Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

On the weekend I was installing a 600x300x76 front mount. All was going well until I put the front bumper back on. I had trimmed the bumper back as required, but that wasn't the problem with the bumper fitting. The indicators / fog lamps on the front bumper (series 1) hitting the intercooler end tanks. So as a temporary measure I have zip tied the indicators in. I need another inch of clearance behind the indicators. The intercooler has been located as far back as possible, and the air con fan was removed to move it further back, but it still hasn't helped. The clearance between the indicators is 620mm, while the intercooler is 660mm total width (incl. end tanks)

Has anyone had this problem before???

Is the series 1 front bar different between a sedan and a coupe? (mines a sedan) or is there a difference in the indicator / fog lamp depths. I have searched the forums and it appears that no one else has had this problem.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142051-intercooler-install/
Share on other sites

From memory; of the last installation we did with such a front bar; everything can stay where it is - you just need to perfectly align the front mount.

The indicators need modification; take them out and get at them with a grinder of some sort. Be careful not to go right through them when removing the plastic.

Thanks

Stan

Hey! Same here. Just installed my front mount and the both fog / blinker were on my way when putting back the front bar. I just took the fog / blinker out at this stage. I need find 20mm some where to get it in. I think I will notch out 20mm from the fog / blinker coner.

The front mount is aligned as close to centre as possible with an equal amount overlapping the indicators. I was not sure if the indicators could be cut away as it would be quite a decent chunck. Upto 30 x 40mm cut away.

Hey dude...

I put in a fmic a few days ago and had the same problem, I had to cut a bit of the back of the fog light off, using a jig saw, and then use good thick electrical tape to cover the gap up, and all went well, and fogs still work..good luck, I didnt have to move my air con fan, I just mounted the fmic as back as possible, and trimmed the bar as usual

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Pretty much what you'd expect at that power level. Hypergear turbo, long list of supporting mods, full Haltech catalogue, etc.  I'd say this goes for most drivers, suspension is still a dark art for most people. And it's really hard to convince someone how much better their setup could be...  
    • They are what I will be installing. 640s for me.
    • Hmm... From my experience you get about 0.25° camber change per mm of RUCA length change. So, to correct from -2.5 up to less than -1° (or, more than -1° if you look at the world as a mathematician does) then you'd be making 6-8mm of length change on the RUCA. From a stock length of 308mm, that's 2-2.5% difference in RUCA length. My RUCAs are currently very close to stock length - certainly only 2-3mm different from stock. I had to adjust my tension arms by 6mm to minimise the bump steer. That's 6mm out of 210, which is 2.8%. That's a 2.8% change on those, compared to a <1% change on the RUCAs. So the stock geometry already has worse bump steer than is possible - you can improve it even if you don't change the RUCA length. If you lengthen the RUCAs at all, then you will definitely be adding bump steer. Again, with my car, I recently had an unpleasant amount of bump steer, stemming from a number of things that happened one after another without me having an opportunity to correct for them. I only had to change the tension arm lengths by 1mm to minimise the resulting bump steer. (Granted, I also had to dial out a lot of extra toe-in in the rear, and excessive rear toe-in will make bump steer behaviour worse). Relatively tiny little adjustments having been made - the car is now completely different. Was horrifying how much it wanted to steer from the rear on any significant single wheel bump/dip. And it was even bad on expansion joints on long sweepers on freeway entry/exits, which are notionally hitting both rear wheels at the same time. My point is, the crappy Nissan multilink is quite sensitive to these things (unlike the very nice Toyota suspension!). And I think 99.75% of Skyline owners are blissfully ignorant of what they are driving around on. Sadly, it is a non-trivial exercise to set up to measure and correct bump steer. I am happy to show my rig, which involves nasty chunks of wood bolted to the hub, mirrors, lasers, graph paper targets and other horrors. Just in case anyone wants to see how it is done. I'll just have to set it up to take the photos.
    • What do you have in that bad boy ? Ill go with the 725cc since I'll be going with Nistune ( would definitely like more engine protection but Haltech is too far out of reach at the moment... plus, Ill probably have a pretty safe tune as its a daily, not gonna be chasing peak power 24/7 ahahah ). Are Xspurt a safe choice?  Pete's great. He didnt mention anything about traction arm length so I reckon it may be good. When I get some new wheels/tire later down the road I'll ask him about it and get his opinion on em. I heard from Gary that you've got the bilsteins too, are you running the sway bars too? and what other suspension goodies do you have installed or would recommend?
    • In true Gregging style...  
×
×
  • Create New...