of oil flow to the top end causing the bottom end to be lacking in oil.

will the oil galleriy orifice help this problem?

and any help with this first issue will b much appreciated

cheers guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/141933-my-rb26-rebuild/
Share on other sites

hundreds of people are using the N1 pump without problems

Keep your rev limit to a sensible limit and you shouldnt have any problems

If you arent afraid to give the thing a hiding and want more 'peace of mind' then start saving for a Jun pump but expect to pay a little over twice the price of an N1

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/141933-my-rb26-rebuild/#findComment-2643347
Share on other sites

are you building it yourself, or are you getting someone else to assemble it?

If ur not doing it urself, first thing is to find a good builder who u can trust, and talk it out with them. Ask what they know, and have done in the past. Then you can move onto more specific questions :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/141933-my-rb26-rebuild/#findComment-2644335
Share on other sites

just wonering if anyone has a picture or some specs on the oil gallery restrictor/orifice used with the n1 oil pump

cheers

Pleas use the search function mate.

Also read the sticky thread, Forced Induction Guide.

There are lots of things already covered in 10+ page threads with more information that you'll ever need.

Oil control, bottom ends, top ends etc have all been covered quite extensively in the past, so asking them again really doesnt do the people justice who took the time to post detailed information before :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/141933-my-rb26-rebuild/#findComment-2644479
Share on other sites

my car is at a work shop but the are concerned about the oil control and think that i will drop another bottom end. the are a very repitable performance shop and ask me to do a lil researsh into a few things to help me make up my mine as the are flat out.

yeah i have read sydney kids forum on oil control.

there are things i would like to know.

i have been told that there is almost a 50/50 split with people using N1 oil pumps saying the they work or fail, can someone help with this?

will the early model r32 gtr cranks still leqave witness marks on the n1 pump if they have been collared?? or will it be a better idea to get an r33 gtr cranks if possible?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/141933-my-rb26-rebuild/#findComment-2646440
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I think my main complaint with your idea is that there is a veneer of idealism spread across it. You want the simple numbers to make it easier, but all they will do is make it easier for someone to come to the wrong conclusion because the fine details will kick them in the nuts. As it is right now, the tiny bit of arithmetic is NOT the obstacle to understanding what will fit and what will not fit. The reality of trying it is what determines whether it will fit. If you had a "standard rule" that R34 GTT guards have that magic 100mm space from the hub face to whichever side you were worried about, and someone said "excellent, this wheel is only 98mm in that direction, I'll just go spend $4k on them and jam them on my sick ride".....they would just as likely find out that the "standard rule" is not true because the rear subframe is offset to one side by a fairly typical (but variable) 8mm on their car and they only have 92mm on one side and 108 on the other.
    • It still combines inches with mm, especially when you have .5 inches involved, and mm and inches that can go in either direction. This would give a clear idea on both sides of the rim, right away, with no arithmetic. Even better if somebody gives you the dimensions of the arch of multiple cars. i.e GTR may be 125mm, a A80 Supra may be 117mm, or something along those lines. Yes, you can 'know' that going from a 10in rim to a 10.5in rim with the same offset moves both sides about 6mm, but you still have to 'know' that and do the math. Often it's combined. People are going from 9.5 +27 to 10.5 +15. You may do the math to know it, but if it was going from (I had to go look it up to be sure) 241mm/2 - 27 - 93.5mm from the center line to (more math) 266/2 - 15 (118mm) from the center line. Versus 93mm vs 118mm. It's right there. If you know you have a GTT with 100mm guards you can see right away that one is close to flush and the other absolutely won't work. And when someone says "Oh the GTR is 120mm" suddenly you see that the 10.5 +15 is about perfect. (or you go and buy rims with approximately 118mm outward guard space) I think it's safe to say that given one of the most common questions in all modified cars is "How do offsets work" and "How do I know if wheels will fit on my car" that this would be much simpler... Of course, nothing will really change and nobody is going to remanufacture wheels and ditch inches and offset based on this conversation :p We'll all go "18x9+30 will line up pretty close to the guards for a R34 GTT (84mm)" but 'pretty close' is still not really defined (it is now!) and if you really care you still have go measure. Yes it depends on camber and height and dynamic movement, but so do all wheels no matter what you measure it for.
    • But offsets are simple numbers. 8" wheel? Call it 200mm, near enough. +35 offset? OK, so that means the hub face is that far out from the wheel centreline. Which is 2s of mental arithmetic to get to 65mm to outer edge and 135mm to inner. It's hardly any more effort for any other wheel width or offset. As I said, I just close my eyes and can see a picture of the wheel when given the width and offset. That wouldn't help me trust that a marginal fitment would actually go in and clear everything, any more than the supposedly simple numbers you're talking about. I dunno. Maybe I just automatically do numbers.
    • Sure! But you at least have simple numbers instead of 8.5 inches +/mm, relative to your current rims you do maths with as well, and/or compare with OEM diameter, which you also need to know/research/confirm..
×
×
  • Create New...