Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi there, I was just wondering whether I would need to change the car cigarette lighter to use my car charger for my ipod and phone. I just bought a new ipod car charger and it works with cig lighter slots in other cars but when i plug it into my skyline's slot, there's just no power.

Is there a difference in the cigarette lighter slots in japanese cars and local made cars? the cigarette lighter slot is working fine, the cigarette lighter gets red hot when i push it in, so what is the problem?

thank you

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142483-cigarette-lighter-slot/
Share on other sites

Hi there, I was just wondering whether I would need to change the car cigarette lighter to use my car charger for my ipod and phone. I just bought a new ipod car charger and it works with cig lighter slots in other cars but when i plug it into my skyline's slot, there's just no power.

Is there a difference in the cigarette lighter slots in japanese cars and local made cars? the cigarette lighter slot is working fine, the cigarette lighter gets red hot when i push it in, so what is the problem?

thank you

my cig lighter blew the sh*t out of my phone charger,it worked fine but did't like anything but the cig lighter,easy fix i just brought a $12 job from auto pro in there now it works fine.

my cig lighter blew the sh*t out of my phone charger,it worked fine but did't like anything but the cig lighter,easy fix i just brought a $12 job from auto pro in there now it works fine.

Hi there, is it easy to replace the cig light slot? i'm not too good with tools. can you explain to me how you changed the cig lighter slot?

cheers

Well.. mine never worked either. I pulled it out and then pushed the metal clip-bit-thing of the socket in further... so that it could touch and hold the actual cigarette lighter in place.

Works now! Might want to try this first? Pull the ashtray out, unscrew the screw behind that. Grab the shifter surround from the rear part, then lift until the whole thing unclips at the back. Slide backwards and up, and the front should come out.

If you spin the piece around, you can see the back of the ciggy lighter socket (without having to take off the shifter knob).

From there, find the side of the socket that has a bit of metal cut out, and push it in a bit more. Test with ciggy lighter.

If the socket just doesn't have power to it (by testing with multimeter off the actual wiring), then this is useless to you. Check fuses for that issue.

Hi there, is it easy to replace the cig light slot? i'm not too good with tools. can you explain to me how you changed the cig lighter slot?

cheers

i simply pulled the whole cig lighter out,theres 3 wires on the back of it,2 for power and 1 earth,from memory the earth was black with orange stripe(just check with a multimeter)one of the power wires is for the light around the cig lighter(the one with a plug on it)put this wont be needed as the aftermaket cig lighter wont fit inside the light,but the aftermaket lighter fits straight in the hole in ur dash,

so all u need is a new cig lighter

a pair of crippers(if u get the cig lighter from a auto electrican just ask them for a connector that fits on the

bottom of ur new lighter)if not there avalible everywhere)

ands about 15mins then ur done,haha its one of the only things im game to touch in my car without fear of sdtuffing it up,so it must be pretty easy

Well.. mine never worked either. I pulled it out and then pushed the metal clip-bit-thing of the socket in further... so that it could touch and hold the actual cigarette lighter in place.

Works now! Might want to try this first? Pull the ashtray out, unscrew the screw behind that. Grab the shifter surround from the rear part, then lift until the whole thing unclips at the back. Slide backwards and up, and the front should come out.

If you spin the piece around, you can see the back of the ciggy lighter socket (without having to take off the shifter knob).

From there, find the side of the socket that has a bit of metal cut out, and push it in a bit more. Test with ciggy lighter.

If the socket just doesn't have power to it (by testing with multimeter off the actual wiring), then this is useless to you. Check fuses for that issue.

hi there i unscrewed the screw, but am unable to pull the whole piece of plastic out as it's 1 large piece extending to the little compartment beside the handbrake. I'm afraid of pulling hard and snapping something cuz mine is an auto and there's the power/at/snow switch in front of the ashtray.

but I tried pushing in the silver bit in the cig slot so that it 'hold' the charger more, I also bent the copper looking piece (at the very end of the hole) inwards as well but stillcan't get a charge..

what's a multimeter? and anywhere i can go to get it fixed or get someone to put in a new cig lighter slot for me? I don't mind paying like 20 bucks or so..

cheers

i simply pulled the whole cig lighter out,theres 3 wires on the back of it,2 for power and 1 earth,from memory the earth was black with orange stripe(just check with a multimeter)one of the power wires is for the light around the cig lighter(the one with a plug on it)put this wont be needed as the aftermaket cig lighter wont fit inside the light,but the aftermaket lighter fits straight in the hole in ur dash,

so all u need is a new cig lighter

a pair of crippers(if u get the cig lighter from a auto electrican just ask them for a connector that fits on the

bottom of ur new lighter)if not there avalible everywhere)

ands about 15mins then ur done,haha its one of the only things im game to touch in my car without fear of sdtuffing it up,so it must be pretty easy

I'll see if there are any pliers that i can borrow off my work tomorrow..

cheers mate.

Oh.. my apologies... I should have mentioned that this is the method for manual shifter surrounds. No idea with an auto.

But I second the auto sparky. If you don't know how to use a multimeter, it's probably best that they check the wiring for you, and then decide on the course of action depending on what is actually wrong with it.

Oh.. my apologies... I should have mentioned that this is the method for manual shifter surrounds. No idea with an auto.

But I second the auto sparky. If you don't know how to use a multimeter, it's probably best that they check the wiring for you, and then decide on the course of action depending on what is actually wrong with it.

thanks mate.. yeah i'll go to a auto electrician (ayone have good recommendations in sydney? live in hurstville, work in westmead)

cheers

went to the auto elec.. told him the problem, he tried it and was kinda puzzled by why it's like that.. then he went hmmm.. went off..came back with a sharp screw driver sorta thing.. starts picking at the insides of the cig lighter. plugs in the charger, the led lights up.. turns to me and say.. yeah a dirty connection.. ;)

woohoo.. don't need to change..

lol! You know there's about 5 dudes sitting infront of their pc's right now going "Man! I thought that was too obvious to mention!" ;op

I was kinda getting at the connection thing though... assuming the contacts were clean, I thought they just weren't touching. Turns out they weren't touching because they had old cigarette all over them! lol

Glad to hear you got it sorted though!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • As you're looking at using a Link ECU, then large injectors are not a problem. But there's not really any need to go 1000s on an RB20 unless you're planning >>600HP on E85, which would seem unlikely. There are other options for injectors. The Xspurt ones are available from a number of places and you can get them in the mid 600s and 725cc, which is probably a sensible place to be. These are all EV14 based. If you are not using the stock AFM (at all, which would be the case with a Link) then a large turbo intake pipe to suit the ATR turbos is not an obstacle, so you should use one instead of a highflow. Results will be better.
    • Hey guys,  I'm after some advice and this here is the best place to get it imo. I was a member a looong time ago under another account, with a lost email address. Its nice to jump back on and see some of the same names still giving good advice.  I mothballed my car when i moved to perth in 2013, and after getting towed across the nullabor a few times it has officially done more km's on a trailer than under its own power. Now that i have started the process of tidying up and modifying it, i see the fruit available (and the fruiterers selling the produce) is different than back in the day. hence my questions, as i used to 'know' what to get and now, i'm not so sure. Engine wise the car (92 gtst) has a walbro 255, k+n, fmic, cam gears and and turbo back 3"exhaust. Wish list is a Hypergear high flow or ATR43G1, Link G4x and some newer injectors before a tune up. My goals are modest, only low 200's power wise. i know i could achieve this with less, but i've been swapping out old for new where i can. Every cooling hose has been replaced, along with mani gaskets, WP, thermostat and radiator, fuel pump and timing belt, tensioner and idler, and i rebuilt the steering rack. Regarding the injectors, the fruiterers all seem to sell what used to be considered quite large injectors. There are a lot of options for bosch 1000cc EV14's, and i would like to know if that is a suitable choice for my build. Is modern injector design good enough to run these at the low duty cycles that i likely would be? is there a downside to running a too large injector these days? or, would there be an upside to running a smaller injector at higher duty cycle? I can see that there are smaller injectors still available, but the ones i have seen specifically marketed for RB's are pretty large (see: https://golebysparts.au/collections/fuel-rail-injector-kits/products/nissan-rb20-fuel-rail-bosch-980cc-1150cc-injectors-turbosmart-fpr800-regulator-kit), and i dont know enough about them to say one not marketed for RB's would fit or not. I have searched the forums, and amongst all the posts on older tech, I did see gtsboy recommend EV14's, but no size was mentioned... again, i'm not clear on if the smaller size bosch injectors are also EV14's as they do look similar.  also, if someone can recommend a tuner familiar with RB's in the Geelong or West Melbourne area i'd appreciate it. Thanks in advance guys. Cheers, Rowdy  
    • FWIW the depth of the groove in the rubber pad is not super essential, the blocks are rubber and squish a bit. If you are worried an angle grinder will make a deeper groove quick smart
    • I mean, if you were to move the jacking points away from the original location, that is, away from the wheels and closer to the centreline of the car, then it will be more likely to overbalance and tip off the supports. Same as we talked about before. I was talking about moving for-aft. If the sill is bent outward or inward, then the car would obviously look unstraight from the outside. Hopefully that hasn't happened either. Again, you can do comparative measurements from the chassis rails to see if there is much deflection.
    • Can you elaborate what you mean with your first sentence? I meant move as in the bulge kinda seemed like it got pulled "outward" meaning it got pulled down and to the side with the jacking rail itself, so the load bearing bulge now sits lower than usual and is not level with the sill on the other side of the jack point. Either that or the jacking rail just got pushed in a good bit.
×
×
  • Create New...