Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey, I also have this noise...Only just figured out it was the clutch last night, also an exedy heavy duty that was installed by the previous owner...For me it happens between 1000-2000rpm in 2nd-above when applying throttle...Can anyone shed any light on how to get rid of this extremely annoying noise?

Edited by RaseR

Its not the tail shaft?

Sometimes if you don't index the shaft in relation to the diff, it can upset it. It would have been off the same time the box and clutch was out.

Maybe try rotating it 180deg, if you still have the problem, its more then likely a clutch issue.

Hi All,

I also have an Exedy clutch and i'm experiencing the same problem!! Such a pain...

I think i will try taking the tail shaft out and rotating it 180 degrees and see what happens...

Has anybody else tried this?

come on guys, let put our heads together and try different things and see if we can get rid of this vibration....

If anybody happens to have any success, please let us know....

Its not the tail shaft?

Sometimes if you don't index the shaft in relation to the diff, it can upset it. It would have been off the same time the box and clutch was out.

Maybe try rotating it 180deg, if you still have the problem, its more then likely a clutch issue.

Actually, I just had a thought,

you mentioned the tail shaft IN RELATION to the diff??

I didn't actually take the tail shaft out at all.. I just slid it out when I took the tranny out...

does it matter how the tail shaft goes into the tranny??

Its not the tail shaft?

Sometimes if you don't index the shaft in relation to the diff, it can upset it. It would have been off the same time the box and clutch was out.

Maybe try rotating it 180deg, if you still have the problem, its more then likely a clutch issue.

Pretty sure mine is an exedy heavy duty organic clutch, not button style but it still has the shuddering noise...unless of course I'm wrong about what type of clutch I have (previous owner installed)..

How would I tell if mine's a button clutch? It drives just like a normal clutch, just a bit heavier, really easy in traffic...unlike many button clutches...

I have an organic excedy clutch bought from C & B from these forums in the group buy..

I havnt heard the noise before in my car.

However with those 3-5 puk clutches and those super super dooper heavy duty clutches you will experience those noises at lower rpms.. Its prefectly normal..

But for a simple clutch you shouldnt be hearin it..

Edited by siddr20

when i used to have a standard clutch, it was fine with no shudder, but when it was almost worn out and dying, it did start to shudder when sliped. the longer the slip, the worse the shudder got.

shudder went away when i replaced the clutch

yeah. if its organic. it shouldnt' shudder. but the exedy ones a pretty renound for it.

dave you might remember my clutch had that shudder/chatter noise when i was sliping it at the workshop where you used to work

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi Rob It's a nistune ecu. Yes same shop, good reputation. Apparently the computer on the dyno is compensated for temperature.    Chris was saying that the lean or richness of the mixture would be covered in the actual tune, but he's already picking up in advance that it's under what it should be. Regards the dyno, it's also noticeable on the road. But I just want to add something that has just come in, it appears there might be something in the setup of the external wastegate. In the exhaust manifold there is a centre divider between the front three and rear three cylinders. The external wastegate has a pipe from each side that join at the wastegate. Theory is those two pipes just might be pypassing that divider and introducing a problem somehow. Is anyone familiar with the divider in the exhaust manifold and the effects if the two wastegate pipes were to create a bypass path? Thanks for your questions Rob, interested in your thoughts on this external wastegate bypass theory. Regards Rob
    • Meh, At 60 years old, I have been doing dumb stuff for much longer than you mate, I am the true King And unfortunately I cannot be a maroon, as I am not brownish red As for not getting ITB's, the plenum intake will apparently show typical gains across the board and increase induction noise a bit, but, have all over less dort than ITB's Cost difference for the extra ITB dorts was significant though, the total parts for the plenum set up is "around" $2kAUD plus shipping, the ITB's were $4kAUD plus shipping, I was contemplating really hard about paying the extra $2k for all of the dorts, but weirdly, some form of common sense, from listening to the platform experts prevailed  As for the NA mod hate by some, I've had a few boosted cars, with all their inherent issues, I'm now looking at simplicity and legalities for a street car, maybe I'm just getting old, and I'm quite happy to spend some of the kids inheritance, 5kw at a time 🤣 And think of all the money I'll be saving on consumables that something with boost needs, like engines, gearboxes, diffs, clutches,  tilt trays... etc. etc. etc. 🤪
    • Haha.  I wouldn't say I am either but I've definitely been around it plenty.  I'm guessing you know the dial in is basically to make a handicap to level the playing field between racers.  The car with the slower dial in goes first and in theory if they run their dial in time and the faster car also does then they cross the finish time if they also have exactly the same reaction time - if you go faster than the dial in them you lose, but if you are too slow there's a good chance the other person will get to the finish line first. I'm normally supporting other cars but they were all pretty dialled and were egging me on to race as well, here's one of the cars I tune (Starlet) which ran within like 1 hundredth of its dial in through the competition: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=inEBu-d9Gn4&t=69s
    • Where ever the fuel reg gets it reference is what I use to T into for map reference been a very long time so where it goes to plenum/runners I have no idea but never had issues. 
    • What ecu? Same shop every time? Same ambient temperature? If timing is correct then pull plugs and see if lean or rich. Dyno can also read different if they have changed ramp rate or not set tacho/speed properly  
×
×
  • Create New...