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tyres 1x must have legal tread urgent

pm please

17"

Hey mate, i have pretty much a Brand new 17" still has green and red stripe on it, 235/45/17

Where bouts you located?

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looking for a s13 roof and or bootlip spoiler (r32 bootlip spoiler will be fine too)

not intirested in paying hundreds of dollars for new items cos its a track car and it dosent need to look super pretty

let me know if you have anything sitting around cheers

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WTB- R32 turbo actuator pm or txt me on 0420986545

hey mate, i have a r32 gtr actuator.. if your interested

txt sent

Cheers.

Edited by R32.GTR
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hey mate, i have a r32 gtr actuator.. if your interested

txt sent

Cheers.

i dont believe they are the same as what the dude's after

Anyone got an R33 bootlid? Preferably in white but I'll take what I can get. I have a plan in the works

ive got a white one =D

Edited by DamageInc
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Items:

Nismo Low Temp Thermostat

Extra Info:

suit M35/G35/V35/350z (VQ engine) 62-68 degree open

Contact Details:

PM preffered.

Price and price conditions:

anything used $100

new:$180 max

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RB25 neo flywheel as i am pulling out the twin plate and going back to a single.

going by what ive heard shaun (someone correct me if im wrong) you should be able to use any RB flywheel for the job ;)

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    • So, COM doesn't mean comms. It means common. What common itself means will depend on the type of device. For a two directional actuator (ie, one that can push and pull on the same output rod) then the common will typically just be the earth connection. There will be at least 2 other wires. If you put 12V on one of the other wires, then the actuator will push. On the other 12V wire, it will pull. Can't quite make out what is going on with the wiring of your actuator. It appears to have several wires at the actuator plug, but there only appears to be 2 wires where its loom approaches the door control module, with at least one of the others cut off. I don't know these actuators off by heart. I'd have to look at a wiring diagram for one before knowing what the wires were about, and that's despite me having to replace one in my car not all that long ago. Just not interesting enough to have dedicated memory set aside for trivia like that any more. That actuator is an aftermarket one, not the original one, which probably died and was replaced. That might require some sort of bodge job on wiring to make it work. Although nothing should justify the bodginess of the bodge job done. As to the soldering job on the door module's loom plug. Ahhahhahaha. Yes, very nasty. Again, I cant tell you what any of those wires do. You'd need to study the R34 wiring diagram (if you can find one that shows the door module). I don't think I have any. I'd have to study the R32 diagram to start to understand what mine is doing, and again, even though I've had a problem with mine for the last 25 years (where it locks the passenger door when the driver's window reaches top or bottom of travel) I'm just not interested enough to try to to work it out. So long as it's not burning down, it's fine with me. Here's the R32 GTR diagram, which, confusingly, has rear door lock actuators and window motors on it!! As you can see, unless you understand the functions of the door lock timer and the power window amplifier, you'll never be able to work out how it works just from the diagram. I don't imagine that the R34 one is any better. Hopefully an R34 aware bod can help. FWIW, the two wires that are cut and joined look like they are both power supply - so hopefully it is not fatal to join them. The 10V you measured on the cut off free end of one of them is concerning. You'd expect 12V, and it might be the reason for the bodge job joining them together.
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