Replacing Clutch - Parts Required?

[No Crust Racing]

I've had a bit of a search but with no success (is it just me or does the does the SAU search need some love?)

Anyway, I'm in the process of acquiring a new clutch, mine slips if I try and pull a burnout after a 1/4 or two and I'd just like to replace it and know that it's done for safety. My car only has a cat back at the moment but the plan is to eventually aim for around basic 180-200rwkw mark that most people go for with standard bolt on bits. With this in mind I'm looking at the Exedy Kit on in the group buy section which is apparently good for 240rwkw's.

That's all well and good but what else do I need to do when replacing the clutch as I'll be doing this myself (with professional assistance of course) I know I'll need to machine the fly wheel, what's that cost? I know I'll need a spriggot bush (sourced that from UAS for $25) but what else do I need and does someone have a tutorial on the process? I'm trying to get as much info now as my car is a daily and I need it for work so ideally this would be all done over a weekend and right to go on Monday. So my questions are..

-What parts do I require beyond a clutch kit (kit includes clutch plate, pressure plate and thrust bearing as I understand), spriggot bush and having the flywheel machine?

-Does someone have a tutorial for this process (As mentioned for a Series 2 33)

-Any other useful information much appreciated - like anything special I should know about what clutch fluid to use etc etc

-When replacing a clutch do I have to replace my box fluid? (it's only 3mths old and it's redline lightweight shock proof so cost me a few bucks).

For reference the car will sometimes grin a bit going into gear at high revs under full load, I'm hoping this is the clutch slipping a little but I know it could also be the synchro's wearing out and a clutch is a much cheaper option than rebuilding a box

Cheers Guys

***Quick Edit*** We already have a clutch aligning tool

Edited November 9, 2006 by ActionDan

[mad082]

you don't need any other parts than what you have said.

as for the process, here is a rough guide.

remove shifter.

remove exhaust.

remove tailshaft.

remove clutch slave cylinder.

undo the starter motor and all the bell housing bolts. the hardest one to get to is directly behind the rocker cover. there are also 2 plugs on the gearbox that have to be unplugged.

put a jack under the box and have it take the weight. then udo the support bracket.

then slowly lower the jack while pulling back on the gearbox. you may also have to twist it.

remove the old clutch. should be 6 12mm bolts holding it to the flywheel. it will also be sitting on dowels so you will just need to pry it off with a screw driver.

you may not need to machine the flywheel. it may just need a quick sand.

go and clean your hands before handling the new clutch. you don't want any oil on it.

put the clutch and pressure plate on and put the bolts in a turn or 2. now position the clutch plate in the centre and tighten the bolts. to get the fully tight put 1 of the bell housing bolts in and wedge a screwdriver into the teeth of the flywheel to stop it from turning.

now reverse the removal process to install the box.

[mad082]

also, you don't need to drop the oil out, but it will most probably spill some out the back of the gearbox when pulling it out if you don't. so you can just drain the oil, and put the same oil back in if you don't want to change it.

[No Crust Racing]

Thanks heaps for the info, greatly appreciated.

I've heard that people replace the pivot ball which if I understand correctly operates against the selector fork?

Cheers

[mad082]

yeah, you can replace it, but you don't have to. have a look at it to make sure it isn't cracked at all (look around the base of the ball). i know that you can get ones from uniqueautosports.com for about $55. if you do replace it don't over tighten it or it will snap at the base.

in my case i had to take the box out to replace it cause it was broken (from being over tightened). i just got mine fixed. a bought a high tensile bolt, cut the head off it, drilled a hole in the base of the bolt where the old one had been and tapped a thread and screwed it in.

[No Crust Racing]

In that case I might just buy one and if I don't use it I'll sell it off - then again, I might as well just fit it if I have it and make sure that it all gets done on the weekend and that everything has been replaced, ideally It shouldn't take more than a day I don't think but yeah as I said being a daily I need it mobile ASAP. Plus I don't really want to pull it apart more than once. Are there any special instructions with bedding the new clutch in or any special adjustments that need to be made anywhere, like the pedal box for example? The clutch is an Exedy HD Organic.

[mad082]

definately shouldn't take more than a day. i did a clutch in a 180sx last night. started it at just after 5, and was finished by 8. but i had use of a hoist.

[MrStabby]

as for the process, here is a rough guide.

<snip>

Great guide - I would just add the following to that;

- I used a big socket on the nut on the front of the crank (balancer) to stop it from moving (but then, i did have to replace my flywheel)

- If you do have to re-install your flywheel, use engine oil on the bolt threads

- Use copper based grease (coppercoat? sp? coppercote?) or nickel based grease on the splines (input shaft to clutch plate). I also put a touch on the clutch mechanisim pivot points.

- Use of a torque wrench is mandatory!

BTW - i have the GB clutch in my 230kw GTR at its perfect for the way i drive and the traffic i have to drive in. Feels like it will hold a lot more than 240kw - but i'll probably found out soon enough...

HTH,

Kot