Stupid Bleeder Valve **pics**

[zertek]

hey guys,

I know only the very basics of turbo mechanics so sorry if i sound dumb. This is my first difficulty question so ill try my best to describe it...

Ive owned a 1996 R33 gts-t S2 for about 2 weeks now (and i love it sooo much!).

ANYWAY, I noticed i had a bleeder valve (not sure what sort), not knowing much about it i didnt tamper with it.

The previous owner told me it was running stock boost. I noticed my boost (from the stock boost guage) was running at about on 5. I always thought this was PSI until the other day i noticed it said x100mmHg. A guy from turbo tune near me said that is equivelant to about 16psi???

Also when boosting to that level the car was gittery and unsmooth. So today i removed the bleeder valve and replaced it with a hose straight from the waste gate to my cooler piping (i was told to do this by a few others).

I just took it for a drive and what a difference! It is now VERY smooth. BUT its still running the 5mmHg???

Anybody know what is going on here?

[Al]

Not to technically minded myself, but i know that +5 on the stock gauge is NOT 16psi, it is about 9-10psi. When i ran 13psi, it showed +7 on the dash gauge.

It appears that you have now by-passed the factory solinoid, resulting in a slightly higher boost setting, as boost is now only controlled by the actuator's boost rating.

PS: Any owner that has a bleed valve attached and claims to have never increased boost is full of shit. I see nothing wrong in increasing boost to a safe level, but hate it when people are obviously taking shit. I hope you didn't fall for that line.

[zertek]

Not to technically minded myself, but i know that +5 on the stock gauge is NOT 16psi, it is about 9-10psi. When i ran 13psi, it showed +7 on the dash gauge.

It appears that you have now by-passed the factory solinoid, resulting in a slightly higher boost setting, as boost is now only controlled by the actuator's boost rating.

PS: Any owner that has a bleed valve attached and claims to have never increased boost is full of shit. I see nothing wrong in increasing boost to a safe level, but hate it when people are obviously taking shit. I hope you didn't fall for that line.

cheers Al, good to know im not ripping out 16psi. but i still wanna figure out how i can return to stock boost, so i can do that solenoid mod where u attacth a switch to the ground wire. Im not complaining about the power, but driving around on this much boost constantly uses ALOT of petrol...

Anyone know how my car is by-passing the solenoid?

[Lazy-Bastard]

+7 on the stock gauge is about 14psi

[zertek]

my suspisions are that it has something to do with that line sealed with blue tac and a bolt. but again, i dont know what that line even does....

i really need to know why my car is running so much boost.... i thought removing the bleeder valve would fix this.

[pnblight]

OK the figures your dealing with x 100mmHG(as shown on gauge) and 1 Bar = 770mmHG or 7.7 on the gauge is 1bar(14.7psi)

so 5 (500mmHG) =0.65bar(9.54psi)

[zertek]

woah... cheers pnblight. You know your boost!

So im running about 9.54psi

Still, judging from the pics, anyone know why im running this much???

[justin911]

do you have a 3" exhaust ??

cause if you do your boost will change from 7-9psi in a manual r33 (dunno bout auto?) evan if you dont have a boost controller installed.

also the bolt in the pipe in your top pic is fine.. its just blocking her off..

if you take the hose that connects to the top thingy on the stock boost solenoid in your pic, and block that off with a bolt, you can get rid of the stock solenoid alltogether... if i recall correctly

[govich]

Im not complaining about the power, but driving around on this much boost constantly uses ALOT of petrol...

It's far easier to control your fuel consumption with your right foot. You'll have to do it with less boost too.

1 Bar = 770mmHG

750.

[mad082]

the bit that was blocked up was the dual stage solenoid that it comes out of the factory with.

the boost you were running was about 10-11psi, which is still safe.

by removing the controller and running it just off the wastegate it would've been running a bit over 5psi. i wouldn't go off the stock gauge too much. i run 14psi and after about 12psi my stock gauge doesn't really move much. i would get an aftermarket gauge to see exactly what you are running.

[Lazy-Bastard]

Running the line from the IC piping directly to the Wastegate actuator means that whatever the actuator spring is rated at, that is how much boost you are running.

I think R32 actuators have a 10psi spring, but not sure about R33's

Why not just re-install the bleed valve and turn the boost down a bit. That particular bleeder is quite highly regarded as far as bleed valves go....see here http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=73375

[R33silverS2]

I have overboosting problems as well after i added my front mount and 3" turbo back exhaust. Mainly just with the second stage. In first stage i.e <4600 the car runs about 6 - 7 psi then in the second stage it runs as high as about 13 which is causing me problems with overfuelling etc.

Rather than blocking off one of the vac lines on the standard solenoid, can i just unplug the solenoid via the black snap fit clip? I.e to run with out the solenoid opening and creating the higher boost...

[sky017]

i was a bit confused with the stock boost gauge at first too . looked closer after a while to realise its in bar not psi .

im running simple mods at the moment , turbo back exhaust , pod - and i installed a boost gauge the other night , to see that it picks up to 10 psi . im installing a fmic this weekend , so maybe a bit more

[R33silverS2]

its actually in mmhg * 100 where +7 is roughly 1 bar or around 14 psi

[mad082]

I have overboosting problems as well after i added my front mount and 3" turbo back exhaust. Mainly just with the second stage. In first stage i.e <4600 the car runs about 6 - 7 psi then in the second stage it runs as high as about 13 which is causing me problems with overfuelling etc.

where do you get the boost pressure reading from for the wastegate now that you put the front mount on? if it from the plenum (like from the bov hose) then that is the cause of the spiking. get the old cooler pipe you removed and cut the nipple off. then take you stock cooler pipe off that runs from the turbo to the cooler and get the nipple welded in there. that should sort out the spiking problem. it did for me. i was spiking up to 14psi (from 11) before i moved the pressure source.

[R33silverS2]

where do you get the boost pressure reading from for the wastegate now that you put the front mount on? if it from the plenum (like from the bov hose) then that is the cause of the spiking. get the old cooler pipe you removed and cut the nipple off. then take you stock cooler pipe off that runs from the turbo to the cooler and get the nipple welded in there. that should sort out the spiking problem. it did for me. i was spiking up to 14psi (from 11) before i moved the pressure source.

Yeh thats where it comes from, it gets tee'd from the the bov hose going to the plenum cos the cooler did not have a nipple to attach to. thats sounds exactly like my problem, some nights its a high as 14 and all it does is scare the sh#t out of me not cos its going any faster but cos i'm worried about the blades flying off the shaft... thanks for the advice i will change it.