Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys got a bit of an emergency here, i have a r32 gts-t/rb20det and i have just blown out one of my rear heater hoses, I managed to get the car home and have had a look but i have no tools or a replacement hose, i was wondering if anyone on the northside(I'm in daveron park) is able to come around with a replacement hose and some tools to help me get this sorted as i have to use the car to pick our 2 kids up from school at 3pm. I can be pm'ed on the forum or text messaged on 0403606243(phone only texts no calls recieving on phone) anyone able to help would be much appreciated can throw you $20 and 6pack for the trouble if able to help.

Cheers Steve.

Hi guys got a bit of an emergency here, i have a r32 gts-t/rb20det and i have just blown out one of my rear heater hoses, I managed to get the car home and have had a look but i have no tools or a replacement hose, i was wondering if anyone on the northside(I'm in daveron park) is able to come around with a replacement hose and some tools to help me get this sorted as i have to use the car to pick our 2 kids up from school at 3pm. I can be pm'ed on the forum or text messaged on 0403606243(phone only texts no calls recieving on phone) anyone able to help would be much appreciated can throw you $20 and 6pack for the trouble if able to help.

Cheers Steve.

Steve, I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but the odds of someone right now sitting at home with nothing better to do, and has an RB20 rear heater hose, and can get to you and fix it for $20 plus a six pack (which I am sure wouldn't even buy you the hose itself), all within the next 2 hours is worse than one in a billion. If I were you, I would be making other plans.

The good news is, that if you can find some copper pipe about the same diameter as the inside of your heater hose, pull the other one off the heater hose off the heater core at the firewall, and join them together with the copper pipe and some clamps. I ran around 'fixed' like that in my R34 for months a few years back. You lose your car heater, but at least the car will be usable.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes, but it's not as easy as pulling a fuse on anything other than an R32. There's a routine you have to do, involving disconnecting a loom plug and bleeding down the preload.
    • A question for tuning awd, is it possible to disable the AWD? The stagea is an EA/T AWD, Toshi had said on a GTR, he was able to disable it and make it 2wd. Just wanted to double check if this was possible
    • Whoa, that's a name I've not see for a long time! Sorry to hear about the engine / turbo damage.  Fwiw with any engine problems it often really a case of just seeing what happens when it's apart, ymmv - I wouldn't rule out the possibility that the damage isn't even from the turbo failure, or possibly from a combination.  The airflow between cylinders isn't dead even, injectors can go off over time as well, with the turbos overboosting if you didn't have upgraded fuel system there could have possibly been a bit of leaning out - stock triggering is often a bit unreliable by this age too.  Basically its an old engine and a few things could have been going on, and you won't know how much work is needed until the engine is apart.  
    • I'm just shocked there's a euro driver on our roads who is thinking of other road users and not attempting to blind everyone. I wonder if Prank uses his indicator too...
    • Its hard to tell really. The Q50 owner's forum talks about it a lot and has quite a few people directly affected, but no idea what % of cars sold actually had the block replaced. Also, there seem to be 2 distinct issues which both get diagnosed by Infiniti as requiring a block replacement (no wonder they are going broke) 1. "Porous block" where coolant mixes with oil through thin or poorly cast parts of the block 2. Head coolant gallery plugs not sealing. If I was noticing engine coolant loss I'd start with cooling system pressure test (as always) and then I'd pull the cam covers and reseal the coolant gallery plugs on both side before worrying about a potentially porous block.  If neither of those did the trick it would be put in a second hand engine out of japan; I haven't checked pricing but I'm sure there are plenty around by now as they've been in production 10+ years
×
×
  • Create New...