Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 251
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

rb25 auto awd - front driveshaft pulled for rwd dyno

249rwkw at 17/16psi 3rd gear

Garrett GT3076 700177-5015 IWBB Turbocharger with ported Nissan 45V4 front / AVO .73 rear housings

60mm diameter 84-trim GT30 turbine and 76mm diameter 7/14 bladed compressor wheel in 56.9-trim

JDM S15 Silvia 450/480cc injectors

z32 afm, tomei head, 3" exhaust, remap

I used a Dynapack hub dyno, they read higher than DD - its not magically higher but enough to make a difference. I don't know what the difference is, the one I did 300kw on is thought of by a few (who are used to Dynapacks) consider it a heart breaker for hub dynos but still no DD style heart breaker.

I know this is probably annoying for you, honestly it was for me too and its all my fault - so sorry about this. I have never removed the PRV as I don't have some vacuum hose long enough to reach from the wastegate to the boost source... the PRV has been spliced into my old one since I got it. I went and grabbed some the other day and went to put it on for the dyno tune (which was booked at the last moment) and found it didn't fit. The result of that is the PRV keeps snapping open and closed and stuffing up the boost curve and makes it not a realistic representation :D

For what its worth, when the PRV settles down the boost holds very very stable - I am going to get some vacuum hose that suits and am being hassled into putting my car on a dyno day in a couple of weeks so may end up just giving in to that without the valve and seeing what that does to the curve. I'll post the boost plot from that :happy: I didn't even bother getting this one printed.

Its definitely going to make it build less, not more aggressively when I remove it - the curve will be more consistant. Strangely it doesn't seem to behave the way it appeared to on the dyno on the road.... Not sure what was up with that.

  • 2 months later...

just read through most of this thread, some very informative stuff in here!

seems there is not much love for the 3071 .82; is the 3076 .82 really that much better for someone chasing 260-270rwkw?

just read through most of this thread, some very informative stuff in here!

seems there is not much love for the 3071 .82; is the 3076 .82 really that much better for someone chasing 260-270rwkw?

3076 .82 would be the way to go. you will get bored with 270rwkw. atleast with the 3076 you have some more power left in it.

my 3076 makes 335rwkw on e85.

Good to see this thread still going! I see it a lot when I am googleing.

how do some of u guys get over 300kw with only 17psi on 3076r? hmmmm

I made 314rwkw on 18psi with water methanol injection. Torque was 720nm from 3000rpm all the way to the limiter.

mods:

Garrett GT3076, 0.6 compressor cover, 0.63 rear housing

Powerfc (Tuned by me)

Water Methanol Injection

Standard Engine

Standard Manifolds

Front mount Intercooler

Big Exhaust

Nismo 555cc Injectors

Standard FPR

Nismo 275lph In tank pump

just read through most of this thread, some very informative stuff in here!

seems there is not much love for the 3071 .82; is the 3076 .82 really that much better for someone chasing 260-270rwkw?

They aren't really that great. Better off with a GT3076 with a 0.63 rear.

3076 .82 would be the way to go. you will get bored with 270rwkw. atleast with the 3076 you have some more power left in it.

my 3076 makes 335rwkw on e85.

I'll be keen to test that with the RB30.

what would be the difference in response though?

not with a 0.63 rear.

I have a like new 0.63 internal gate rear housing for sale if anybody wants it, and a dump pipe to cat to suit. I'm unloading it because I have a RB2530 and the 0.63 rear might be fun, but is a little too restrictive for the RB30s extra breathing.

Sale thread here:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...ml#entry5264403

  • 6 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...

i'm looking at buying one of these

700177-5007

gt3076R

external gate

front trim 56, .60 ar front surge slotted

.84 rear trim, .82 4 bolt rear

i have the option of the .60 or .70 front

is tthere going to be much difference?

my combination at the moment is a standard rb25det

Ive got a 6boost and plazmaman

was recently making 300rwkw on a standard exhaust manifold. 3076R.70 front. .82 rear internal gated

i

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I think my main complaint with your idea is that there is a veneer of idealism spread across it. You want the simple numbers to make it easier, but all they will do is make it easier for someone to come to the wrong conclusion because the fine details will kick them in the nuts. As it is right now, the tiny bit of arithmetic is NOT the obstacle to understanding what will fit and what will not fit. The reality of trying it is what determines whether it will fit. If you had a "standard rule" that R34 GTT guards have that magic 100mm space from the hub face to whichever side you were worried about, and someone said "excellent, this wheel is only 98mm in that direction, I'll just go spend $4k on them and jam them on my sick ride".....they would just as likely find out that the "standard rule" is not true because the rear subframe is offset to one side by a fairly typical (but variable) 8mm on their car and they only have 92mm on one side and 108 on the other.
    • It still combines inches with mm, especially when you have .5 inches involved, and mm and inches that can go in either direction. This would give a clear idea on both sides of the rim, right away, with no arithmetic. Even better if somebody gives you the dimensions of the arch of multiple cars. i.e GTR may be 125mm, a A80 Supra may be 117mm, or something along those lines. Yes, you can 'know' that going from a 10in rim to a 10.5in rim with the same offset moves both sides about 6mm, but you still have to 'know' that and do the math. Often it's combined. People are going from 9.5 +27 to 10.5 +15. You may do the math to know it, but if it was going from (I had to go look it up to be sure) 241mm/2 - 27 - 93.5mm from the center line to (more math) 266/2 - 15 (118mm) from the center line. Versus 93mm vs 118mm. It's right there. If you know you have a GTT with 100mm guards you can see right away that one is close to flush and the other absolutely won't work. And when someone says "Oh the GTR is 120mm" suddenly you see that the 10.5 +15 is about perfect. (or you go and buy rims with approximately 118mm outward guard space) I think it's safe to say that given one of the most common questions in all modified cars is "How do offsets work" and "How do I know if wheels will fit on my car" that this would be much simpler... Of course, nothing will really change and nobody is going to remanufacture wheels and ditch inches and offset based on this conversation :p We'll all go "18x9+30 will line up pretty close to the guards for a R34 GTT (84mm)" but 'pretty close' is still not really defined (it is now!) and if you really care you still have go measure. Yes it depends on camber and height and dynamic movement, but so do all wheels no matter what you measure it for.
    • But offsets are simple numbers. 8" wheel? Call it 200mm, near enough. +35 offset? OK, so that means the hub face is that far out from the wheel centreline. Which is 2s of mental arithmetic to get to 65mm to outer edge and 135mm to inner. It's hardly any more effort for any other wheel width or offset. As I said, I just close my eyes and can see a picture of the wheel when given the width and offset. That wouldn't help me trust that a marginal fitment would actually go in and clear everything, any more than the supposedly simple numbers you're talking about. I dunno. Maybe I just automatically do numbers.
    • Sure! But you at least have simple numbers instead of 8.5 inches +/mm, relative to your current rims you do maths with as well, and/or compare with OEM diameter, which you also need to know/research/confirm..
×
×
  • Create New...