Can Gtr 6 Itb's Be Adapted To Suit L24e?

[Factory 5]

HI all,

Im wondering if the 6 ITB's from a RB26 (?) can be fitted to suit a L24e, as i think it would be a challenge and rewarding upgrade.

I will probably use a large plenum th house 6 'trumpets' and an intake with the AFM at the filter end...

Dont know if the stock computer could handle it but....

Post away!

[Ghostrider]

NO!

[Ghostrider]

HI all,

Im wondering if the 6 ITB's from a RB26 (?) can be fitted to suit a L24e, as i think it would be a challenge and rewarding upgrade.

I will probably use a large plenum th house 6 'trumpets' and an intake with the AFM at the filter end...

Dont know if the stock computer could handle it but....

Post away!

The RB26 intake system fits on an RB26 head ONLY! similarly the GTiR quad throttle body doesn't fit on an inline (RWD) SR20.

Nissan made them that way or a reason I suppose.

You want to do this on the cheap, middle of the road or cost you a bomb???????

Only motor easy install into an MR30 is the L24E out of the MR30, everything else needs some amount of engineering and unless you have a workshop at your disposal, it's all going to cost lotsa dollars.

Try doing some research like most of us have done before you before asking crazy questions. You tend to learn more that way.

Cheers, D

[nixcars]

No they wont but these will...

[Ghostrider]

No they wont but these will...

And cost more than his car

[Factory 5]

I didnt think it would be a good idea....

I just was thinking of options to increase the power in the lower revs...

I am hopeing to keep this L24e because it has such low km, and is amazingly smooth... ( i like the EFI too, not fussed on carbies)

I have stacks of questions, most which are probably pointless...

Can anyone direct me to a thread or some articles on modifying the L24e? the search feature isnt that helpful...

Are there many hotted-up L24e's around?

sorry to sound like such a noob

[sh@un]

hmmm- nice intake trumpets

[Ghostrider]

I didnt think it would be a good idea....

I just was thinking of options to increase the power in the lower revs...

I am hopeing to keep this L24e because it has such low km, and is amazingly smooth... ( i like the EFI too, not fussed on carbies)

I have stacks of questions, most which are probably pointless...

Can anyone direct me to a thread or some articles on modifying the L24e? the search feature isnt that helpful...

Are there many hotted-up L24e's around?

sorry to sound like such a noob

Try to find yourself an N42 head (early 280ZX) and get the head worked over by someone GOOD! change the cam, put probably 280ZX injectors, decent set of extractors and free flowing exhaust should up the anti a bit, but your really only going to gain maybe 10Kw.

If you want to keep the L24E and turbo it, you need to find an L20ET exhaust manifold, probably a T03 off an FJ20DET and a piggy back ECU to control the boost & fuel. This will get you about 140Kw on 10psi, considering when stock it has 93.4Kw. The late model L24E's were good to turbo, can't put big boost into them as the static compression is over 8.5:1, but you can get good gains from staying under 10psi and be safe and reliable.

If you do it smart and use a plumback BOV know one will know what you have until it's probably to late.

Cheers, D

[SteveL]

Actually they will. GTR TB's are 45mm and the butterfly spacing is almost identical to DCOE weber/mikuni/dellorto. Of course the mount bolts are different, but 'all' that is needed is an adaptor plate to a triple carb manifold similar to the one shown in the photo below, plus some mucking around with linkages. Anything can be done if you have access to the equipment.....(but I'm not saying it would be cheap if you don't)

Oh and BTW, interesting to see old ideas being recycled. I've had a custom injection manifold (my manufacture) almost identical to the one shown in your photograph on my Z for the best part of 15 years with Motec control. There are far cheaper ways to do the TB's than those custom jobs, plus its better to mount the injectors at the mouth of the trumpets.

No they wont but these will...

[Factory 5]

I thought an adaptor plate would do it, thanks buddy!

Would there be a noticeable increase in performance?

I would rather spend a few hundred dollars on a N/A set up than a half arsed turbo...

I guess it comes down to dollars, and the tuning of a good ECU (or piggyback)

I think I saw a gtr setup for $150 a few weeks ago... apparently its one of the first things to go on big HP engines...

Th first thing I am going to fo is get the injectors cleaned, new sparkplugs and leads, and look for a good head to port out... ANd then we come to the intake system! Are those twin pipes that cross the radiator beneficial at all? should i duct a shorter system into the bumper?

[Ghostrider]

I thought an adaptor plate would do it, thanks buddy!

Would there be a noticeable increase in performance?

I would rather spend a few hundred dollars on a N/A set up than a half arsed turbo...

I guess it comes down to dollars, and the tuning of a good ECU (or piggyback)

I think I saw a gtr setup for $150 a few weeks ago... apparently its one of the first things to go on big HP engines...

Th first thing I am going to fo is get the injectors cleaned, new sparkplugs and leads, and look for a good head to port out... ANd then we come to the intake system! Are those twin pipes that cross the radiator beneficial at all? should i duct a shorter system into the bumper?

A few hundred dollars on a n/a set up?????

My original project started with the idea of getting 300+ HP to the wheels in an n/a RB25 or 26/30DE.

The number of research hours that went into this original project was staggering.

Our end theoretical result, after many long hours of computer calculations went to about this:

RB26 Head & Inlet system, RB30E block, RB26 crank, custom carello rods, forged pistons, 330/340 degree duration cams, a staggering 14.5:1 compression and to acheive the objective the engine had to rev to just under 15000 rpm.

This project was debated on SDU for weeks on end and some of the brightest engine people I know were involved, just so that you know it wasn't just some hair brained scheme.

The RB26 crank was the chosen option because the RB30 has non balance related harmonics problems at 7500 and continued over revving would result in a bent crank. And doing a rebuild after every run didn't impress me at all.

After all the sums were done, the estimated dollars to acheive this goal was in excess of $50000.00 and it wouldn't idle under 3000rpm, so in 4th gear at idle it would be cryuising along at about 100kph. I'm sure our local law enforcement officers would have been impressed.

The moral of the story is this, NO HP IS JUST A FEW HUNDRED DOLLARS.

A good ECU, motec, EMS, WOLF etc etc is going to cost about $1500.00 plus the cost of wiring @ $70 per hour.

Port & polish a head, another $3-500.00

An adaptor plate for the 6 TB's ..... the skies the limit on that, maybe you should enquire about it at a machine shop.

A GTR setup for $150, what was wrong with it, is what I would be asking myself?

A new billet camshaft from Camtech was quoted to me at $350.00

Just how much money do you have to sink into this project? This is what you have to consider before anything can be researched and after you get the power increase you want, along comes bigger brakes, better suspension etc etc etc. A new sway bar from Whiteline is about $260.00, Koni's all round with King Springs and away goes a grand, so just in suspension upgrades you have spent over $1200.00 and the motor is yet to come.

Cheers, D

[Blue Dynamite]

A few hundred dollars on a n/a set up?????

My original project started with the idea of getting 300+ HP to the wheels in an n/a RB25 or 26/30DE.

The number of research hours that went into this original project was staggering.

Our end theoretical result, after many long hours of computer calculations went to about this:

RB26 Head & Inlet system, RB30E block, RB26 crank, custom carello rods, forged pistons, 330/340 degree duration cams, a staggering 14.5:1 compression and to acheive the objective the engine had to rev to just under 15000 rpm.

This project was debated on SDU for weeks on end and some of the brightest engine people I know were involved, just so that you know it wasn't just some hair brained scheme.

The RB26 crank was the chosen option because the RB30 has non balance related harmonics problems at 7500 and continued over revving would result in a bent crank. And doing a rebuild after every run didn't impress me at all.

After all the sums were done, the estimated dollars to acheive this goal was in excess of $50000.00 and it wouldn't idle under 3000rpm, so in 4th gear at idle it would be cryuising along at about 100kph. I'm sure our local law enforcement officers would have been impressed.

The moral of the story is this, NO HP IS JUST A FEW HUNDRED DOLLARS.

All that for just over 300rwhp??? You'd be looking at a hell of allot more power than that with an RB26dett in on an rb30 block, especially with that much attention to detail... I honestly doubt I'd know what I'm talking about as much as people like you when it comes to engines and realistic power outputs but shouldn't you be able to get a good 300rwhp out of a stock rb26dett after changing a few things like the turbos and the boost level etc?

I'm looking at using an rb20det redtop NICS engine in my mr30 skyline and we expect about an approximate 150rwhp straight up out of that and the engine is costing me about $500 total with other gear like the radiator, exhaust down to the catback minus the g/b.

But I guess knowing someone who knows their shit is also a great help when doing this stuff up close. That and sneaking in on cheap deals, -though i should probably be going with a different RB, lol.

[Ghostrider]

All that for just over 300rwhp??? You'd be looking at a hell of allot more power than that with an RB26dett in on an rb30 block, especially with that much attention to detail... I honestly doubt I'd know what I'm talking about as much as people like you when it comes to engines and realistic power outputs but shouldn't you be able to get a good 300rwhp out of a stock rb26dett after changing a few things like the turbos and the boost level etc?

I'm looking at using an rb20det redtop NICS engine in my mr30 skyline and we expect about an approximate 150rwhp straight up out of that and the engine is costing me about $500 total with other gear like the radiator, exhaust down to the catback minus the g/b.

But I guess knowing someone who knows their shit is also a great help when doing this stuff up close. That and sneaking in on cheap deals, -though i should probably be going with a different RB, lol.

Normally Aspirated was our plan. Non Turbo!

I am going to have more than 300rwhp from a turbo L series, which is the point I was making.

And at the end of the day, about 300rwhp is aqll you can use, can't get much more to the ground without masses of wheel spin all the time.

[Blue Dynamite]

Ahh yep, sorry, it was me who made the mistake here.

What was that you said about whiteline swaybars? I picked some up recently for $165 for the pair, but the holes on it are a bit big for the swaybar link bolts I've got. The holes in the standard r30 swaybars are about 10mm where as these ones are 15mm for the front and 13mm for the back.

Although the other day my friend and I collected some swaybar links from an R31 and there was a gap there also.

Hate to do the distracting here but this is a little quiery I've got that I'm sorta procraztinating over.

[hrd-hr30]

Ahh yep, sorry, it was me who made the mistake here.

What was that you said about whiteline swaybars? I picked some up recently for $165 for the pair, but the holes on it are a bit big for the swaybar link bolts I've got. The holes in the standard r30 swaybars are about 10mm where as these ones are 15mm for the front and 13mm for the back.

Although the other day my friend and I collected some swaybar links from an R31 and there was a gap there also.

Hate to do the distracting here but this is a little quiery I've got that I'm sorta procraztinating over.

the bushes are supposed to go into the holes in the sway bar as well... if the raised step on your bushes are gone, get some new ones. urethane bushes will also effectively stiffen the bar up a bit too.

[Ghostrider]

What was that you said about whiteline swaybars? I picked some up recently for $165 for the pair, but the holes on it are a bit big for the swaybar link bolts I've got. The holes in the standard r30 swaybars are about 10mm where as these ones are 15mm for the front and 13mm for the back.

Although the other day my friend and I collected some swaybar links from an R31 and there was a gap there also.

Hate to do the distracting here but this is a little quiery I've got that I'm sorta procraztinating over.

What diameter did you get for $165/pair? Front ??? & Rear ???

I'm not a huge fan of Whiteline, but they will make anything you ask for, but you are on your own if something breaks due to your poor design order. They warranty the bar, but not the end result.

And I bought NEW! not second hand.

Cheers, D