Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hay guys

i will start from the beginning, i put a stereo in my car (R34 sedan) over the weekend, and when i was tuning it i didnt start the car, which ended in a flat battery, so we push started it. battery is fully charged again but when car is running it shows 15.8volts which i was told the alternator is overcharging.

has ne one got ne ideas how to fix this? or do i just buy a new alternator?

Cheers

Edited by Raistlin
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142935-overcharging-alternator/
Share on other sites

  Raistlin said:
hay guys

i will start from the beginning, i put a stereo in my car (R34 sedan) over the weekend, and when i was tuning it i didnt start the car, which ended in a flat battery, so we push started it. battery is fully charged again but when car is running it shows 15.8volts which i was told the alternator is overcharging.

has ne one got ne ideas how to fix this? or do i just buy a new alternator?

Cheers

First i would try turning off all the stereo, amps etc etc and see if it charges at the correct rate, 14.1 when cold and about 13.6 volts when warm.

The reason i say this is because you may have tapped into the voltage sence wire somehow so the alternator thinks the battery is low on voltage and will throw out a higher rate of charge.

  grim32 said:
First i would try turning off all the stereo, amps etc etc and see if it charges at the correct rate, 14.1 when cold and about 13.6 volts when warm.

The reason i say this is because you may have tapped into the voltage sence wire somehow so the alternator thinks the battery is low on voltage and will throw out a higher rate of charge.

just tryed that didnt change but it is sitting at about 15.48-9volts with battery light on all the time

It seems that on my PFC the battery volt is approx between 14.8-15.3.

I havent had any problems with the car's electrics or anything.

Would this be an issue? Alternator? Battery?

Also it seems as though when I turn on my headlights the voltage drops approx 0.5-0.9volts. Hmmmz..

  700HP-GTR33 said:
I have seen batteries explode...get it fixed by an auto elec.

As in explode in the engine bay ;) .

Take it serious if you don't want things to melt ...stop messing with it and get an auto elec....please,

your killing me. :P

Get your battery checked, if it has a faulty cell you will have an open circuit. The alternator thinks it is charging a flat battery so max's the voltage.

BTW your battery will not hold a good charge if this is the case.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
  • Create New...