Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys,

before you say anything i searched and been reading for like 1 hr+

wanted to ask what you all thought on coilovers for r33gts-t....i can get buddy club or tein super streets for same price.

both fully adjustable and same specs basically but not sure what would b better option.

any ideas

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/143091-buddy-club-or-tein-coilovers/
Share on other sites

what about the bilstein option that SK is running in his group buy?

from what he says, they are more suited to the street..

i think the biggest problem with adjustable coilover type setups is that they ride too firm for the terrible quality streets that local governments serve us up

  • 2 weeks later...
buddy club is taiwan.

tein is japaneses. tein is better

Im in Sydney, nismo.com.au they sell tein for $1860 and instalation $350 more...is it worth? if some one know where I can get tein bit cheaper + instalation please tell me....you can PM me...thanks guys.

  • 8 months later...

100% wrong to the guy above. Buddy club coilovers are MADE IN JAPAN and not in Taiwan. IN FACT. Buddy club is still a Japanese company run by Mr. Kakimoto in Japan. They were going down a few years ago and AAI Motorsports (Taiwan) injected money into the falling company. Buddy club Japan are still very much running the show.

Now for some more real facts. The Buddy club design is superior to the Tein design too, here's just a few points:

- Buddy clubs have 2 years replace ment warranty over Tein's 1 year warranty where they take your shock and rebuild it. IE: If you break your BC's they replace it, not fix it.

- Buddy club coilovers have dual height adjustment. This is huge news guys. What it means is that you can lower your car without sacrificing shock travel. IE: With the Teins, you lower you car and you get less shock travel. Not so with the BC's (both N+ and Racing Spec Damper). Hope everyone gets that. It's super important.

- The Buddy club N+ is in a price war with Tein Flex, not with the Super Streets. The Tein Super Streets are an entry level coilover with very soft spring rates. In my opinion, the N+ kills the Super Streets on a performance and value level (yes I have tried both extensively both on street and track).

- The Buddy clubs offer Pillow Ball Uppermounts and adjustable camber on some models (depending on your car), with Tein it's an expensive optional extra.

- The Buddy club coilovers feature forged perches where the Teins do not.

Hope that helps.

Buddy club over super streets every time.

I agree with Justin on pretty much everything. Though once you get up to the tien monoflex you are starting to compare apples with apples feature wise.

N spec ( i assume n spec at that price) vs super street there really is no competition.

Oh shit. Just realized how old this thread is!

Edited by BHDave

For street & some canyon driving, which would be the better buy, Tein Monoflex or the BC N+? I do not track the car at all but wish for a firm yet have some compliant travel since the road i drives is pretty shitty everyday.

My Nismo R-Tunes for my GTT is leaking on the front driver side. Not sure of whether a rebuild is the way to go.

driftmeister - I'm sure the N+ would be fine for your needs. The road I travel on daily, Paramatta road, is shocking. I drive an S2000 and have the N+ on it. I was recently offered the top of the line Racing Spec Damper but decided against it as I'm so happy with the N+'s ride, which is firm, but very able to soak up different kinds of bumps on Sydney's bad roads.

With the N+ set to full soft I find it too soft. With it set to full stiff it's so bumpy it's funny. That means I get a lot fo adjustablility with the 15 clicks and it took me a week of playing with damper settings front and back to get the ride which is perfect for me. The stock S2000's ride is quite crashy in my opinion, the N+ does a mcuh better job of soaking up the vad roads than the stock suspension did.

I also track my cars quite often (I have a GT-R too, not with Buddy clubs though, it has higher end Tein RA's) and the N+ is great for track work as well.

Fujiwara - "Aus' spec" sounds like a marketing ploy to me. What exactly is "Aus. spec"? I've tried so many different Japanese coilovers, some are more meant for race, some are more meant for street and none of them are specifically made for 'Japanese roads', they are simply designed to either lean towards track work, or street work. Tein Super Streets are so soft (I found them way too soft actually, hit the brakes and the whole car dips up and down up and down like a see saw!) and compliant straight out of Japan. I don't see how anyone could, or would make them any softer and badge them as "Aus. spec".

Justinfox : Thanks for your informative feedback. I like the R-Tunes cos they are firm but the spring rate is quite high and shocks has limited settings (Front 4 and Rear 8). Till now i cannot figure out what setting i should use if front set at 3, so is the rear suppose to be 6? Since the front is just starting to leak, i will rebuild it for the moment while i start sourcing for the BC N+.

Cheers!

Right now, Buddy Club are offering $500 discount if you trade in your coilovers on your car for a set of BC N+ or BC Racing Spec.

Condition is the AFTERMARKET coilovers have to be on your car.

And you have to purchase/install them at a buddy club dealer.

FULL 2 YEAR REPLACEMENT WARRANTY

tempting for me as my HKS are annoying...

But should i fork out $500 more for the racing spec...

But should i fork out $500 more for the racing spec...

I had the same dilemma. I'll be the first to admit that I am a brand whore and love to go for the top shelf stuff, all the time. But in this case I had to make a little more mature decision and since my car is a daily driver that will see the track only once a month I went for the N+. Despite many people running the Racing Spec Damper on the street, The Racing Spec Damper really is primarily designed for track work. I've read of people running them on the street but at the softest damper setting. That doesn't sound too right to me as I prefer to have a bit of play either way (soft/hard). I'd still love to try the Racing Spec Damper too though. Curious as to how much harder they really are.

Just one question, For the BC N+, is the 15 setting for front & rear adjustment ? I notice the spring rate for GTT is 10/200 Front & 8/240 rear, what does the 200 & 240 refer to?

Im from Malaysia and don't think they have a buddy club dealer here for me to enjoy the rebate. Will find a grey importer to help me out.

Just one question, For the BC N+, is the 15 setting for front & rear adjustment ? I notice the spring rate for GTT is 10/200 Front & 8/240 rear, what does the 200 & 240 refer to?

Im from Malaysia and don't think they have a buddy club dealer here for me to enjoy the rebate. Will find a grey importer to help me out.

Yup the N+ has 15 clicks of damper adjustment. The 200 front and 240 rear refers to the spring length (top coil to bottom coil).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Is there a diameter difference in the stock to Nismo? If so, the weight alone won't be indicative when comparing flywheels of the same diameter, since the radius of the flywheel acts on the moment of inertia with a square factor, where as mass is linear. Roughly going from a 4.5kg flywheel with radius 20cm, to a 9kg flywheel with radius 14cm would see them act the same. This calc is just here to act as a brief numbers comparison and reflects no actual RB flywheel diameters etc. it also assumes even weight distribution (thickness) throughout.
    • It seems this could be due to a restructure/team direction change... Or... You're working with a different category of vehicle... Or you've decided you'd rather be able to play with your own cars again...   I'm hoping the latter...
    • had 4 weeks off over xmas and well did some stuff to the shed and BRZ, well short of is I don't work full time in supercars anymore as of yesterday.........
    • Did you get any down time over Christmas, or have you had any since to play with this? Or have you given up and are trying to get yourself a second hand V8SC instead?
    • A random thought I had just before I hit "Submit on this post". If brake fluid, in a container in my garage that has never been opened goes bad after 18 months, why can I leave it in my car for 24 months in an "unsealed container"... Secondly, some other digging, and brake fluid manufacturers seem to be saying 5 year shelf life... Me thinks there line on 18 months for an unsealed bottle is pretty much horse shit marketing spin. Kind of like how if you drive a car and don't run a turbo timer your turbo and motor will die horribly...   Where I started on this though... Someone (me) started down a bit of a rabbit hole, I don't quite have the proper equipment to do Equilibrium Reflux boiling per the proper test standards. I did a little digging on YouTube, and this was the first video I found on someone attempting to "just boil it". This video isn't overly scientific, as we don't have a known reference for his test either. Inaccuracy in his equipment could have him reaching the 460 to 470f boiling point range in reality. In the video, using a laser temp gun, he claims his Dot3 that's been open in his florida garage for over a year gets to about 420 to 430 fahrenheit (215 to 221c) Doing some googling, I located an MSDS for that specific oil, and from new, it claims a dry boiling point of 460 to 470f. Unfortunately they don't list a wet boiling point for us to see how far it degraded toward its "wet" point. While watching it I was thinking "I wonder what the flash point is..." turns out its only 480f for that specific brake fluid....   As for testing the oil's resistance, I might not be able to accurately do that unfortunately. Resistance level will be quite a LOT higher than my system can read I suspect based on some research. However, I might be able to do it by measuring the current when I apply a specific voltage. I won't have an actual water % value, but I'll have some values I can compare between the multitude of fluids. I'll run some vague calculations later and see if I should be able to read any reliable amount of current. These calcs will be based on some values I've found for other oils, and see how close I'll need my terminals together. From memory I can get down to 1pA accuracy on the DMM. I don't think my IOT Power Tester has any better resolution.    
×
×
  • Create New...