How Much Boost Are You Running On Your Stock Gtr Turbos?

[MrStabby]

Select your poll and if your running more then 1 Bar, list your set up as well as boost and power!

Im trying to get an idea of how much the stock turbo's can take from people who can 100% confirm that their turbos are stock ceramic turbo's

Most people say 1 bar is it but I have seen cars run more without problems on bonefied ceramic turbo's.

I have also seen cars with less then 14 psi damage ceramic's but is more likely due to shagged turbo's.

<snip>

My 2c - I think i better way to state the question would be "how far can i push the stardard turbos with a particular setup before i significantly increase the risk of failure". That is, you're looking for the sweet spot at which you get the most power without having a short burning fuse under the bonnet.

From an engineering point of view anedotal evidence is of little value. One persons story of survival at 17 psi without issue is not a useful indicator of anything. In statistics that's a sample size of one, and you cant make any useful judgement on that. Guys like R31Nismoid have seen a lot more than one case and can therefore make a realistic judgement on risk. Of course when he says 1 bar he is also assuming the turbos are not worn out and the engine is tuned correctly, because naturally all bets are off otherwise.

FWIW i asked CRD if running 14psi on my R32 GTR is a concern and they said not at all (but its only 231awkw and uses their tune). BTW, I have a vague memory that the maintenace schedule states that the turbos should be rebuilt every 100,000kms....

HTH,

Kot

[saliya]

My 2c - I think i better way to state the question would be "how far can i push the stardard turbos with a particular setup before i significantly increase the risk of failure". That is, you're looking for the sweet spot at which you get the most power without having a short burning fuse under the bonnet.

Agreed - or even 'how much does turning the wick up by "x" reduce the length of the fuse'

From an engineering point of view anedotal evidence is of little value. One persons story of survival at 17 psi without issue is not a useful indicator of anything. In statistics that's a sample size of one, and you cant make any useful judgement on that. Guys like R31Nismoid have seen a lot more than one case and can therefore

I disagree. A collection of size == 1 samples becomes more truly representative the more

samples are provided - and what we _also_ gain is the ability to view the evidence and make

deductions on our own.

No offence to R31Nismoid (and other moderators) but each person's e-pinion is skewed by personal

experience (and sometimes, they have the basic facts wrong: cf post #8 in this thread). Sometimes

I get the feeling that individuals have made their minds up about something and they use "evidence"

that supports their opinion and discard that which doesn't.

Better to collect the personal experiences and let everyone make their own judgement call.

Regards,

Saliya

[amosite]

Not sure if R32 V-spec II's had N1 turbos but i don't think they did, maybe someone that has a 32 V-spec II can confirm this .

Yes, they did, but they had the smaller 6U00 where the Homologated N1 has RS580 and RS581

which were stupidly laggy with 60mm comp and a back cut exhaust.

E.g no boost until 5,000 RPM

They had the 17'' forged BBS wheels, Brembo's (same as R33) and a few other major and minor changes.

Compressor Compressor Wheel Compressor Compressor Compressor Turbine Turbine Wheel Turbine Turbine Turbine Cut back Core Comments

Housing Wheel (mm) Trim A/R Housing Wheel (mm) Trim A/R Bearings

BNR32 & R33 (14411-24U00) T3 T3 42.5 - 60.1 50T 0.42 T25 T25 41.5 - 50.5 62T 0.48 270°  Ceramic

~225PS

32Nismo (14411-06U00) T04B T3 44.6 - 60.1 62T 0.42 T25 T25 41.7 - 53.0 CD79 0.64 15° 270° ~300PS

33N1 (14411-24U10) T3 T3 44.5 - 60.1 55T 0.42 T25 T25 41.7 - 53.0 CD79 0.64 360° ~280PS

BNR34 (14411-AA300) GT22 C100 39.6 - 56.0 50T 0.53 T25 GT25 41.7 - 50.4 68T 0.48 BB Ceramic

(T3?) ~225PS

34N1 (14411-AA401) T3 C106 44.5 - 60.0 55T 0.6 T25 GT25 42.4 - 53.8 62T 0.64 BB ~250PS

34N1 (14411-AA402) T3 C106 44.5 - 60.0 55T 0.6 T25 GT25 42.4 - 53.8 62T 0.64 BB ~250PS

34N1 (14411-AA403) GT22 C106 44.5 - 60.0 55T 0.42 T25 GT25 42.4 - 53.8 62T 0.64 BB ~250PS

HKS GT2510 T04B T03 47.7 63T 0.6 T25 GT25 41.7 62T 0.64 BB ~310PS

(T3?)

HKS GT2530 T04B T03 47.7 - 60.0 63T 0.6 T25 GT25 47.0 - 53.8? 76T 0.64 BB ~320PS

(T3?)

HKS GT2540 T04B T04E 51.7 - 76.2 46T 0.6 T25 GT25 47.0 - 53.8 76T 0.64 BB ~350PS

(T3?)

HKS GT2835 51.2 - 71.1 0.61 T3 GT25 51.8 - 56.5 56T 0.64 BB ~375PS

HKS GT-SS T04B GT25 44.46 - 59.41 56T 0.42 T25 GT25 42.4 - 53.85? 62T 0.64 BB ~280PS

HKS GT-ZZ BB ~330PS

HKS GT-RS T04E? GT25 51.2 52T 0.6 T25 GT25 47 76T 0.64 BB ~400PS

Nismo 260RS (14411-RR595) T3 T3 44.5 55T 0.42 T25 T25 41.7 CD79 0.64 360° ~280PS

Nismo for street (14411-RS580) T04B T3 62T 0.42 T25 T25 CD79 0.64 7° 360° ~280PS

Nismo GT/le mans(14411-RS581) T04B T3 55T 0.6 T25 T25 CD79 0.64 15° 360° ~320PS

Nismo R1 (1441A-RSR45) T3 T3 55T 0.42 T25 GT25 62T 0.64 BB ~280PS

This is a lot easier to understand in excel

This is MOSTLY Correct. Some things I know are incorrect is that the RS580 dont have a 0.42 comp but a 0.60 and also says RS580 is "Nismo for street" which is not correct either. I think they have this mixed or needs more information to be 100% correct.

My 2c - I think i better way to state the question would be "how far can i push the stardard turbos with a particular setup before i significantly increase the risk of failure". That is, you're looking for the sweet spot at which you get the most power without having a short burning fuse under the bonnet.

I agree and disagree- more below

No offence to R31Nismoid (and other moderators) but each person's e-pinion is skewed by personal

experience (and sometimes, they have the basic facts wrong: cf post #8 in this thread). Sometimes

I get the feeling that individuals have made their minds up about something and they use "evidence"

that supports their opinion and discard that which doesn't.

Better to collect the personal experiences and let everyone make their own judgement call.

Regards,

Saliya

I agree with this more as you are able to make your own somewhat educated decision.

The last thing im going to do is a noob thing and state current mods, planed mods and wait for one line answers from people who know squat, or people who know a lot, but give a general (read quick) answer.

The other 90% of replies will be 14 psi and a shit load of post whores quoting the same shit.

I feel readers will get more out of this thread with the way I have asked the question. Especially if someone does a search at a later date and thinks to themselves "beaut, 17 psi for me" (on their near stock set up) then posts a topic "blew my turbo's on 17 psi due to thread XXX..."

Then thinks this forum (and users) is a bunch of tossing salad.

[700HP-GTR33]

All Turbo's...after 100K kms should be overhauled......especially the ceramic type ones Nissan used.

This is even to long if the car has had a lead foot at the wheel.

My assumption is that all gtr32's have had some tinkering in the odometer readings....making for more$$$$

at the auctions. This also goes for a lot of other imports.

Getting back to your boost and realiability.....................

1 Bar on standard turbo's on a gtr is fine if the turbo's are new.......

They can support only this much...dialling them up higher does not improve anything.

On the other hand ,if you are sure your turbo's have not been driven hard ,

have been on your car since the car was new and your odometer reading is correct

run 1 bar only .

Don't forget...preventian is better than the cure....especially when it comes to a RB26.

Hope I have been of some help.

[R31Nismoid]

..actually the turbs are off the car and they are fine...something else went bang

Ah, well there ya go

Last time i spoke to Geoff... being i aint seen him for a while... thats what he told me (and everyone else), glad to hear it was something else in the end

No offence to R31Nismoid (and other moderators) but each person's e-pinion is skewed by personal

experience (and sometimes, they have the basic facts wrong: cf post #8 in this thread).

See above as to my posts "incorrectness". Been a while since i've seen Geoff

Mine isnt skewed, how is that even possible?

Its a collation. Which is broad and not restricted to one expirience of one car, im sure when a workshop gives advice its over a broad range of testing...

Not one particular car and apply that to everyone.

You could go back to post #2 of this thread and have a read of it as it as i cbf'd copy/pasting.

But the 2nd half of the post pretty much sums it up

[Roy]

All Turbo's...after 100K kms should be overhauled......especially the ceramic type ones Nissan used.

This is even to long if the car has had a lead foot at the wheel.

Overhauled? What new seals and bearings? That wont stop the turbine from parting company?

And it seems the later model R34 GTRs dont mind a little bit more boost...but seriously, unlike GTSTs that jsut fall into the cat, GTRs sometimes kill motors when the turbos say bye bye...so i would stick to around 12-13psi if it was my car. And if i was really thrashing it...i would tend to get rid of the ceramics straight away

[rev210]

my standard r32 gtr turbos let go at only 11 psi. They were 240,000kms old tho'.

The question to ask yourself is;

How much do I care if the ceramic turbine lets go and causes my engine to need a rebuild?

If you don't care and are ready for a rebuild or have a spare motor, then turn up the boost as much as you like.

Hand over $6k+ for a rebuild?

IF however you can accept the fact that you now ,in terms of usage, own a relatively 'old' car, with it's old motor and old turbos, then you may just think to keep things in check till you are ready to go for a real step into less fragile turbo. If you have a couple of $k you can fix the concern now and be done with it.

There are very few examples of GTR turbos living to an old age at 1 bar or over. When it comes to high boost take your wisdom from the many turbos that have died and the motors that went with them. A set of steel wheel turbos are alot cheaper than an Rb26 rebuild afterall.

[amosite]

Maybe we should have another topic "what have you damaged when your turbo's went BANG"

[700HP-GTR33]

(((Overhauled? What new seals and bearings? That wont stop the turbine from parting company? ))))

Overhauled:examine thouroughly.........

Sorry should have said....through them out.

[N I B]

Ive seen a lot of RBs thro the exhaust wheel but never seen one damage the engine,bit hard for parts to go against air traveling at hundreds of feet per second.Maybe if something goes thru the engine damaging it then doing the same to the turbo is the real deal.