Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well, i wouldve been rolling on work meisters if they werent lost on busfreight.

18 x 9.5 +24

18 x 10.5 +24

they are currently investigating their whereabouts ;)

what are you running now, last i heard you sold the effors to get something else?

Edited by A31cefiro

yeah efors are gone... as my navy blue track car is for sale

got a daily black sports touring factory 5spd rb20de... so far... ive done nardi, dildo knob, headunit, trust pod, bride zeta III, silkroad section rma8 coilovers, straight pipe rear section + ecv, guard flare, chrome grille, square headlights and late model tailights... my pink 5 stud/33 brake/kaaz 2 way/solid spacer cradle is out of the blue one going into the new black one next weekend aswell as my front s14 5 stud with 33 brakes...

also got my vented bonnet going on the new one...

sorting out wheel options atm

to use my bolton fender flares or not... thats the question... 500 to get them done like J's blue one from japan... or use stock guards - add bog and make some nice looking arches (not as good as the glass overfenders) for 800 bucks...

Edited by Hella Flush
  • 2 weeks later...

Stich Evolution 18x10 +8 Offset F 18x11 -1 offset R

8mm spacers on the front, helps clear calipers

Falken Azenis ST115 235 F 245 R

Bolt on flares smoothed over, front wheels inside the guards around 5-10mm... rears sit out around 10-15mm

Not alot of camber, prolly >2deg front and >1deg rear.... Lots of toe in on the rear though.

DSC01330.jpg

8J on the front with 235's and 25mm spacer

7.5J on the rear with 255's and 20mm spacer

still gotta roll fenders prolly gonna run 10J front and 9J rear in the future. with front over fender. not sure what im gonna use for the rear gaurds yet.

ahh sorry... i run it wider in the front for Touge (mountain roads)....

on the track i run it the other way... high speed drifts, or long eairly entry drags arent as common in the mountains..

i actually ruduce the stability of the car, in a sense, beacause it helps to swim through those tight mountain roads a little better.

Edited by 4DoorWhore
  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey, it's me! Though honestly, if I had 20M in my bank account tomorrow, I would not want to be rid of my car all of the sudden - Which makes me think this is money stuff, not "I actually hate car" stuff. I'd probably double down and buy even more trinkets and fun things for it. If this is not you, then sell it cheaper. It will sell at a certain price after all.
    • This is the LCA mount reloctaion kit. Self explanatory in its description. https://au.gktech.com/products/s13-180sx-r32-subframe-anti-squat-reduction-weld-in-kit?_pos=62&_fid=1e812d392&_ss=c These are the alloy subframe bush inserts that I am using. I like them. https://au.gktech.com/products/rear-subframe-slip-in-collars?_pos=29&_fid=1e812d392&_ss=c Alternatively, if you have original and shitty bushes, you might consider outright replacement with poly. https://au.gktech.com/products/polyurethane-rear-subframe-bushes?_pos=28&_fid=1e812d392&_ss=c I would also higly recommend that you look into adjustable RUCAs and tension rods, so you can sort out the camber and bump steer behaviour, especially if the car will be any more than ~15mm lower than stock. I would also highly recommend the GKTech FUCAs, although you really should do some research and learning on the subjetc of R32 FUCAs before making any decisions. All of this will be criticaly difficult to get through a TÜV inspection too, if that happens to be relevant to you. Note that if you do install the relocation kit, you will absolutely have to replace the associated bushes with spherical joints (you can read all about that on the product page) or upgrade the LCAs also.
    • I picked up my block and head last week and have been slowly assembling it since then. Pictures I took earlier this week. The rest of the auxiliaries are on now. I just have my intake manifold runners to tap for my WMI direct port setup before putting it back on. I should hopefully have the motor back in by this weekend.   
×
×
  • Create New...