Jump to content
SAU Community

Similarities Between Na & Turbo Manifolds

Drift Freak

By Drift Freak,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Drift Freak Collaborator

Drift Freak

Posted
Posted

Hi guys, I'm in the process of making my own frount mount intake manifold for my R32 GTS-T and was wondering if i can use my old naturally asperated intake runners as a base for the manifold mounting plate. The reason I'm asking as i don't want to remove the intake runners from my turbo motor as its my daily driver. So, any one got any idea??? Cheers guys

mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted

i'm not a big fan of front facing manifolds that aren't aftermarket. choping the stock manifold means that number 1 and 2 don't get nearly as much air as 5 and 6. even though it is pressurised, there is still little airflow going to the first cylinder. and number 6 will be running rather lean. your afr's will stay the same, but each individual cylinders afr will be screwed up.

chrissso Proficient

chrissso

Posted
Posted
i'm not a big fan of front facing manifolds that aren't aftermarket. choping the stock manifold means that number 1 and 2 don't get nearly as much air as 5 and 6. even though it is pressurised, there is still little airflow going to the first cylinder. and number 6 will be running rather lean. your afr's will stay the same, but each individual cylinders afr will be screwed up.

I'm curious, what have you got to back that up?

Drift Freak Collaborator

Drift Freak

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yeah i can understand what your saying mad082 but i'm not cutting the manifolds but unbolting the top half from the bottom runners and fabricating a new top chamber. I'm also going to shape the manifold much like the jun and plazmaman manifolds, aswell as use the trumpets on each individual runner to maximise good airflow. I'm not after huge gains just shorter intercooler pipes for better spool up and colder charged air. At the moment i'm running a HKS 2540 on my RB20 and it doesn't spool up till nearly 4thou and i guess with all the extra pipe work the cold air would soon become quite warm again.

And as for testing the manifold I am going to try and find a flow bench so i can hopefully get each runner fairly close to each other (hopefully) :)

fresh Rising Star

fresh

Posted
Posted

will make bugger all difference, u realise how much air a car goes thru when on full boost at high RPM

only the air touching the sides of the pipe would be affected by heat soak, and even then for a very brief period of time, will probably make bugger all difference

1kool34 Apprentice

1kool34

Posted
Posted

Point taken fresh, but if the manifold only costs me say $150 to make at work then spool times and tidiness of the engine bay is justification to undertake the project. So my question remains are the intake runners of the naturally asperated RB20 the same as the runners off the turbo RB20???? Pls help

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Borci88
      Borg Warner EFR Series Turbo's V 2.0

      By Borci88 · Posted

      It could be in the tune but in both cases it couldn't be completely solved or eliminated by some of the best tuners in victoria so I'm DOUBTFUL that it's in the tune or ECU but stranger things have happened of course. I've pondered that theory too but is there any theories that thinner and smaller ports overall would cause a turbo to spike? I would've thought it would just restrict it in general if it was small enough to make a difference. I wouldn't expect it to make a different at what is essentially sub 300kw at 4000rpm anyway. I think the next step is going to have to be the 6psi spring to rule out the idea that the gate is cracking open far too wide initially. At least that is the cheapest (free) thing to check initially.
    • GTSBoy
      Borg Warner EFR Series Turbo's V 2.0

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I'm thinking it is skinny NA Neo port sizing and cams. Somehow.
    • Piggaz
      Borg Warner EFR Series Turbo's V 2.0

      By Piggaz · Posted

      -5’s did it. 8474 did it. Not hot side related. ECU related? 🤨🤪
    • silviaz
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By silviaz · Posted

      Above you mentioned you only need to sand primer if there's an issue with it but with fillers it says the surface needs to be sanded to X grit beforehand. Does that sorta contradict that point as the primer hasn't been sanded yet? At the same time if I sand the primer, there's a good chance I'll expose the bare metal and I'm just chasing my tail at that point. Or I'll just use a sand sponge instead of sandpaper, it seems to be far finer in terms of abrasiveness as opposed to sandpaper. From what I understand, filler is like primer and needs scratches from the sandpaper to help it adhere to the panel. I realised the way I'm doing things is actually a bit counter productive as there's a chance after I put filler I will need to put epoxy primer again as opposed to putting the filler first and potentially no primer if I don't go to bare metal. Will keep this in my mind for the rest of my repairs.
    • Borci88
      Borg Warner EFR Series Turbo's V 2.0

      By Borci88 · Posted

      Not without making up a new screamer pipe from scatch I don't think based upon the angles of the current return. Backpressure shouldn't be an issue though as the straight gate isn't affected by backpressure in the same way that a poppet valve is, and on top of that the exhast system is 4" all the way through so there should be minimal pressure if any to begin with.
×
×
  • Create New...