Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys,

I just got my clutch changed on my R33 GTS-T 1995, it had the original Nissan clutch on previously, I changed it to an excedy heavy duty clutch (organic) . Now I feel like I have lost a bit of power, the car is still running great besides that small loss of power esp. in between shifts, it feels like it takes a while to get going after changing from 1st to 2nd and from 2nd to third etccc..(CLUTCH IS NOT SLIPPING THO) but once I get past that stage it feels like my car again..

I have spoke to a few guys and they all say that the clutch has nothing to do with loss or gain of power. What do you guys think ?? is it all in my head or what

Thanks guys

Amer

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142682-am-i-paranoid-or-what/
Share on other sites

I dont think its anything to do with the clutch, because I have heard all positive feedback about it.. maybe the way my mechanic installed it ?? I dunno mybe its in my head..

Anyone had this experience??? or maybe the oposite or no change ??? feedback would be very much appreciated.

Edited by daleb4u
  • 3 months later...

I had my clutch replaced the other day (a PVR/PBR heavy duty 'normal' clutch.. can't remember) and have the EXACT same thing. It's nearly like a 'pre-lag' just after a gear change and YES it feels like a loss in power. Mine's p1ss1ing me off. I also have the "CLUNK!" noise from the diff/driveline when playing around with the clutch pedal catch point while reversing. Another annoying 'quirk' to this car :P I'm gonna have a transmission person look at it, cos although my mechanic has the exact same clutch in the exact same car, it never used to do it, and it annoys me too much to leave as is.

heavy duty clutches are only different to OEM clutches( assuming its organic ) in that the clamping load is higher and the pressure plate is usually forged and not just cast like on a normal one.

I'd say its probably in your head man... my car is getting slower everyday need more power eh ;)

Well, seeing as one of my mechanics took it for a drive with me and could feel what I was talking about, it's not in my head. He did say his cars (R33's) both had it too, but I don't think it's something they're supposed to have, as I've never felt it before until the last few months. It just makes the car feel sloppy in a straight line and annoys me. I'll be chasing it down.

Edited by sl33py

OK, I had a new mechanic look at and drive it today, and he reckons he knows what it is. He wanted to put it up on the hoist to confirm, so I'll go back in a few days time. But he reckons (watch out, incorrect part naming to follow, I'm no mechanic!): on the same little arm thing which has the "throw-out bearing" on one end, there is a pin that holds a bolt with a ball-end. He said it is not uncommon for that bolt to snap so that the pin is the only thing holding it there and for many mechanics to not realise the problem when working in the area. In fact the installer has the same car and clutch, so I'm sure he'll be over the moon to hear that he has a problem hahahah. And what happens is the pin makes a 'crack'ing noise when it smacks back into the ball-end. If this is the cause, I'll go back to the installer (Dynotune... don't ask) to get them to fix it for free.

Coincidentally, I'm gonna get some upgrades in the coming months and this bloke also said the clutch won't be good enough for the power I'll make. Luckily he only charges $450 to go in and do clutch work. Anyone foresee the need for a spare clutch capable of ~210rwkw in the next few months? Would be fine for any stockish R33, mine has 150kw at the moment, but going for about 250kw or so.

Edited by sl33py

I have the same clutch in the same car... I get the jolting noises when reversing, and it feels a little laggy when changing... but I put that down to the fact that the clutch it grabbing COMPLETELY when you change gears, rather than slipping a bit and keeping the engine revs higher. My other clutch was VERY dead when I had the new one put in.

I had my guy put in a nismo... um... now i've forgotten what it is called. Pivot ball? The bolt I think you're talking about. It's a thicker unit than the standard, and even though my standard one wasn't dead, I thought it a worthwhile piece of insurance.

I had my guy put in a nismo

So is the clicking noise gone now?

And how about the hesitation after changing gears?

I'm waiting back for clutch availability but hoping you found this fixed it. If so, we're NOT crazy or paranoid!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeahhhh, the costs have killed me. Spent more than the cost of an engine rebuild and it most mostly servicing and a tune lol.
    • I'm not 100% how the BMW racers do it, but I know from other brands like Merc, moving, and changing the coolers is one of the things. Like getting a transcooler out from infront of the radiator to out near a wheel arch. So some of the stuff you've got crammed in the middle front, spread it out and open up where you can in the bar to get more air in to the sides.
    • Small update for the day... Turns out the intercooler and engine coolant hose kits are anything but complete....I probably should have counted better but it only really covers about half the coolant hoses in the car, it really just covers the visible stuff and pretends everything else doesn't exist (turbo water feed and returns and also heat exchanger lines through the 2 pumps and cooler) .In any case, I'm happier to have half reliable hoses than none, but a bit of a disappointment. Anyway...finger click (and 5 hours).....hoses in place, lots of spring clamps replaced with screw clamps, and engine coolant is on the pressure tester for the night.   Incidentally, upsized header tank is an Inifiniti factory option....not sure I'll ever do prod car racing in this but at least it is legal.
    • Just weld it onto the hot pipe. If you want it right after the turbo, put it right after the turbo. Or rip the comp cover off and drill and tap a hole into it.
    • hahaha glad I can rely on you two to go on a spiral at the drop of a problem! Some quick answers....the ducting is excellent top bottom and sides....everything that gets in goes through the coolers (noting the oil cooler redirects it out again, fair call if it is cooling 120o+) and the heat exchanger for the intercooler also has some scoops to pick up more than it's fair share too. I can't see going down the water spray track....no bueno for formal racing and a big risk for long rally days if you run out (plus I'm not clear if it is allowed there either yet).   Frankly, it must be possible to reliably put 400kw through a standard front end, the BMWs do it so I just need to work it out....I'm starting with reducing blockages in the way and adding some coolant capacity with a bigger header tank, flushing rad and making sure it was filled/bled properly (I didn't do the last coolant change); also taken measurements incase next step is a bigger/higher capacity custom radiator
×
×
  • Create New...