Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Took my car in for a pedders safety check today.

Front right shock is leaking and completely empty, wasnt a nice drive there

Radius bushes and bump stops on both sides broken :yes:

Got quoted at $947 to get it all fixed :laugh:

On top of that, my clutch squeaks and my A/C compresser hasnt got power

shudve got an nrma inspection lol.

Anyone know where i could get a better price? Or should i just take this opportunity and pick up a set of coilovers?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142213-just-my-luck/
Share on other sites

id have a look at coilovers or even better SK's group buy on bilstein shocks/springs.

for $947 u mite as well get way better handling ones for a few extra hundred.

i assume theyre gna replace ur shocks with pedders ones?.

also try wd40 on the clutch pedal where it squeaks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142213-just-my-luck/#findComment-2648080
Share on other sites

Even if you take the SK deal you will still need to get them fitted as well as getting the bushes and bumpstops done. You will also need front and rear wheel alignments from the sound of it. I assume the pedders quote included 2 front shocks.

Get a quote from them to include shocks all round and slightly lowered springs - you may be surprised at how little extra it costs.

They generally know Skylines and guarantee their work, which can save in the long run.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142213-just-my-luck/#findComment-2648191
Share on other sites

Thanks for the input guys.

I was looking into getting coilovers eventually anyway, i just dont have the funds to back it at the moment

I called the dealership i bought the car from and gave them an earfull so theyre gonna have a look at it :laugh:

hopefully wont cost me a thing if i have my way.

I called one of the guys on here that was selling parts from his wreck n he wanted $450 for the front set of Tein coilovers. but then if i was going to change the front id want to do the back as well so yeh.

ahhh why couldnt i be rich :yes:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142213-just-my-luck/#findComment-2648221
Share on other sites

Well, as they always say, don't spend all of your money on your car. save some for repairs. This is especially so when buying something old like an r32

PS: As said above, sydneykid's coilovers are good, but will cost you more than the 900 odd.

If you're short on cash, maybe buy a set of stock suspensions and bung them in. keep in mind, they'll probably be in similar condition. Also, it'll still cost you the install labour, so it might be worth doing it right the first time.

Clutch squeek - mine does it too. it's not an issue really.

AC - well, yeah...

Edited by MANWHORE
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142213-just-my-luck/#findComment-2648859
Share on other sites

DON'T be tempted by second hand coil overs. I've been bitten before myself. If you're going to bother spending money at all, do it right the first time. Worst case scenario, grab a set of decent shocks and some lowered springs. I bought KYB sports shocks and Lovells springs for my old car and it cost me about $650.

There's many options if you save up about $1k.. don't be too disheartened, at least if you fix it properly this time you won't have to worry about it again.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142213-just-my-luck/#findComment-2648926
Share on other sites

Yeh ive been calling around to a few wreckers, and suspension places.

theyre all offering roughly the same prices.

The last thing i want to get is used anything coz im pretty sure id just run into the same problem again later down the track.

Id really love to get coilovers but right now i just want to get the car back on the road.

The more i drive it, the worse its gonna get so ive resigned to leaving it sitting in the driveway (such a waste of good skyline)

Decent shocks and springs would probably do the job anyway seeing as i'm not really planning on taking it down to the track but then again who knows

I found the problem with my A/C it was just a blown fuse :P silly me. Gotta love this forum, found a fusebox diagram and all.

:thumbs up: SAU+posters

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142213-just-my-luck/#findComment-2650045
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sag as in the windows start to slowly open themselves, or they're just slow to go up/down with engine off?
    • It looks like it needs a big worm gear drive on it to control the rotating, not a few sloppy pins!
    • As Duncan said, first there was OBD, which few cars used, then came OBD2.   Now an interesting point, OBD2 isn't even for what you want to do. OBD2 is for emissions testing. There is some sensor data on OBD2, but it's up to the manufacturer what they're putting on it. Most scan tools operate on UDS, which like OBD2 is a standard built on-top of CAN. UDS specifies how to structure a message, what very limited things mean such as "read memory address" but it does not specify what is stored in which memory address, that is all up to the manufacturer. You either a scan tool compatible with that vehicle, or to know how to reverse engineer all the data, which can take a VERY long time and a lot of vehicles to get it right. Oh and then the manufacturer does a firmware update and changes what's where... Ask me how I know that as fact Oh, and by the time you've got the scan tool that supports all the manufacturers stuff, well, you're back at "But a consult cable and the Nissan software" The main difference being most manufacturers software these days works with the same hardware readers, as the readers are built to support J2534 which is another standard for how the PC communicates with the tool to make it do specific things on the car...
    • Rotisserie is fully assembled apart from centre connector which obviously isn't required until the car is on it. It packs away fairly neatly and doesn't take up too much room. (Now that I actually have some room after my clean up!) Overall very happy with the quality of it.  Assembly was a piece of piss.  The only thing I didn't like was that the pins that lock the rotation lock wheels in place were a bit of a dick in a bucket scenario. It allowed the arms to rotate a significant amount even when locked in place.  To fix that i measured up the hole and went and grabbed a couple of 18mm fully threaded bolts and a thread tap to suit. I ran the tap through top and bottom so it was threaded both ends.  Then just threaded the bolt through both sides.  It has made a massive difference which hopefully you can tell in the before and after video how much difference it made. 20250207_161431.mp4   20250207_161431.mp4 Hopefully back working on the car over the next few weeks.   20250207_162801.mp4
    • I think my main complaint with your idea is that there is a veneer of idealism spread across it. You want the simple numbers to make it easier, but all they will do is make it easier for someone to come to the wrong conclusion because the fine details will kick them in the nuts. As it is right now, the tiny bit of arithmetic is NOT the obstacle to understanding what will fit and what will not fit. The reality of trying it is what determines whether it will fit. If you had a "standard rule" that R34 GTT guards have that magic 100mm space from the hub face to whichever side you were worried about, and someone said "excellent, this wheel is only 98mm in that direction, I'll just go spend $4k on them and jam them on my sick ride".....they would just as likely find out that the "standard rule" is not true because the rear subframe is offset to one side by a fairly typical (but variable) 8mm on their car and they only have 92mm on one side and 108 on the other.
×
×
  • Create New...