Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

havin an arguement with my mate, im tellin him skyline diffs arent constant lsd, hes telling me they are!

who is right?

if someone can tell me all the info on sky diffs this would be great. coz i know for a fact my std diff on my skyline isnt a fultime lsd, coz after comparing it to my 9" in my old commonwhore its would get both wheels spinning almost instantly when you give it the smallest amount of shit!

but the sky you really have to give it a lot of shit before both wheels are smoking hard! and this isnt only in my sky, same as a few that ive driven!

iight set me straight ppl

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/143613-skyline-diffs/
Share on other sites

What car?

I mean, there are many different diffs across the range from HR31's to R34GTR's.

Your really not asking anything than a question which is about as long as a piece of string to be honest :)

Sounds like you have a tired diff to me anyhow.

They are not "constant" as such, depends what you might classify that as

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/143613-skyline-diffs/#findComment-2679668
Share on other sites

constant? do you mean locked or a mechanical LSD? And what sort of commodore has a ford diff in it?

Anyway.

r33 gtst has a viscous LSD that won't do much after 130000klm.

r33 gtr has a mechanical diff that may be OK and can be shimmed up very tight.

r33 gtr vspec has an active diff controlled by g sensors, wheel speed and hydraulics

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/143613-skyline-diffs/#findComment-2692036
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • But it's much better to use a freedom unit that has four different possible meanings...
    • I would try messing with friction modifier to see if it smooths it out.  Just keep adding more until it stops chattering or grabbing quite so much. If you haven't changed the gear oil in a long time you may as well start there too in case that has anything to do with it. You might want to also verify the initial torque is set to the lowest setting too. Requires popping out one of the CV axles first but that's not too bad. Once you're sure the preload is set to the lowest you can try adding an ounce at a time of friction modifier until it feels right to you.
    • It is possibly 55 degrees for the Nismo version. I had a look through the manual and the stocker has a breakaway torque of 2.5 to 3.5kgm. Supposedly the Nismo LSD goes down to 5kgm when worn in but it is pretty grabby even with very little throttle. Worse when cold. So I guess you have three things. 1. Shims. 2 Friction plates 3. Cams Would think shims would be the easiest but Ive no clue how many tenths of a mm shim thickness change equals how many kgm torque. Also not sure if the Nismo friction plates are similar/different to stock or if they are the most of the source of the diff being angry. Think I can write off the Nismo rebuild kit for the standard diff as not being what I want.  
    • Yeah, it was a bit of confusion with me, I rang and asked if they had a boot for a soft top, and then the paint shop when they rang and were asked if it had a hard top on it, which it does, just not a PRHT....LOL Meh, whilst frustrating for all concerned it isn't a war stopper and should be a thing of the past in a week or two In other N/A related news, car is booked in at the end of the month for the cams, springs, retainers, harmonic balancer and retune  I might even pull the lazy arse card and get them to do a full service on it whilst it is there
×
×
  • Create New...