Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Think you'll find it's not very funny at all... car fell off a hoist at a mate's work (very reputable Manufacturer's workshop) and it crushed the technician working on it, almost ending his life.

Think you'll find it's not very funny at all... car fell off a hoist at a mate's work (very reputable Manufacturer's workshop) and it crushed the technician working on it, almost ending his life.

it was funny coz it was after hours, and they left the car on the hoist over nite with the front wheels off and a tray full of shit. i think it was a powercore car or something....

and this was at a reputable toyota dealership too...

I think it's funny, because personally, i don't work for a workshop and never have, but it's pretty common sense how to hoist a car.

Nissan recommends the jacking points firstly, because they are solid and won't crush. Secondly, because they spread the weight reasaonbly evenly between all four 4 points.

i can see how that would happen. they did load it by the jack points by the looks of it, but the lotus is a rear engined car, and they obviously unloaded enough weight off the front to let it flip.

the weight distribution of an elise is about 60% rear 40% front. and since they only weigh 840kg, once you take the front wheels off you have removed a fair bit of the front weight. and also since they have a short wheel base (over 30cm shorter than an r32, and over 40cm shorter than an r33) that cmakes them easier to flip in that sort of situation too.

its cause its a mid engines car, hoists are balanced for normal cars. if they out it in facing the other way, or just moved the car more forward between the poles it wouldnt have fallen

uhh no

notice how on the lotus elise, the front wheels are removed, and the 350z the back wheels are removed

im guessing these mechanics dont quite grasp the basic concepts of gravity

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
    • Thanks Paul I reached out to Autotainment but they no longer work on JDM cars as the guy who used to do the work moved on and is no longer doing that kind of work. I am talking with Level Up Audio though.
×
×
  • Create New...