Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i'm looking at putting an electrical water temp gauge in and i'm wondering where to put the sender.

do i remove the stock sender and put it in there?

or do i have to make something up to mount it in and put that in the hose?

if i disconnect the stock one does that stuff up the ecu (make it lose cold start or not control the fan properly)?

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/143692-water-temp-gauge/
Share on other sites

i just had the same problem with mine, bought a new one tryed the std sender but gives faulse readings, the sender that u get with it most likely doesnt fit in the std position(Right?), so im either gona tap in a new thread some where or go down to the exhaust shop an get then to make up a bit of pipe to go in between my radiater hose. either way

doesnt cost much.

i suppose i will have to make something up. getting my hands on stainless piping is no worries. i'll try putting it in the stock location (haven't bought the gauge yet) but if it doesn't fit then i'll make something up.

should i just cut toe standard top hose to fit the adapter in, or buy 2 new bits of hose. i want to try to get out of this as cheaply as possible since its going to be an expensive week for me as it is.

Cut the top hose in two, 12 months ago you could have brought mine!!

I sold it, already had ex temp, oil temp, oil press, boost, reckoned that was enough to distract me lol so sold the water temp and sender.

the main water connector hose has two sensors

one is for the guage in analog style

the other is for the ecu

if you disconnect the ecu one the car may not start and water temp corrections will not be applied correctly, ie: this is a bad idea

when i fried my water temp sensor the car wouldnt start

but when i unplugged the sensor is started fine so who knows.

i was told by a few people there is no chance an rb will start with it disconnected, but it did, so not sure what is right or wrong. but i know the corrections wont apply if its disconnected

If you disconnect the the sensor for the ECU (that's the 2-pin sensor, BTW), the ECU will either regard it as an error and run in safe mode, or it will always think the engine is cold and run with LOTS of fuel.

The sensor you can afford to replace is the single-pin sensor adjacent to the ECU sensor - it is the one that works the temp gauge in the instrument cluster. If you are fitting a new gauge, you obviously don't need that one to work.

The sensor you can afford to replace is the single-pin sensor adjacent to the ECU sensor - it is the one that works the temp gauge in the instrument cluster. If you are fitting a new gauge, you obviously don't need that one to work.

the problem is trying to get a sender that fits that hole.

Most temp. sensors are either 1/8"BSPT or NPT.

The Nissan's sensor hole is NOT tapered but is parallel thread with the sensor sealing against a seat cut in the aluminium housing.

There is ample space to drill and tap another thread beside the existing sensors, just take care that no drillings enter the cooling system.

If you decide on that cut top hose system, you must also run a grounding wire to the sensor.

post-13483-1164053989.jpg

hmmmm, interesting???

jus read that the sonsor shud be on the top hose, mine came with the car wen i got it but its on the bottom hose, is there any logical reason why its there, wat difference wud the top and bottom make??

is it hot engine coolant coming out the bottom hose through the radiator and out the top cooler or the other way???

i tapped my intake manifold right off the head near the coolant outlet, so its the most accurate reading i can get.

alternatively you could weld a bung into the motor outlet/rad inlet for the sensor and that would also provide an accurate reading.

putting the sensor in the hose will make your readings about 4* off of actual...well so ive found on various cars ive fitted them to.

i tapped my intake manifold right off the head near the coolant outlet, so its the most accurate reading i can get.

alternatively you could weld a bung into the motor outlet/rad inlet for the sensor and that would also provide an accurate reading.

putting the sensor in the hose will make your readings about 4* off of actual...well so ive found on various cars ive fitted them to.

shouldnt make a difference, so long as the sensor, NOT SENDER, is located between the engine and radiator inlet.

The main thing is to know what you're reading. Engine designers usually place the temp sender in a known hot spot, so the reading will be the max.

Big radial aero engines even shield number 1 cylinder from some air flow so that particular cylinder reading will read the worst case.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can we see a scan of the original quote? The problem with engineers (and by this, I mean, all engineers across all engineering industries) is that there are "engineers" and there are "engineers" (you'll have to imagine the two different vocal emphases on those two versions of the same word. Engineering is a mindset - your farm kid who spent his life rebuilding the tractor will likely make a good engineer. The farm kid who spent his life taking photos of butterflies.. perhaps not. But on top of that mindset, the modern engineer has to learn how to write so that there is absolutely no way of being misunderstood. Proposals/budget estimates/quotations are one place where this is absolutely vital. You have to delineate your scope of supply with extremely hard boundaries, and anywhere where there is any possibility of not being able to have such a hard boundary, you need to write language that will cover you from scope creep, cost overruns, the inevitable interference of the client or their "engineer", etc etc. Now, if your clients are the BHPs and the Rio Tintos of the world, and similar, then you get good at this. If you are an automotive engineer, pitching work to the great unwashed masses, your skills in this area might not be well developed, because you're only dealing with knuckle draggers trying to get a big block legal in a Torana. And when I say "might not"....I'd suggest there's a better than even chance that any such skills might be completely absent. So, we might be able to look at your quote and see what the opportunities are for rebuttal.
    • It’s an rb25 so a gtst and I’ll get that valve
    • Thank you for this my turbo doesn’t have the nipple so I’ll get one installed in the turbo to Intercooler piping. I’ll get everything I need and locate it all using the information you both gave and get back with an update. 
    • Please do not connect it to your manifold. If you do, as GTS suggested please record the lot in 4K with good mics attached.   On the factory Skyline, there's a upside down pipe that allows it to breathe, looks like this   
    • For me I'd need some serious justification for why it has blown out.  Have you questioned him on it?  To be honest if you didn't question him right from the get-go on the first invoice that was already way over the initial quote and then you've (presumably) then paid another $1375 on top of the first invoice, then you're pushing shit uphill to get a favourable result now... It was years ago I last got an engineer out but it was around $450-$550 per visit.  That was just to inspect each progress point he gave me for the project.  Is he just doing progress inspections or is he providing engineering diagrams, technical assistance, etc??  If he's not, he's a filthy rip off merchant.  If the $3100 is the final sign off then you need to cop it on the chin, pay it and move on.  If it's not, piss him off and get a new one.  Not many Jeeps I'd value at $10K full stop let alone just engineering fees on a written off, half actual value WOVR Jeep....
×
×
  • Create New...