Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

some one please help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

ive got no power at all......

no ignition lights.

no head lights.

no interior

central locking not even working. ect ect.

the starter motor isnt even clicking.

it seems like a totally flat battery, but i tried jump starting it and still got nothing. checked the conections. checked all the fuses in the boot, in the cabin, and also in the engine bay but all fuses are ok including the main fuse in the boot.

anyone got any ideas????????

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/14228-my-r33-is-dead/
Share on other sites

The other battery i tried is excellent i use it in my other car no probs. ive checked all the fuses including the main fuse.

Gloof i do have an immobiliser, if this is at fault could this stop power to everything though?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/14228-my-r33-is-dead/#findComment-286913
Share on other sites

i found the problem..............

i must have left the interior light on, the night before it died which ment the battery was totally dead. then in the morning i had nothing tried to jump start it after checking all the fuses and it wouldn't even jump start so i continued asuming the problem was in the car...........

later with the multimeter in my hands i desided to check the jumper leads i was using for continuity. and to my surprise it turns out they where stuffed for some reason they whern't carrying the current??????? they where brand new antizap leads???????

so i tried a different older pair of jumper leads and it started...

end of drama....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/14228-my-r33-is-dead/#findComment-288111
Share on other sites

cheap jumper leads are worth their weight in packing foam. :D the el cheapo chinese ones have the cable crimped onto the ends through the insulation and generaly are open circuit. either buy decent leads or cut the clamps off, bare back the jumper cables and solder them onto the clamps.

usually even if they do make contact the actual wire is so small theyb wont pass enough current to start a car without glowing red hot and melting all the insulation off them :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/14228-my-r33-is-dead/#findComment-288246
Share on other sites

Al

i know i should have just replaced it (now)

but i thought i had a serious prob. any way my mistake.

secoh

the jumperleads i was using where (looked) like very good quality. they are the anti zap ones 400amp from a good spare parts dealer. must have just been a dud set.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/14228-my-r33-is-dead/#findComment-291420
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There are several aftermarket options available, from not-too-painful moneyhttps://justjap.com/collections/driveshafts-bearings/products/d-max-reinforced-replacement-rear-driveshaft-set-fits-nissan-s13-s14-s15-r32-r33-r34-c35 and  https://justjap.com/products/crank-motorsport-billet-rear-axles-fits-nissan-skyline-r33-gts-t-r34-gt-t?srsltid=AfmBOorQk4xkGUa98kO7v2ePLUiNt-HRrM2AwWNw9mbSIVE1ujBVwY__, all the way up to The Driveshaft Shop https://driveshaftshop.com/skyline-cv-axles/
    • Yeah based on old XRC5964S specs, it looks to be roughly GTX3576R sized? But this 5964S compressor will flow 90lb airflow somewhat similar to the compressors in both the GTX3584RS or G35-1050.. I fully expected the 0.64 rear A/R to choke up top - seems way too small from typical convention - but these are seemingly beneficial over the prior 0.82 results.. Be interesting to see if he comments on the EFR question in that thread - he mentioned in a prior video that BW EFR's were the "cats pajamas 10 years ago", but by the sounds of things all his kits have been using Xona for quite a while now.
    • Yeah it’s still got the oem manual gearbox and clutch, only kinda mods are a blow off valve, coil overs, and a aftermarket intercooler. Also had it for about 2 months now with a lovely midnight purple paint on it.
    • Yeeeppp, been following a lot of the testing on the latest Xona stuff and there are some mental results.  He also went over 1000hp @ 4 hubs on his Mainline with a XRE6364S (63mm) which was also well into the 20psi range before 4000rpm on a 2.5. Crazy stuff. Fwiw the XRE5964S is basically the modern equivalent of their old HTA3582 - would drive nicely enough on an RB25 or 26, but proven capable of a huge amount of power if you want to spicy with rpm tho even at sane boost levels will make stout numbers 
    • The axels in my R33 seem tired, and have a bit of play in them. I cannot find any new of course, not interested in buying used, but I am looking to see if anyone can identify some cross compatible axles. In the states I have seen suggested for S chassis the J30 axles, however for the skyline (as best I can tell) the lengths are about an inch off (2.5cm) on both sides. R33 my measure L 22" R 24.5" GPT L 22.5" 24.25" J30 L 23.5" 25.5"  so shaft length is probably an inch wider. Not sure if someone has another still remanufactured option besides the J30. I figured worst case I can buy a pair tear them down and swap the center shaft. My other option was reaching out to GSP to see if they cannot piece together a set, since the axle stubs are still manufactured, I wouldn't think it be that hard to find a shaft or make a shaft work. 
×
×
  • Create New...