Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi there guys, just changed the wheels of my skyline and found that the disc rotors r pretty rusty and the brake looks pretty ugly.. was thinking of changing the brakes.. would the disc rotors be included (like in a package) when I change it or it needs to be changed seperately

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142229-changing-brakes/
Share on other sites

How about just drive the car. A normal application of the brakes will ordinarily remove surface rust (unless the rotors have been soaking in water for months).

I find often my rotors develop a light rust layer, particulary after the car gets a bath, or if it has rained.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142229-changing-brakes/#findComment-2658011
Share on other sites

Light surface rust, as mentioned, is typical on rotors, one or two applications of the brake pedal (Not even hard) will remove it very quickly.

The time when you need to put in new pads/rotors is when the pads wear down that they need replacing (No material left), usually get the rotors machined at this point, unless there is a chunk missing from them, or cracks are apparent, at which point, new ones can be bought and fitted.

Each time you change your pads, it is worthwhile having your rotors machined at basically ANY brake shop.

There is no use fitting new rotors, to old pads, nor new pads to old rotors, as they will chew each other out worse.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142229-changing-brakes/#findComment-2659945
Share on other sites

hi there guys, just changed the wheels of my skyline and found that the disc rotors r pretty rusty and the brake looks pretty ugly.. was thinking of changing the brakes.. would the disc rotors be included (like in a package) when I change it or it needs to be changed seperately

Evil,

A good set of pads will cost maybe $200-250, rotors more like $500. I wouldnt replace the rotors unless they're under spec or cracked. IIRC spec is 28mm minimum for R33's (whats a R34 GT-4? do you mean R32 GTS-4 or R34 GT-T?).

I only machine if they're warped or if i accidentally trash a set of pads at the track and go metal to metal ;-) (machining cost me $10 but i removed the rotors myself). If you dont like the rust got nuts with some wet n dry sandpaper. I dont bother machining when i change pads, i just use wet n dry to remove the old pad material from the rotor before i put the new pads on.

HTH,

Kot

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142229-changing-brakes/#findComment-2660759
Share on other sites

Evil,

A good set of pads will cost maybe $200-250, rotors more like $500. I wouldnt replace the rotors unless they're under spec or cracked. IIRC spec is 28mm minimum for R33's (whats a R34 GT-4? do you mean R32 GTS-4 or R34 GT-T?).

I only machine if they're warped or if i accidentally trash a set of pads at the track and go metal to metal ;-) (machining cost me $10 but i removed the rotors myself). If you dont like the rust got nuts with some wet n dry sandpaper. I dont bother machining when i change pads, i just use wet n dry to remove the old pad material from the rotor before i put the new pads on.

HTH,

Kot

hi there the rust on the rotors are no more, but the rust on the small circle around the rotors is still there and i that was what i really wanna get rid off.. i'll post a picture tomorrow, cuz it's too dark outside for a proper photoshoot =)

a R34 GT-4 is a non turbo skyline running on 4wd.. like a wrx? so i can't get like a deep dish at the rear.

so next time my pads wear out, i'll just get it changed at the brake shop and get them to machine it for me at the same time? but how do you get all 4 rotors out? what's your car standing on then?

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142229-changing-brakes/#findComment-2660913
Share on other sites

Hi there.. attached are photos of the area of the rotor where there are rust.. and which i would like to get rid of.. if i get the rotors machined, would this area be covered?

thanks

No that part does not get touched. Only the face that is touched by the pads gets machined.

What works easy is simply get a can of black VHT paint, place a rag over the caliper and spray that area (the hat) turn the disc around by hand as you do. If a little bit of overspray gets on the disc it really doesn't matter. As soon as you drive the car the pads will take it off the very second you touch the brake. Ends up looking perfect and the high temp paint seems to hold up ok (looks better than rust anyhow)

I used to do this every so often when changing wheels or pads and it keeps them looking good at takes just a few seconds.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142229-changing-brakes/#findComment-2664566
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeh... literally every time i jump on a forum, see an instagram post or see an engine bay at a car show, i get an idea and add it to my 'to do' list. So what started off as, hey can u just make a couple of intake hard pipes because my dumbass bought the wrong apexi kit, blew out into a 2 week job including braided brake lines & custom bash kit for the front lip haha.  Getting Luke from A4E engineering to make a full custom exhaust with a controllable aes dump valve so i can actually switch between quiet and loud, because right now its just loud all day every day. Then after that go and get the tune redone flex e85 & 98 as i get bugger all milage from e85, makes going for longer drivers difficult
    • Car looks clean as. You ended up getting quite a bit done 😂  So what's the plan for the exhaust? 
    • The only Neo rods that were any different to any other RB25 rods were the DET ones, and they were the same as RB26. Here is a Neo DET rod. O5U part number visible. Here is a post in a thread here on SAU with evidence from someone who has done this before. There are photos in the thread of normal RB25 rods.  
    • Sure, but why assume that will be the case forever? And why assume you'll be able to do an oil change to swap back to a stock drain bolt before that happens? And does it even matter when I change the oil at fairly short intervals? Life can be funny sometimes and unexpected things can happen. Like breaking a collarbone so you can't do any work on your car for a few months but the oil change is due so you have to take it to somewhere and hope they don't do something stupid like stacking the new drain plug washer on top of the old one.
    • Do u know how to identify the rods are rb25 or neo ones? Can u look into the pics and tell me is they de or de neo ones. Its confusing becoz my motor has de neo head but block is 25de 75t, so really confusing me about rods, crank.
×
×
  • Create New...