Mag86's Skyline Project

[Factory 5]

edit

Edited June 28, 2007 by MAG86

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

I do not want money out of you, I can not be farked asking...

called you, smsed you, pm'd you, no reply... and your constantly out of credit.

I initially sold you the damn farken SMIC for $20, not $45, but now have copped a $22.50 postage fee for no farken reason because of you.

so I'm left with no money, a SMIC, and -$22.50 and when I asked you to pay me the postage cost and you refused telling me shit that I can sell the SMIC for more to make back the money I lost.

Inconsiderate fool.

and about your wife, I am very sorry to hear, hope she gets better. Like I told you before, if you did not have the money at least tell me I can wait, then again I did for like 3 weeks till you decided to pick up your stupid phone.

[Factory 5]

PM SENT.

[Factory 5]

Hey works 510...A mate from NSW is interested in the con-rods, so if you are actually after them let me know eh!

Apparently there are 2 x types of L20et, early type have strong as F!#&*K internals, and this is an early type!!(1981)

the cam are different over the years too, so that MAY go as well, just need to inspect which one it is (self oiling or oil squirters...)

[works 510]

Most l6's have a cam oiler i believe.

Dont worry about the rods, im just more interested to know the length for future regerence

[Factory 5]

HEY NIGGAZ!!!!

picked up the L20et today!

finally time to start getting on with the job at hand!!!!

only thing im missing is intake pipes... the whole lot is there ready to be attacked with the toolbox....

[Factory 5]

i stripped the L20et down over the weekend... not hard at all

the oil pump was so easy to get out... just undo bolts and it in ya hands in a jiffy! i thought i was going to have to take all the timing cover of and chain and shit.

but the rest is one heavy fekker to move by ya self... i lifted the block/head/internals 3m in my car port... very sore back now!

when i start stripping my spare L24e i will note the differences of the oil pumps so ppl here can see for themselves...

the hardest part was prying the sump off.... it was the biatch of the day.

pics to come....

[GTR30]

i stripped the L20et down over the weekend... not hard at all

the oil pump was so easy to get out... just undo bolts and it in ya hands in a jiffy! i thought i was going to have to take all the timing cover of and chain and shit.

but the rest is one heavy fekker to move by ya self... i lifted the block/head/internals 3m in my car port... very sore back now!

when i start stripping my spare L24e i will note the differences of the oil pumps so ppl here can see for themselves...

the hardest part was prying the sump off.... it was the biatch of the day.

pics to come....

[/quot

good to hear you're ripping into it Andrew... post some pics, or send me some in an email..

and watch the back... i did mine in when i rebuilt both manifolds after a slight exhaust gasket leak that pissed me off cause i could hear it but no one else could... anyway, putting 52 new hose clamps on, and new hoses (super tuff ones - had a few cooling leaks that nearly blew up the motor and didn't want it happening again) now i have these farking hoses on there that will never come off.. makes changing anything difficult.. to give you and example.. the oil return t the sump took me and 3 other mates two days to put on!!!

sorry to hear about the misses, and hope she's doing better and i'll talk to ya soon

[Factory 5]

how the hell do i get the crank off?

tell me before i bust something!!!

[stagefumer11]

how the hell do i get the crank off?

tell me before i bust something!!!

have you undone all the main crank caps ? The center one needs a bolt screewed into the center of it. Then you pull it upwards.

I;m sure you will have fun removing the front crank bolt. mine = 1/2 strong arm, Hammer handle on a counter wieght on the crank. And a 6ft bar on the end of the strong arm. Alot of jumping lol!

[Factory 5]

yeh the front crank bolt!!!!

i thought i was going to really snap something!!

for a second i was thinking it was a part of the crank!!!

oxy torch time!!!

[ceecee]

mate, whats going on with the hand brake bits, are ya doin thim or aint ya. let me know and i'll move on or take em off and i'll pay ya!!

[works 510]

Dans l20b seen about 10,000rpm in a mis change and that front pulley bolt and flywheel bolts came loose!!!

Arg interested in them rods again for my z18et build...only need 4 of

[Factory 5]

Dans l20b seen about 10,000rpm in a mis change and that front pulley bolt and flywheel bolts came loose!!!

Arg interested in them rods again for my z18et build...only need 4 of

ceecee its coming home this weekend, so i will get cracking with the parts.

if yo are in melb come over and gimme a hand!

and works510, the rods are yours, i just gotta figure out how to get them off! (Stewart Wilkins wanted them and offered $100 for the set, but im sure you got something i can swap them for???)

[stagefumer11]

Dont heat the crank/bolt to remove it. Just get a good strong arm, the right size socket and a extension for leaverage. It will come off mine did Made a HUGE crack sound. LOL. will scare you

Edited May 30, 2007 by stagefumer11

[Factory 5]

OK things are starting to come along, i have a roadworthy exhaust, plus NISSCO said they can press new ball joints into my existing control arms etc. fo r a reasonable price...plus they have a few other steering mods they like to do on R30's (bracing the steering box to stop firewall flex??)

now im going over the HR30 loom i have (came with the L20et package)

there seems to be something missing!

does anyone know much about the " FUEL PUMP CONTROL MODULE" as i dont have one! it is meant to have 4 wires... as seen in the attatched pics

any suggestiond on WTF im gonna do??

Edited June 28, 2007 by MAG86

[stagefumer11]

OK things are starting to come along, i have a roadworthy exhaust, plus NISSCO said they can press new ball joints into my existing control arms etc. fo r a reasonable price...plus they have a few other steering mods they like to do on R30's (bracing the steering box to stop firewall flex??)

now im going over the HR30 loom i have (came with the L20et package)

there seems to be something missing!

does anyone know much about the " FUEL PUMP CONTROL MODULE" as i dont have one! it is meant to have 4 wires... as seen in the attached pics

any suggestion on WTF im gonna do??

Fuel pump control modules are a waste of time, If you even think of upgrading your fuel pump from the factory one. you will run into problems. The control module is only a stepping voltage unit running off the AFM. Drops it down to around 8volts for idle. I burnt mine out when i put a upgraded to a big 600hp bosh unit.. Just run a good power feed from the battery, Do a relay switch from the ignition. You should be fine

This is what it looks like with no covering,

Its unpluged as you can see, And next to it is the 30amp 5 pin relay i wired in. hell. HAHA talk about messy days back then

[stagefumer11]

I can get brand new control arms for around $50 each. You should be able to get them over there, Dont trust pressing these ball joints out. I had one done and it fell out doing 80k around a corner. That was intresting

Edited June 30, 2007 by stagefumer11

[Factory 5]

I can get brand new control arms for around $50 each. You should be able to get them over there, Dont trust pressing these ball joints out. I had one done and it fell out doing 80k around a corner. That was intresting

Thanks for the fuel pump info....

what i dont understand is if i upgrade to a bigger pump, and hook it up as you described without the modulator, wont it just be running on 12 volts constantly? is that going to put strain on everything when its idleing? or should i have a 2nd relay setup to reduce the voltage (and pressure) when my foot is off the pedal?

i thinking it might be easier to go to a specialist... unless you can privide a bit more info!

AND

where can you get new LCA's for $50 each! can you get an idea of how much postage will be to Melbourne?

(the rally shop seemed to think the pressed in ball joints will hold well, maybe they were after my ca$h!)

regards,

Andrew

[stagefumer11]

Thanks for the fuel pump info....

what i dont understand is if i upgrade to a bigger pump, and hook it up as you described without the modulator, wont it just be running on 12 volts constantly? is that going to put strain on everything when its idleing? or should i have a 2nd relay setup to reduce the voltage (and pressure) when my foot is off the pedal?

i thinking it might be easier to go to a specialist... unless you can privide a bit more info!

AND

where can you get new LCA's for $50 each! can you get an idea of how much postage will be to Melbourne?

(the rally shop seemed to think the pressed in ball joints will hold well, maybe they were after my ca$h!)

regards,

Andrew

Voltage drop can be a pain, you will find the FPR regulates the pressure anyway. You will fine, Well this is my theory, Mainly for volume level. (i dont think the common buy likes noisy fuel pumps)

thats the right hand side... part number bj515+arm Id look around alot of places here stock them, which is weird. not so common car : ./