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Here's the scoop.

We're about to make proper intakes (NOT GREDDY KNOCKOFFS with super ass castings).

The bottom of the intakes flange has a lot of channels running through it and a sensors/valves/hosesetc attaching to it. Do we need these? Do you all run these, or is there a way to bypass them?

These intakes will feature sheet aluminum plenums, bell mouths and tapered runners. They will also come with the provisions for some VERY large throttle bodies (IE, Q45, mustang etc).

help me help all of us.

Thanks

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As far as i know, by talking to some guys mounting a veilside replica, according to them, altough it probably was a greddy replica, they used all the channels/connections, and also needed to use some t-connections to get all the factory hoses/lines in place, along with hoses/lines for aftermarket boostgauge and boostcontroller.

Some channels can probably skipped but not that many, otherwise it wouldnt make sense why theres that certain amount on the factory intake manifold. Other then that i can only guess that if some where skipped then it would lead to people needing to use alot of t-connections, and through that itll probably be a bit slower when for example the blow-off valve goes off.

But these are only my immediate thoughts, not saying any of them are hard facts, but logically it feels like it makes sense.

Hope that helps in some way!

Cheers!

-David

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Heres my idea, make an exact replica or if possible improve on the factory rb26 manifold with mutliple throttle bodies and make that for rb20 and 25's. Better yet, make a kit so you can use the std rb26 manifold but retain 25 sensors and injectors and its all bolt up with some adapter plate and the rest of it.....ill buy one if you do.

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Hey if you want my thoughts.....

Greddy replica cast jobbies, bring them in, put the kit together with all the gaskets and nuts and bolts and instructions, and get each and every casting extrude honed....

Then there is 0% chance of crappy internal flow.....

Just my $0.02

that's what I'd do.

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Here's the scoop.

We're about to make proper intakes (NOT GREDDY KNOCKOFFS with super ass castings).

The bottom of the intakes flange has a lot of channels running through it and a sensors/valves/hosesetc attaching to it. Do we need these? Do you all run these, or is there a way to bypass them?

These intakes will feature sheet aluminum plenums, bell mouths and tapered runners. They will also come with the provisions for some VERY large throttle bodies (IE, Q45, mustang etc).

help me help all of us.

Thanks

If you are not sure why all those channels need to be there, are you sure you want to expose yourself to the risk of making a crap product that makes the car idle like a chaff cutter and run well only on WOT?

Sure there might be a market for that, but the largest market is general street. There are very few actual race only skylines out there. As r33_racer said, there would be a market for an affordable adaptor for 26 plenums, but I'm working on that.........

Then again if it came on the market at the 350-400 price range there would be plenty of suckers buying for bling.

ROFL at Bass and the answer to all things aerodynamic. From experience it tends to be a little more complex than that.

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Thanks for the feedback fellas.

I hadn't really looked closely at the piece. We will be doing a fully compatible piece with all the cooling channels etc. The manufacture of the intake is not a worry as far as airflow ( we have experience with this), just the casting of the flange.

to get a superior piece (the Greddy is not very impressive imho) seems to be a costly enterprise and we aim to change that.

I'll keep you all posted on any progress (or lack thereof).

Thank You.

Rob

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casting is not a cheap excercise, i have asked and am currently in talks with a factory to do exactly this....especially as they ask for a minimum order of 50

We cast all kinds of things...I know the price. The order quantity is likely to be in the 100 range right off the bat.

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Here's the scoop.

We're about to make proper intakes (NOT GREDDY KNOCKOFFS with super ass castings).

The bottom of the intakes flange has a lot of channels running through it and a sensors/valves/hosesetc attaching to it. Do we need these? Do you all run these, or is there a way to bypass them?

These intakes will feature sheet aluminum plenums, bell mouths and tapered runners. They will also come with the provisions for some VERY large throttle bodies (IE, Q45, mustang etc).

help me help all of us.

Thanks

OMG!...yeah your making proper intakes and yet u dont know wether u need all those sensors or valves or hoses ...seriously if u know what your getting yourself into you would have some idea of what your doing...

and then u want cater for this market and your asking us is there a way to bypass them ...geez here's a name u should use " SAU FORUM INTAKES". made by you .

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OMG!...yeah your making proper intakes and yet u dont know wether u need all those sensors or valves or hoses ...seriously if u know what your getting yourself into you would have some idea of what your doing...

and then u want cater for this market and your asking us is there a way to bypass them ...geez here's a name u should use " SAU FORUM INTAKES". made by you .

LOL... You crack me up. We aren't bypassing them...I hadn't looked closely at all at the unit till a 2 days ago. The casting will be the same at the base. Wow...for a bunch of guys who have an engine that forces them to route pipe all over their engine bay in an unattractive manner you sure are skeptical. Or you can keep on cutting up manifolds and welding them together...till you run out of manifolds.

Thanks for your help anyway.

R

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Wow...for a bunch of guys who have an engine that forces them to route pipe all over their engine bay in an unattractive manner you sure are skeptical.

I think we are entitled to be sceptical, all sorts of people for the last 10 years or so have been trying to flog off inlet manifolds/plenums for RB20/25’s. The vast majority of them perform much worse than the standard inlet manifold/plenum. We have seen respected guys adapt an RB26 inlet manifold/plenum to an RB20 and actually suffer a noticeable power loss. So even Nissan parts don’t transfer between n models.

You ain’t seen sceptical yet, wait until you try and sell the first one.

:D cheers :D

PS; if you want some tips try these;

• The standard throttle body must bolt up, no mods required

• Supply a replacement throttle cable, it’s a pain searching for one that reaches

• The standard sensors also must bolt straight up

• Don’t reduce the number of vacuum fittings, increase them. We could do with 3 more please, for aftermarket boost gauge, MAP sensor and EBC connections. T pieces are simply another potential leak.

• The idle control bypass is essential, there are 2 connections, one before and one after the throttle body. Both are required.

• Include a high mounted cooling system bleed, trapped air is a bitch.

• Supply it complete with all gaskets and seals.

• Have a top feed AND a side feed injector option. Supply the top feed rail with that option.

• If the standard radiator hose doesn’t fit straight on, then supply a replacement

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• The standard throttle body must bolt up, no mods required

Check.

• Supply a replacement throttle cable, it’s a pain searching for one that reaches

Will try to.

• The standard sensors also must bolt straight up

Check.

• Don’t reduce the number of vacuum fittings, increase them. We could do with 3 more please, for aftermarket boost gauge, MAP sensor and EBC connections. T pieces are simply another potential leak.

Will have a huge block for all taps.

• The idle control bypass is essential, there are 2 connections, one before and one after the throttle body. Both are required.

Check.

• Include a high mounted cooling system bleed, trapped air is a bitch.

Check.

• Supply it complete with all gaskets and seals.

Bit of a pain..but will try

• Have a top feed AND a side feed injector option. Supply the top feed rail with that option.

Sorry...why would we need side feed?

• If the standard radiator hose doesn’t fit straight on, then supply a replacement

Should fit right on...should clear slightly underneath the throttlebody.

Thanks for the input.

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