Jump to content
SAU Community

Is Anything Wrong With My R33?

Nothing(V)an

By Nothing(V)an,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Nothing(V)an Contributor

Nothing(V)an

Posted
Posted

i bought my R33 (96 gts-t S2) from an auction, therefore i was unable to drive it before purchase, probably a big mistake but its done...

anyway got it registed yesterday and having been giving it a bit of a thrash, whenever i hit a bump in the road (even potholes) the tail swings (little bit left then right), it swings more between 60-90km after that it is less noticalble. I drove it in the wet today, it swings a little more. never driven a turbo in the wet, was an experience (still in 1 piece). Why is this happening, is it normal? the tyres are in good shape

Another problem i have is most times between 5-6000rpm my exhaust makes a popping noise (3 quick pops)

sorta sounds like backfiring but not very loud?

Lastly, im pretty sure the ECU has been modified as my car does not cut out a 180, could this be related to the other problems. so im thinking i need to take her in for a tuning, anyone know of some good places in brissy?

cheers, oh and suspension is very hard, should i upgrade it?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142521-is-anything-wrong-with-my-r33/
Share on other sites
SLYLNE Rising Star

SLYLNE

Posted
Posted

popping noise would be your coil packs. had the same problem not long ago at the same rev range.

as for the swinging around, get wheel balance and alignment done..remember gtst is 4WS..so get front n rear done. cost about $150odd at pedders.

hope that helps..

mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted

the ecu may not have been modified. your speedo may just be out. on the dyno my speedo said about 195 when it hit the 180kmh limiter.

the popping my either be coils or spark plugs.

as for the tail of the car moving, i'd get a wheel alighment done and get all the suspension checked. there may be something broken or worn, or there may be a problem with the hicas system.

SLIPPERY Experienced

SLIPPERY

Posted
Posted

re swinging: you sure youre just not lighting up the rears with the lsd locking hard and both wheels losing traction, hence sliding around the palce :whistling: ...im not sure how familiar you are with cars

psybic Proficient

psybic

Posted
Posted

I have an idea how he might know that.... not the smartest idea if you are having problem with handling at less speeds...

Speed cut isn't set at exactly 180km in all ECU's... I don't know about skylines, but when exploring remaps of ECU, I was forwarded the 300zx data, speed limit was 188... slight variation in wheels or speedo calibration could easily see a few kms either way.

I love the old, throw it on a dyno for a tune... still not sure how you expect the "tuner" to alter data in the ecu if its stock, which it probably is otherwise you would probably know about it.

mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted
I love the old, throw it on a dyno for a tune... still not sure how you expect the "tuner" to alter data in the ecu if its stock, which it probably is otherwise you would probably know about it.

i just took mine in for a power run and saw that the speed of the dyno said 180 when the limiter hit and the speedo said higher.

RPR33 Community Regular

RPR33

Posted
Posted

"Im pretty sure the ECU has been modified as my car does not cut out a 180..."

When I got my series 2 I also noticed it would go off the clock and just keep going, so I checked the ecu and discovered a ksp tuning label on it!!

Still trying to find out what has been done as far as I can tell no speed limiter and it was a pretty aggressive stocky also no response to the solonoid earthing for ''full time full boost'' :verymad:

MBS206 Grand Master

MBS206

Posted
Posted

Rear wobble is most likely a mm or two of toe out, or quite a few mm toe in.

Mine used to shake exactly the same. Found out the car was running 3mm rear toe in.

And for my all 4 tyres aligned, and suspension/driveline checked, it cost me $50...

Don't know why on earth people think 4WS costs more :S

My wheel alignment specialist reckons the newer and more "intricate" they get, the easier they are to set up.

yummy Enthusiast

yummy

Posted
Posted (edited)

yep popping noise is probably misfiring, caused by cracked coilpacks or worn spark plugs.

also when i had my stock ecu in speed cut was at 195 on my nismo 300kmh speedo, however that is probably inaccurate due to running different diameter wheels to stock..

Edited by yummy

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      The Cool Tools Thread

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I don't know that machine specifically, but I'd personally go for something with a little more kick than 130amp. Around up to 180 would be good. At the 6mm range, you're really pushing the machine hard and don't have a long period you can run for with out needing to give it a rest. Lots of MIG machines come with a regulator and hose. A lot will come with a starter roll of wire too, but it isn't too expensive to buy. I'd recommend NOT buying a massive roll too, as you don't want it sitting around FOREVER in the machine between uses and potentially going to shit. For thin sheet metal, get a roll of 0.6mm if you're doing over 3mm and above, switch over to 0.8mm wire. Even by 2mm you'd probably really want to switch. As for gas battle, it's all swap and go style now. You'll pay a bottle deposit, and then X amount to swap for a full one. I think it's like $200 or $300 for a D Size bottle upfront as "deposit", and like $110 to $150 per swap. My D size CO2/argon bottle lasts a fair bit of welding on the MIG. And I run an E size bottle on the TIG. For DIY MIG, stick with a D size bottle. If you really start to get into a LOT of welding and doing it really regularly, then upgrade. If you're like most DIY car guys, one D bottle will last you 2 or 3 years easily. I think I've been on my current bottle about 5 years. It is starting to get low, but I've been smashing it a lot more the last 6 months.
    • KKaplumbaa
      SR20 to cefiro

      By KKaplumbaa · Posted

      SR20s came with cars like the Bluebird and Primera, but the RB20 never came. The ones in Turkey were either brought in specially or from abroad. That's why RBs aren't as common as SRs. And if a part breaks or I need to replace it when doing maintenance, it's harder to find parts for RBs.
    • GTSBoy
      SR20 to cefiro

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I would suggest equally difficult to find, perhaps edging to the SR. Turkey has almost exclusively Euro market cars, some Korean, few Japanese other than pedestrian shite. I guess they're probably losing the fight against Chinese shit like we are now too. I would vote for a BMW V8, found in a 540i in a wrecking yard somewhere in Deutschland (or possibly Albania).
    • MrStabby
      The Cool Tools Thread

      By MrStabby · Posted

      A CigWeld EasyWeld 130 can be had from ebay for $360 delivered. Good for 0.6 to 6mm, which would be fine for my requirements. I guess that on top of that you would need to buy a regulator, hoses and wire. I already have gloves and an auto-darkening mask. How is the gas bottle charged? Do you rent it then pay for top ups?
    • Ozdavroz
      SR20 to cefiro

      By Ozdavroz · Posted

      RB20 being an option from factory would mean no custom parts or fabrication required, just have to collect the right bits. Probably would be the easiest option I reckon for a motor swap. How common are SR20s vs RBs in Turkey?
×
×
  • Create New...