Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys

Please help, yes ive read every page that has somthing to do with 02 sensors on this site.

This is my situation

On my Cefiro, i pulled off the dump heat shield and left it off. This caused the WIRE AND PLUG for the 02 sensor to be melted to pieces. The whole loom was roasted as well, leaving only about 10 cm of loom near the chassis.

I have ordered a new 02 sensor alredy picking it up this afternoon and ive got a 3 pin connector as well.

Now my problem is.

What sort of wire can I use to extend the 3 wire loom, what is the sort of Heat proof coating I put over it and also lastly

HOW THE HELL CAN I REMOVE THE 02 SENSOR? I can get a Open ended 22 over it, I can get plenty of leverage, AND ive even Soaked it in Rost Off (angriest version of WD40/Penetrene) and used all my strength but the thing wont budge.

Am I just weak or is there another way - I cant get hold of a 02 socket (Repco/autobarn/supercheap) dont have one - so any other suggestions?

Hope you guys can help

Regards

Kim

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/143077-urgent-help/
Share on other sites

most exaust shops will have a nut that you can weld onto ya manifold for ya 02 sensor . try heating ta old one up with a oxy if ya have one or try putting a pipe on ya spanner for more leavearge

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/143077-urgent-help/#findComment-2666033
Share on other sites

it's not easy getting off.. you can run the car without the o2 sensor for a while if you need to. Maybe try undoing it when the dump is warm. Obviously not fuse-the-fingers hot, but once it's started to cool down to touchable levels.

just zip-tie the o2 plug to the firewall, will stop it flopping down and melting in the future. That seems to have worked for me. If you want to insulate it (say if you run at regular full boost levels), I'd use some of the stuff you use to insulate turbo lines.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/143077-urgent-help/#findComment-2666519
Share on other sites

Maybe have to take the dump off to get enough leverage? that's what I had to do with my original dump pipe to get it off as a last resort.

where would you buy insulative stuff, gordo?

will places like supercheap have that?

Try Revolution racegear, there is one in moorooka in bris..

http://www.revolutionracegear.com.au/?fa=R...6332E944FB94049

Either that or a specialist hose shop may have it to insulate fuel lines, etc.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/143077-urgent-help/#findComment-2667268
Share on other sites

Had the same problem before... surely it was a biatch to take off. O2 sensor wrench was way too expensive ($45 for a socket... forget it).

So, went to Bunnings to the plumbing section, got some sort of wrench for plumbing / piping, octangular in shape, fits perfectly. Used a long stainless steel rod along the wrench for leverage, and half a can of WD40 later... hurrah!

I hope that helps..

DD

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/143077-urgent-help/#findComment-2667805
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Use a 2' length of hose (that's 2 foot, not 2 inches) as a stethoscope to localise the source of the ticking. From cam covers? From exhaust or turbo manifold gasket? From injectors? From lower down in the engine? Etc. Use a timing light to set the timing. Put Redline Lightweight Shockproof in the box. It's not the very best thing for the box, but it will take a box that refuses to engage a gear with other oil, and make it engage a gear. I had to put it in when I installed the R33 box I have in my car. It would not select ANY gear when running. Smurf jizz made it work. That was >10 years ago and I still use it. I'm stuck with it now. Failing that - rebuild the box.
    • Well done Duncan. The fuel tank bulkhead lid is also in great condition (some of mine were stuffed). These are now out of production and good ones like that are becoming hard to come by.
    • Wow that's a steal, you've done well there. 
    • Exterior LEDs R34 2Dr R34 4Dr Position Lamp T10 T10 Winker front T20S T20S side T10 T10 rear T20S S25S150 Anti-hyfla relay TYPE3 TYPE3 tail T10 T20W Stop Lamps T20W T20W High Mount T16 T16 back T16 T20S number T10 T10 trunk T10 T10 Interior LED Item No.     Map Lamp BA9S single-sided     Room Lamps T10×31     Trunk Lamp T10     meter Early T6.5 pedestal     final T6.5 pedestal     NISMO T6.5 pedestal     Liquid crystal section T6.5 pedestal     Winker T6.5 pedestal     High Beam T6.5 pedestal     3 SERIES METER Early T6.5 pedestal     final T6.5 pedestal     NISMO T6.5 pedestal     air conditioner Early Liquid Crystal T3     Late LCD T4.2 Short     button T4.2 Middle     Hazard SW T3 Pedestal Short     Keyring T5     Cigar Socket T5
    • Howdy all,   I had my rb25det S2 rebuilt and finally started it today but have run into a few issues  Engine sounds like a a diesel easiest way to summarise like small ticking, gets louder when revs are slightly adjusted  The engine builder repainted the engine cover leaving no where for me to go off with lining up the CAS so have it as central as possible so not sure it that could be affecting it?, changed the gearbox fluid too but won’t seem to go into gear when running, and only 1 to 4 when off having a hard time finding 5th and reverse anyone got any ideas or a base for me to start off? much appreciated 
×
×
  • Create New...