Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey ppls

for the last few months when my cars idling on a cold start it sits at like 600rpm.. if you start to drive or just touch the throttle it revs fine but then drops to about 300-400 then back to 600. after about 2 mins when the temp gauge has moved up about half a cm its fine and the revs sit on 750rpm or so and dont bounce around.

hmm come to think of it when the car is cold shouldnt it sit on like 1000-1200rpm or something higher like that ? anyways i had the bouncing idle problem (but when the car was warm, not cold) a while ago and i cleaned the aac valve and that fixed that up, but im not to sure what to try clean now.. ? I was searching and theres some cold start valve or something ?? where abouts is that ?? is that the same as the air regulator ?? i had a look in the workshop manual, i couldnt see it on my actual car though.. anyone got any pics or any other ideas what it might be ??

thanks :whistling:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142270-revs-bounce-on-cold-start/
Share on other sites

i started the car just now to have a look. I drove about an hour ago so the car is still hot, but the needle is about 0.8cm above the bottom and the pfc rekons its about 63degrees. The middle which it always sits on after about 5 mins of driving is about 84..85 degrees so i think thats working fine like it always has.

but ya the idle is fine now cause the car is already warmed up a little bit..

Have you had the PFC programmed / tuned for "cold start"? Maybe it needs a bit more fuel or timing when it's cold.

BTW, I don't see anything in your initial post that mentions you have a PFC - such information would be most useful.

I've got the same sorta problem, wheres acc valve, u said before...

"a while ago and i cleaned the aac valve and that fixed that up"?

I also have the pfc but even when my car warms up i still got the problem not really bouncing but drops low and sometimes stalls, but if i ease the clutch in its ok as apose to "stomping it in" when im rolling up to lights, driveways etc but the revs are sometimes ok and sometimes low...

ya i found the little barstard the other day.. looks impossible to get out though, all i can see is like 1 bolt :P

it could be the iac valve. the aac valve is what always gets cleaned. the iac is down under the intake plenum. (i think thats why not many people clean it) from what i know of it, it controls the idle air for cold start.
it could be the iac valve. the aac valve is what always gets cleaned. the iac is down under the intake plenum. (i think thats why not many people clean it) from what i know of it, it controls the idle air for cold start.

Yeah does sound like AAC Valve, it bleeds more air into the secondary air system to bring up the revs when cold. Have to get it apart and clean it out. Also inspect the tension of the spring.

You can't (and don't need to) clean the IAC (Cold Start Air) valve. It is not operated by a servo-motor, as the AAC (Auxilliary Air Control) valve is. It is a simple bi-metallic strip, heated by electric current - as it warms up, it causes a plate to cover the air bleed hole.

If it has any sort of problem, it may be that it is not fully uncovering the hole when it cools.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi All, I'm based in Sydney and want to get hold of 4 stock R34 GTT wheel caps as pictured. Cheers
    • Haha im flattered! Although my poor boat is collecting dust in the garage, as it hasn’t been driven in like 6 months. I forgot the to put the trickle charger on too, so the battery is likely toast now.. I have the frenchys kit. It is fantastic. My only gripe was that the hard lines from the firewall needed some tweaking, however, this was mainly due to my specific turbo and dump combo. The weight and size packaging is much nicer too. I think I have some pics on my build thread somewhere.. my justification for the kit was more “why not” I had gone to the trouble to modernise just about every other part of the car..
    • Actually, ethanol has probably never been cheaper, on a tax free basis, than petrol. With fuel excise being what it is, and only being levied on the hydocarbon component, not the ethanol component, and ethanol for non-drinking purposes not being subject to liquor excise - E85 was cheaper, but not because the combustible liquid itself was particularly cheaper.
    • Maybe? If changing the cat to a higher flowing cat, caused the turbo to spool more quickly, and those areas of the map had not been tuned for the boost level it is now seeing, then yes you would need a re-tune. How dangerous it is running without the updated tune would depend on how far out the tune is with the now higher boost levels, how the engine protection has been setup, is the ECU compensating with a wideband sensor, is the boost control closed loop blah blah million other things... But yeah having said that, I wouldn't be surprised if changing out the cat for a high flow, in say a full 3" exhaust, made no noticeable difference at all. 
    • Ah yep. I asked a auto electrician about getting a cheap rebuilt alternator vs a new one. He also said he used to it back in the day but it ended up costing similar to what a new one would and recommended getting a new one,.
×
×
  • Create New...