Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My car has a very lumpy idle. At 700-900rpm the rocks around and the idle just feels lumpy.

Someone pointed to the fact that this may be a symptom of aftermarket cams.

Does anyone know of a way to check to see if my RB25 has got aftermarket cams? The car came with lots of other goodies on it, so I wouldn't be too surprised if they were non standard items.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142867-lumpy-idle/
Share on other sites

Nah I havent checked this, but i do notice that at idle my car seems to burn a lot of fuel (black smoke out the exhaust).

I was poking around the engine bay this morning, and didnt notice anything out of place or loose - including the hoses/pipes...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142867-lumpy-idle/#findComment-2662462
Share on other sites

I've had the car just over a year, and its been lumpy since I bought it. I've had the PFC tuned a couple of times so if there was something wrong (ie. vacuum leak) i think they guys would have picked it up..

It came with:

Apexi Turbo

Injectors

PowerFC

Fuel Pump

etc etc..

I suspect that its got cams due to the chunky mid-range. If I have a look at the cams, is there any way to tell if they are std or aftermarket?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142867-lumpy-idle/#findComment-2662807
Share on other sites

I suspect that its got cams due to the chunky mid-range. If I have a look at the cams, is there any way to tell if they are std or aftermarket?

They should have markings on them

I know HKS ones have a HKS logo and the duration on them, so I'm assuming Tomei and whatever other brands make cams would have it too

I'm not sure about regrinds though

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142867-lumpy-idle/#findComment-2662813
Share on other sites

My car has a very lumpy idle. At 700-900rpm the rocks around and the idle just feels lumpy.

Someone pointed to the fact that this may be a symptom of aftermarket cams.

Does anyone know of a way to check to see if my RB25 has got aftermarket cams? The car came with lots of other goodies on it, so I wouldn't be too surprised if they were non standard items.

VCT solinoid

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142867-lumpy-idle/#findComment-2663161
Share on other sites

Mate 1st 3 things ill check are

1) AFR`s on Idle (but seeing your saying its rich removes this but still check they should be around 14.4)

2) Vacuum leak (do you have a boost guage it should read 19 hg)

3) idle air control valve (check if this is leaking not working correctly)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142867-lumpy-idle/#findComment-2663282
Share on other sites

If it has HKS Cams you will see HKS Cast into the cams by removing the oil cap and spinning it over a few times.

Unfortunately the duration is on the end where the cam gears bolt to and cant be seen easily. Only early HKS cams have them just under the HKS logo.

The tomei cams are stamped with serial numbers on the cam thrust washers. You might have to remove the rocker cover to see this one.

A couple of things to note.

Most GTST's have a baby smooth idle.

A 4'' exhaust will exhibit a bit of a lumpy idle but is more of a burble from the exhaust then engine idle

If cam timing is way out it can give the same symptoms

Probably the easiest guestimation is if your car has unusually strong mid/top end for the mods.

I imported a car a while back and it had stupid mid range even though it was on low boost at the time. I.e wheelspin in 1st and 2nd on 7 psi! Didnt think anything of it. I cleaned the TB and intake with upper engine cleaner a while later and it was running rough. I didnt remember what it originally ran like as I only drove it once and was away for 6 weeks OS so wasnt sure. Got my brother to look at it and he said it had cams, but sounds like the plugs are f&&*ed! Inspected through the oil cap and he said it had tomei markings on it- but there was no mention on the auction. I emailed a copy of the auction sheet and he said "it has tomei cams" but I couldnt translate/understand that part.

Which brings me to my last point. Once I put new plugs in it, ran a lot cleaner and smoother. Iriway and iritop plugs are great!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142867-lumpy-idle/#findComment-2665553
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • CTIS (Central Tire Inflation System) has existed since the 80's. I'm looking into buying a Hummer H1 and they generally included it. 
    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
    • It's most likely the bolt/bush where the cover bolts back wore and allowed cover to move forward.
    • Still haven't put the injectors and R35 AFM in so we can tune the bloody thing for the HG highflow it got mid last year! I think I can forecast the upgrade path to a bigger twin scroll, external gate, Haltech, flex setup, Samsonas, dis dat, etc will be .... a while away!
×
×
  • Create New...