Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 119
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

What does the warranty cover though. Could be its only makign the power it is because of a problem they are masking???? So takign it to someone else may help identify the problem.

And its a big problem when a std RB20 with a Trust setup is making similar power, better response with an extra 4psi !!!

...and if you dont want the AVC-R, i will buy it. I like them and am lookign for another (Seriously)

You know how it is guys, loyalty, egos, client and mechanic relationships.

It's all in the mix here and treading carefully is high on the list of priorities for me as I don't want to upset anyone, but yes I also want my GT-R to be right so it's looking like I gotta do what I gotta do.

Thanks heaps for all the suggestions once again. Much much appreciated.

Unless the AVCR is faulty it wont be the cause. You cant set them so wrong they hurt the response of the turbos so badly. Boost spikes yeh, but not hurt the power so badly that even at 1.2bar its only makign 270odd and the response is up the sh1t

the gain setting on the avc-r looks to be affecting output (hence the wavy line on your power curve) Jim (Croydon) knows this boost controller inside-out and can set it up properly (although he does not recommend them). Blitz controllers are quicker to ramp up boost and keep it steady better too, we made the same power with 4psi less boost just by changing the avc-r for a blitz controller.

Disclaimer: the information given in this post may be total bullsh1t.

I know you guys wouldnt usually go onto the silvia forum, but this thread is worth a look, it's not always a majorly technical problem, i'm not saying that the avcr isn't faulty or needs to have the duty retuned i'm just saying it's far easier to eliminate the simple things first.

After all the concept is the same,

The car in question was a 180sx, it had upgraded turbo with the additional bolt on's that come with it, it had similar problems to what you are having with your gtr, the guy spent a lot of money replacing things having things retuned etc etc, when in the end it was just......

read this:

http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...=132004&hl=

Edited by R32gts-t

I have driven a 33 with the GTSS, it was built and tuned in japan, tha car was resposive as hell, when boost kicked in and the car hit his midrange it would light the tires. the full boost hit about 3400. as for your AF ratio, it looks quite good from here, you sould get a better boost controler, i run the blitz with a tripple solenoid setup, have a friend that runs a AVCR in his evo 4 but that thing spikes like crazy (if you are foolish enough to run 24psi through that controler)

AVC-R could be the issue

Its not the best tool for the job.

You need a good dual solenoid setup

Not necessarily. The AVCR does a good job when its setup right. Its a pain to perfect but just because a EBC is dual solenoid means nothing! I've had a few mates whose Blitz ID-III/iColor is causing them havoc too.

I vote to see your AVCR settings which include the map, gear judge, learn gear and feedback values. By the wavy powercurve, your target boost setting and the duty cycle mapping is probably too far off and your feedback values are too high.

Edited by Busky2k

sorry to go off topic a little

but where should the GT-SS boost in the rev range?

Justin talking about 4500 obviously too high but where should it be? 3500? 3000?

RellikZephyr

Yeah there is something definitely wrong there, my GT-SS's come on strong from 3000rpm in the higher gears and around 3500rpm in first from memory. They feel a bit laggy between long gear changes, but if your quick it is full power the whole time!

I just love them for that reason, you put your foot down and your away. Response wise, i was next to a new wrx sti the other day, and off a slow rolling start, i came on boost only a fraction of a second after he did.

can boost creep occur with std turbos and actuators?

can it be felt as lag on gear changes?

cause i have std turbos and it feels little sluggish and doesnt get full boost (1 Bar) till 4k is that normal?

what causes and cures it?? had this for a while but wasnt that worried about it (and no idea what it was)

note: boost controlled by EBC

Sorry to hijack this post

RellikZephyr

Not necessarily. The AVCR does a good job when its setup right. Its a pain to perfect but just because a EBC is dual solenoid means nothing! I've had a few mates whose Blitz ID-III/iColor is causing them havoc too.

I vote to see your AVCR settings which include the map, gear judge, learn gear and feedback values. By the wavy powercurve, your target boost setting and the duty cycle mapping is probably too far off and your feedback values are too high.

The AVC-R just doesnt keep it going well enough is what it seems, regardless of "how well" you set it up, its simply not the best tool for your money.

On a mild turbo, with ~15psi, no worries. AVC-R isnt too shabby, but if you asking a lot of the setup, you'll be disappointed time and time again.

If people want to spend lots of $$$ trying to get it close to acecptable, thats thier choice. Im just pointing out that there is an easier way to do it.

ferni had to change controller aswell because he was having issues... cant remember what he did have but i suspect it was the avc-r.

It just didnt do the job well enough. It worked, yeah, but there is better stuff out there for the same/cheaper price.

But Ash, i cantr be the only guy that was running an 8psi spring pressure and with a bit of adjustment and self learning on the track it held 18psi no problem. Thats a 10psi increase over the spring pressure and it worked fine.

So again, if someone is having trouble with theirs and cant get it to work, i will buy it as mine died in the last fire, and im cheap and cant bring myself to pay new EBC prices when the setup i have now works fine, only it isnt adjustable in the cabin

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,   I’ve got the biggest lot of problems with my R33 GTS-T   It was a freshly rebuilt 25th anniversary RB25DET (plastic cas, neo cams) probably 6 years ago now   The engine was running so well but I fkd up badly and trusted someone I’d known for 10 years that was well known around Plazmaman for his welding and fab work. I added a lovely photo of some of his previous work. Not sure why my car was worked on by whoever did this shit     I’m normally someone who would never open myself up to something like this, I still can’t believe I did it. Trusting him literally fkd it all up for me. Everything has been a struggle, like it’s almost been 6 years that’s how much I’ve just on and off been trying to work it all out.    All I wanted was a car that danced down low, like full boost from around 3~3500rpm to redline, don’t really care what power it puts down (if it ever does) but I just wanted it to be quick to get on it.    He recommended the turbo to get, I picked Hypergear but he told me to get the front 4” with a T4 and 0.68 rear housing.    I was expecting all these beautiful welds, tidy fab work and paid for it to be ready to go to a tuner when I got it back.    I got a car back that was an absolute mess, I actually couldn’t believe it was my car anymore. I don’t think you could even call what he did welds, they’re disgusting.    So I stripped everything he touched off it and with every bolt I loosened it just got worse and worse.    I covered it and literally built and finished another car in the meantime but now it’s getting to the point where I really want my Skyline back.   Its a struggle because I paid him to do all this shit because I didn’t know how to and now I’ve had to try and figure it all out omg    Please excuse the bird shit horrible welds, I’ve got my show pony car and am so beyond dealing with this car I don’t even really care at this point.    If someone told me about what he did to my car I wouldn’t have believed them but it happened to me. It was unbelievable. He went missing, my car went missing, it came back missing parts, the straight af chassis rails bore the scars of being dragged up a trailer backwards, even the sandwich plate was bent. Everything was leaking and open to whatever fell into it, rounded off/ missing bolts, power steering oil and coolant everywhere, no gaskets, parts stolen off it, even managed to damage the sump pan.   Promised me he’d finish the car, knew what it meant to me, I paid him thousands and thousands just for him to trash it. He told me he was fully licensed and insured, come to find out he’d cancelled his ABN, so obviously no insurance. I had laid up insurance on the car and would’ve been covered but I was scared they would’ve written it off or because the business was no longer trading I’d still be liable.    He was supposed to:  New fully custom mild steam pipe exhaust manifold with turbo location moved from factory position to high forward mount. (I don’t know if it is a mild steam pipe, I’ve got a funny feeling the waste gate isn’t in a very good position and I don’t think the outlets off each cylinder are equal) 4” custom stainless steel dump with external gate (he re-plumbed it) Cut and shut OEM intake manifold with throttle reposition (I ended up doing the throttle reposition) Box in pod filter (left out) New 100cel catalytic converter (pretty sure it’s there but unsure if it’s 100cel) Front mount intercooler piping fabricated to suit (all smashed up and rusty holes where he was supposed to make it look standard where fmic piping passes through. I don’t even think my front bar is going to fit 🙄) Custom 5” intake pipe from pod to turbo (didn’t come with it so had to do something to make it work with the Z32 afm)   Engine: Full cylinder head service & machining  Brand new valves Precision upgraded spring kit Engine block honed New bearings  New piston rings  New ARP conrod bolt kit New ARP head studs Cometic head gasket VRS kit   ATR43SS2 ball bearing turbo 0.68 rear housing  Turbosmart 45mm external wastegate (got delivered to the fab bloke, I’ve got no idea what spring is in it, I’m assuming the one that came pre installed) Walbro 260 fuel pump  Nismo 740cc injectors (tested to 880) Spitfire coil packs GCG FMIC RB25DET manual 5 speed 4:11 rear diff   I’ve got an Apexi Power FC in it atm, I was hoping to just get it to operating temp to make sure everything was okay before towing to a tuner but it’s over-fuelling too much. I don’t think that’s going to happen so i think I’m going to get either a Link G4 or Haltech for it. What do you guys recommend? I can’t work out the power FC so just gonna give up on that one     It’s got an exhaust leak coming from somewhere I can’t see 🙄    The fuel pressure was steady but now it like drops from 40 to 20psi randomly (noticed this yesterday)    I’ll attach pics of the shit he put on my car and the engine bay now as it sits    I really just need some help, I need a tuner in Sydney I can trust, I’d like to be with the car while it’s being tuned if possible, I know it looks terrible but unfortunately I’ve just got to put up with it for now and fix the cosmetic stuff later   Do you guys think the manifolds are going to be okay? Or do I throw the exhaust manifold and try again?   I don’t even think these combinations are going to work tbh   I know everything I fitted was rated to be able to take at least 400kW but most rated higher    If you’ve gotten this far I really really appreciate it 🙏 I don’t mind if you trash me or the car, I made a rookie error and f**k I’ve paid for it. As you’ll see 🙄  
    • From everything I’ve heard you’ll be waiting a long time for  the parts to arrive 
    • Have you looked at the workshop manual?
    • Hmm. I've gotten pretty good outcomes from talking to them about things that I've had go wrong or ideas for improvement. Have had a lot to say about the R32 FUCAs, and they have sent out some replacement parts for those, gratis, on a couple of occasions. Mind you, I have bought a couple hundreds of $ of replacement rod ends for them too!
    • I have a r34 sedan 1999 manual converted need some help with my speedometer it only reads upto 98km and then stops currently still running the auto cluster any easy fixes no speedo drive is connected yet, if someone has a video for wiring up the manual speedo sensor with the auto cluster please send through 
×
×
  • Create New...