Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 105
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Don't worry about the big ends... Unless you want big power (300rwkw plus), the stock ones will handle the job fine... Just make sure there's plenty of oil pressure - and don't use a shit oil.

As far as rod bolts go - Tomei are the best mob to get em off... Unfortunately all of ARP's stuff is in imperial measurements, and you'll want metric :)

matt

Originally posted by Sydneykid

Put in some nismo big end bearings, and some arp bolts while your in there...and if you really wanna load on the power, get the block o-ring as well....hell, even do the conrods while your in there....

Pistons might not be the first thing to go flying while ya turn up the boost mate... if ya wanna account for one thing, be prepared for something else to happen

Son of Sydneykid

oh - btw inasnt - my car's got forgies in it... They were cosworth blanks & were HPC'd to boot. The rods are RB30 stockies that were shot peened, nitrided and all the rest of it...

It really comes down to what you want to use your car for... if it's just going to be a quick streeter, get a metal head gasket to lower the compression some, stick some cams in it, and stick a T04e/GT3040/T60/(insert turbo of choice) and you'll get 250 on pump gas without any problems. Spend your money on a decent radiator and oil cooler. Cool inlet temps and cool oil and you shouldn't have any dramas. Run it with a powerfc and as soon as you see knock, take your foot off the throttle and you'll be right.

Only reason I did my motor is because I wanted to have some fun at the track.

FYI - Stay away from trust/mitsubishi turbos... They're rubbish. Only after I had mine rebuilt was it any good.

matt

Originally posted by sidewaymambo

Hi, matt

...............................................

FYI - Stay away from trust/mitsubishi turbos... They're rubbish. Only after I had mine rebuilt was it any good.  

..............................................

Can you give us a bit more info on this..thanks.

I hate to say anything bad about any product... but since this is such a contentious issue and this guy is not the first the re-iterate this point...

Do a search for "Trust" in this forum. See what you get.

While other people complain about HKS turbo pricing, they rarely complain about build and design.

The disclaimer is that many people use Trust and are happy but that mustn't blind one to the people who have problems.

T.

Well - any of the TD series turbo's have piss poor thrust bearings which will give the minute you start flowing serious power through them... Mine let go at 14psi (on a trust TD07S). I've heard of other people having similar problems, and it was only after I had the bearing modified that it was reliable.

Secondly, as far as drivability goes, they don't know how to match compressor/exhaust housing or wheels. I've seen a T78 on a GTR make boost 1000rpm later than a Garrett equivalent of a T88 (a much larger turbo). A similar garrett turbo on my motor would make boost 1000rpm earlier.

If you look at how they balance a compressor wheel on a turbo, they just cut chunks out of the side of the wheel, rather than garretts practice of skimming metal of the back of the wheel. Dodgy...

Hence my post - trust turbo's are rubbish.

matt

No worrys :D The turbo in it now is a Hybrid T66 thingo... It's got a HKS T04-R front wheel, with a back cut t66 rear wheel.

Re: calder - I just came back from heathcote... Ran it up in full street trim and i'm very happy with the results :)

matt

Guest INASNT
Originally posted by matlowth

No worrys :D  The turbo in it now is a Hybrid T66 thingo... It's got a HKS T04-R front wheel, with a back cut t66 rear wheel.

Re: calder - I just came back from heathcote...  Ran it up in full street trim and i'm very happy with the results :)

matt

and the results were.......???

12.38 @ 123.45mph... That was run on my azenis st115's (not semi comps)...

60ft time was a shocking 2.35sec, and I couldn't stick the boot in till after I'd got into 3rd either :(

I had a set of nitto's to run on, but turns out the rims they were put on didn't fit under the back of my car, so I had to run in full street trim...

With those nitto's on the back I think I would have quite easily done a 11.6ish pass at 125-126mph... Oh well, there's always next time :P

matt

Cheers mate, I'm stoked with the times... I just wish those nitto's had have fitted... Although I guess it's still nice to have a time in my bag which is "full street trim"...

My final run for the night was going to be the quickest, but on the change into 4th the clutch decided to give up, so I had to pull out early... With a new clutch, and those nitto's, hopefully I'll see 11's on the next outing!

First run was a 13.1 @ 119mph, and all the rest were high 12's @ 121-123mph.

BTW - I can't praise the guys at heathcote enough! They even offered to help me fit the nitto's onto my normal rims to get me going - if anyone's keen on dragging - that's the place to go.

perhaps SAU should organise a drag event there?

matt

Yeah this is true - One of our guys had a clutch breakage, and as such had to get a tow truck home @ $250...

I had a trailer organised but it fell through (the car I'd organised to tow with only had a 1600kg limit didn't expect the trailer to be 500kg), so I was pretty much just hoping that nothing broke.

The thing is, you just have to go out there being positive, and if something bad does happen, worry about it then.

I had 7 or 8 runs on the night, and some of the other cars there had 10-14 runs. I had to pull out early because of the failing clutch, so you'd get plenty more chances to run than you would at calder that's for sure!

matt

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Very decent bit of kit. Definitely black it out I reckon.  
    • Because people who want that are buying euros. The people with the money to buy the aftermarket heads and blocks aren’t interested in efficiency or making -7 power, they’re making well over 1,000hp and pretty much only drive them at full throttle  best way to way make money is know your customer base and what they want and don’t spend money making things they don’t want. 
    • It's not, but it does feel like a bit of a missed opportunity regardless. For example, what if the cylinder head was redesigned to fit a GDI fuel system? It's worth like two full points of compression ratio when looking at modern GDI turbo vs PFI turbo. I'm pretty reliably surprised at how much less turbo it takes to make similar power out of a modern engine vs something like an RB26. Something with roughly the same dimensions as a -7 on an S55 is making absolutely silly power numbers compared to an RB26. I know there's a ton of power loss from things like high tension rings, high viscosity oil, clutch fan, AWD standby loss, etc but it's something like 700 whp in an F80 M3 vs 400 whp in an R33 GTR. The stock TF035HL4W turbos in an F80 M3 are really rather dinky little things and that's enough to get 400 whp at 18 psi. This just seems unwise no? I thought the general approach is if you aren't knock limited the MFB50 should be held constant through the RPM range. So more timing with RPM, but less timing with more cylinder filling. A VE-based table should accordingly inverse the VE curve of the engine.
    • I've seen tunes from big name workshops with cars making in excess of 700kW and one thing that stood out to me, is that noone is bothering with torque management. Everyone is throwing in as much timing as the motor can take for a pull. Sure that yields pretty numbers on a dyno, but it's not keeping these motors together for more than a few squirts down the straight without blowing coolant or head gaskets. If tuners, paid a bit more attention and took timing out in the mid range, managed boost a bit better, you'll probably see less motors grenading. Not to name names, or anything like that, but I've seen a tune, from a pretty wild GT-R from a big name tuner and I was but perplexed on the amount of timing jammed into it. You would have expected a quite a bit less timing at peak torque versus near the limiter, but there was literally 3 degrees of difference. Sure you want to make as much as possible throughout the RPM range, but why? At the expense of blowing motors? Anyhow I think we've gone off topic enough once again lol.
    • Because that’s not what any of them are building these heads or blocks for. It’s to hold over over 1000hp at the wheels without breaking and none of that stuff is required to make power 
×
×
  • Create New...