Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 251
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

rb25 auto awd - front driveshaft pulled for rwd dyno

249rwkw at 17/16psi 3rd gear

Garrett GT3076 700177-5015 IWBB Turbocharger with ported Nissan 45V4 front / AVO .73 rear housings

60mm diameter 84-trim GT30 turbine and 76mm diameter 7/14 bladed compressor wheel in 56.9-trim

JDM S15 Silvia 450/480cc injectors

z32 afm, tomei head, 3" exhaust, remap

I used a Dynapack hub dyno, they read higher than DD - its not magically higher but enough to make a difference. I don't know what the difference is, the one I did 300kw on is thought of by a few (who are used to Dynapacks) consider it a heart breaker for hub dynos but still no DD style heart breaker.

I know this is probably annoying for you, honestly it was for me too and its all my fault - so sorry about this. I have never removed the PRV as I don't have some vacuum hose long enough to reach from the wastegate to the boost source... the PRV has been spliced into my old one since I got it. I went and grabbed some the other day and went to put it on for the dyno tune (which was booked at the last moment) and found it didn't fit. The result of that is the PRV keeps snapping open and closed and stuffing up the boost curve and makes it not a realistic representation :D

For what its worth, when the PRV settles down the boost holds very very stable - I am going to get some vacuum hose that suits and am being hassled into putting my car on a dyno day in a couple of weeks so may end up just giving in to that without the valve and seeing what that does to the curve. I'll post the boost plot from that :happy: I didn't even bother getting this one printed.

Its definitely going to make it build less, not more aggressively when I remove it - the curve will be more consistant. Strangely it doesn't seem to behave the way it appeared to on the dyno on the road.... Not sure what was up with that.

  • 2 months later...

just read through most of this thread, some very informative stuff in here!

seems there is not much love for the 3071 .82; is the 3076 .82 really that much better for someone chasing 260-270rwkw?

just read through most of this thread, some very informative stuff in here!

seems there is not much love for the 3071 .82; is the 3076 .82 really that much better for someone chasing 260-270rwkw?

3076 .82 would be the way to go. you will get bored with 270rwkw. atleast with the 3076 you have some more power left in it.

my 3076 makes 335rwkw on e85.

Good to see this thread still going! I see it a lot when I am googleing.

how do some of u guys get over 300kw with only 17psi on 3076r? hmmmm

I made 314rwkw on 18psi with water methanol injection. Torque was 720nm from 3000rpm all the way to the limiter.

mods:

Garrett GT3076, 0.6 compressor cover, 0.63 rear housing

Powerfc (Tuned by me)

Water Methanol Injection

Standard Engine

Standard Manifolds

Front mount Intercooler

Big Exhaust

Nismo 555cc Injectors

Standard FPR

Nismo 275lph In tank pump

just read through most of this thread, some very informative stuff in here!

seems there is not much love for the 3071 .82; is the 3076 .82 really that much better for someone chasing 260-270rwkw?

They aren't really that great. Better off with a GT3076 with a 0.63 rear.

3076 .82 would be the way to go. you will get bored with 270rwkw. atleast with the 3076 you have some more power left in it.

my 3076 makes 335rwkw on e85.

I'll be keen to test that with the RB30.

what would be the difference in response though?

not with a 0.63 rear.

I have a like new 0.63 internal gate rear housing for sale if anybody wants it, and a dump pipe to cat to suit. I'm unloading it because I have a RB2530 and the 0.63 rear might be fun, but is a little too restrictive for the RB30s extra breathing.

Sale thread here:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...ml#entry5264403

  • 6 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...

i'm looking at buying one of these

700177-5007

gt3076R

external gate

front trim 56, .60 ar front surge slotted

.84 rear trim, .82 4 bolt rear

i have the option of the .60 or .70 front

is tthere going to be much difference?

my combination at the moment is a standard rb25det

Ive got a 6boost and plazmaman

was recently making 300rwkw on a standard exhaust manifold. 3076R.70 front. .82 rear internal gated

i

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm firmly on the "zero compliance is good compliance" for FUCAs. I'd be looking to solid metal joints even if the primary reason for having them is because they facilitate the twist in the arm. I have never been more happy with the way the front suspension behaves than I have since I got rid of the FUCA bushes. Even the thin little (short lived) poly bushes in the Whiteline adjustables have too much compliance for my liking. It probably won't be long before I have sphericals nearly everywhere, probably including both top and bottom arms in the rear, and I'll start complaining about the increased costs for dental work. But I will be enjoying the driving more, I'm sure.
    • Plus, you'll get great experience in bedding in pads!
    • I have offset Nismo brackets so the fact the gktechs can pivot is less important to me. I have 170mm JIC arms with bushings - but they provide no adjustment and I'm not sure whiteline eccentric bushings will fit them (I don't want to ruin the bushings currently in them to find out). Ideally I want something with bushings + adjustment; hence why I'd like to find a pair of these. Unfortunately they aren't easy to find.
    • @Vee37 How much do you really care about finding these pads again? If your pads are quiet, work well and produce minimal dust, really isn't that enough? If you are set on finding the exact pads again, I suppose I'd do something like this -  Visit your local Jax, find out what brand of pads they carry. If the Jax workshop you previously went to had the pads on the shelf, then you can almost guarantee it will be of said brand.   I'm guessing you don't have the receipt for the previous work and pads. Can you visit a Jax workshop and see if they can look up your previous job to see what pads were fitted?  Still no luck? Put your stalker hat on, find the staff that used to work at the Jax store and ask them. Talk to local workshops, try to find out where the mechanics went to. Talk to Jax workshops, maybe they relocated to another workshop. When it comes to mechanics, its a small world. You'd be surprised how easy it is to track someone down. If these ideas don't work, shit will start getting crazy very quickly.... You could find out every brand and model of pad that fits that car... and try them individually ticking each off the list if it wasn't the one you were looking for.... If you go down this path your going to want to learn how to swap pads yourself, it is very easy, takes minimal tools and space. If you have room to park the car you have room to swap the pads. Plus you have the advantage of making sure all the brake hardware goes back in so they won't squeal! 
    • You miss spelled bearings...
×
×
  • Create New...