Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Anyone know where I can get some taller diff ratios for a GTR

S15 manual uses 3.7 CWP from memory and is same R200 (more-or-less), so should fit, but I haven't tried this one. But what do you do with the front diff ??....might be some aftermarket CWP's for the front diff, but probably not common and whether you could get the same ratio is another matter. Of course you could just always run in RWD, but the taller ratio will kill acceleration.

Thanks for the responses:

ookami; it's an R32 GTR.

SteveL; yes the front diff is a problem. using RB26/30 with a 7250 redline so would like to try using extra torque and taller ratios to give it longer legs. In 2wd I couldnt afford the tyres :)

TO4GTR; the 34 GTR ratios look good. It's got to be a signficant difference otherwise it's not worth the effort so the Stagea is probably out. Now to find some 34 GTR centres....

Cheers

Thanks for the responses:

ookami; it's an R32 GTR.

SteveL; yes the front diff is a problem. using RB26/30 with a 7250 redline so would like to try using extra torque and taller ratios to give it longer legs. In 2wd I couldnt afford the tyres :yes:

TO4GTR; the 34 GTR ratios look good. It's got to be a signficant difference otherwise it's not worth the effort so the Stagea is probably out. Now to find some 34 GTR centres....

Cheers

it will be tall as f**k

there are heaps of choices...3.5, 3.7, 3.9 4.08, 4.11, 4.3 etc..

as long as they are all r200 meh :P

3.9 is my vote for rb30det ( i know the pain of short gears with the 3lt ;) )

Yer - but there aren't heaps of choices for the F160 front diff

I've gone the other way (put a 4.11 diff into my R34 GTR) and I can tell you it has made a massive difference. For my applications it's been awesome but I'd hate to imagine going back the other way. Still if thats what you are chasing it sure is an option.

Hi Snowman, I thought that putting a 4.11 into an R34 would make it really short as from memory the box ratios are shorter in the R34, just more of them. If the intended application you're referring to is track work, that makes sense. Looked into an R34 box with standard diffs once and decided against it as there wasn't much gain in legs overall compared to the standard R32 set up.

  • 2 months later...

still wanting to run either 3.7 or 3.5 ratios, rarity of 3.7 looks like it will have to be 3.5 which means 34 GTR.

i think the 34 and 32 housings are the same but not sure if the internals are the same, and i'm under the impresson that that all 34s have active diffs.

does anyone know if the crown and pinion from a 34 will bolt into an R32 GTR and work, particularly if my assumption about the 34 diffs all being active is correct?

still wanting to run either 3.7 or 3.5 ratios, rarity of 3.7 looks like it will have to be 3.5 which means 34 GTR.

i think the 34 and 32 housings are the same but not sure if the internals are the same, and i'm under the impresson that that all 34s have active diffs.

does anyone know if the crown and pinion from a 34 will bolt into an R32 GTR and work, particularly if my assumption about the 34 diffs all being active is correct?

I assume that you have actually done the numbers on this? Worked out the max speed in each gear and the top speed?

With 245/45/17 tyres and a 4.1 diff ratio you are currently looking at the following ~KPH in each gear at 7,500 rpm

1st = 66 kph

2nd = 115 kph

3rd = 168 kph

4th = 220 kph

5th = 289 kph

Do you really need a top speed more than 289 kph?

For cruising, 2,850 rpm = 110 kph (speed limit) in 5th gear. That's off boost for any turbo sized to allow max power at 7,000 rpm. So economy is good, but overtaking power is only a short squeeze on the throttle away, no down change required.

Keep in mind that R32GTST's have a 4.3 to 1 diff ratio and weigh 200 kgs less than your GTR. Similary comparing your GTR to a R33GTST with RB30 may lead to the wrong conclusion. So don't ignore the weight factor when you are working out optimal gearing or the extra transmission losses from the 4wd.

How often did you drive around 5th gear with the 2.6 litre? Not often (other than highway driving) I bet. With the 3 litre you just use a higher gear than you would with the 2.6 litre.

My suggestion, as it has been with 20 or so others that have had RB30DET's, drive it around first, then decide. So far not one of those guys has changed the diff ratio.

:pwned: cheers :O

Hi Gary:

it's not the top speed I'm wanting, it's the legs in lower gears. i know someone with a GTR and 26/30 and he suggests that it feels very short in the gears, from memory Cubes has remarked on the same thing.

i would like to take the drive it first then decide approach, i understood that getting the front diff out with the engine in place was almost impossible.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have an Elite 2500, honestly most of this has been a lot of smaller tasks chasing little details and a whole lot of life getting in the way of bigger projects. I don't mind too much looking at a spectrograph vs having audio knock ears. 
    • Nah nah nah nah. Don't do it. It's not all about the full throttle power delivery. The main "street fun" and drivability gains from smaller rear (in this case) is how you will have boost available from a low rpm when yo just roll onto the throttle. Think jinking in and out of traffic, coming out of roundabouts, etc etc, where you just want to roll onto the throttle a little and have the spooly noise from ~2000rpm and a swell of torque. More of what you've already achieved by going to 2.5. And then, towards the tail end of 2025 you can pull the turbo 4 out and put in a V8 like we originally suggested. :P
    • Cheers for the info mate, I'm old too, 60 years old next May, so a more linear delivery of the 0.86 would be better as baking tyres and snapping heads isn't on the cards for me or the car I assume a more linear power delivery would be better for engine and drivetrain reliability as well, IRT the torque load at lower RPM???, as well as lower EGT's???, if my understanding of that is correct, have I got that right??? I've only got a really basic understanding of turbo sizing and all there characteristics  Cheers for the useful information 
    • What kind of power delivery are you after? If it's nice and linear, the 0.86 would be better. If you're after bake tyres and head snaps on boost the 0.64 would be fun. I'm boring and old, so linear power is preferred. Lately I've been watching videos on Z06 Corvettes and super charged Mustangs.... 
×
×
  • Create New...