Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Quick run down.....7 runs at WSID last night - 14.7 @ 95.

this was 5 of my 7 runs. (other 2 I totally screwd up - missed 3rd!)

Ok - car is 33GTST series 1.

usual mods...

unifilter pod, fmic, turbosmart boost controller (sinle stage - 7 - 12psi) and 3 inch dump pipe, standard cat and 3 inch cat back. (exedy heavy duty cutch)

and HKS fuel cut defender - these mods made 195rwkw tuned at UAS. (air / fuels all good)

Now, last night - the car was beaten by skyrines with much less power and mods.

My 60 footers were 2.1 and 2.2 (best was 1.9 standard)

On standard 7psi I was doing 14.7 @ 95 and on 12psi - 14.7@95 - no difference at all.

I noticed on the higher boost setting, the car was surging/bogging down on gear changes - not wheel spin

On lower boost, wasnt bigging down but you could hear/feel it "chirp"

my gear changes werent that slow nor that harsh (treat it with some respect! haha)

(last month only got 2 runs in and did a wheel spining 14.6 at 99.7 - 2nd run blew a cooler hose)

Just need to know, wtf is going on with my car? a standard series 2 with just a turbo back (nismo god from here) did a 13.7 and mr moo also did a 14.1

Has this ever happened to anyone here?

What should I do or what should I change?

My tyres werent the best but held up ok.

Im thinking new plugs, get the injectors looked at, and the fuel filter - anything else?

Thanks guys,appreciate your help and comments and sorry for the long post

Cheers,

Chris

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/143744-what-is-with-my-car/
Share on other sites

you could've just been having a bad night.

i'd get rid of the stock cat though. that will help a bit.

the bogging sounds like it may have been your plugs, or it may have been pinging and the ecu was backing the timing of a bit.

turbo back he had sorry.

nismo god from nsw section.

he then had slicks from benm (also from nsw section) and did a 13.4

yeah plugs are getting done now!

mad - Im always have a bad night at the drags haha

your max speed looks a bit down bud. i thought it wud be above 100mph with 195 kws. your 60 footer looks good. is your car pinging up top? i think that mite be the problem, cos youd be losing power. with 2.0 sec 60 footers it dusnt look like ur launch or tyres are the problem

Sound to me like you might have come to the point where you are battling R&R! Try some sort of engine managment I reckon! Oh and a decent cat for sure! The complicance one is nasty and by far the biggest restriction in the exhaust

Hey bud, somethings definately wrong with you setup. . .

I have: Full exhaust, china FMIC, HKS pod and Bosch 044 ~ 180 rwkw

my 60' times suck and i'm able to do flat 14's

If you are surging/bogging down I'd say R&R, you are missing ~ 5 mph at least, 60' foot times are good. . .

check your AFM sensor isn't oily/dirty, recently had that problem with the HKS filter, have a new filter going in asap. . .

good luck

Jays

possibly just practice (no offence) - but with 205rwkw in my s5 rx7 (i know may've been a little lighter) when i had it i did a 12.9 @ 108 with 1.8 60ft with chromies on and the doof doof install in the boot...

gear changes and getting that perfect start all helps.

those other guys with the quicker times, how many times have they been out?

good luck with it, hopefully you can get a flat 14, high 13?

If you think you have 195rwkw and are only running 95mph, then you are kidding youself.

Whoever dyno'd your car - made it look high.

I laugh at all of these people that say "my car has this rwkw" and then when I say thats not right, they get all smart assed about it and tell me I am jealous or something.

Then someone goes down the strip, and runs 95mph and shows their TRUE power.

Mate, you'll be lucky if you have more than 160rwkw.

Oh, and I don't see the mention of a aftermarket ECU \ management... If you don't have that then you certainly don't have anymore than 160rwkw.

When I had a Powerfc, Tune, FMIC, FULL exhaust, boost at 12psi, I was running 200rwkw, and 13's at 105mph...

240rwkw now - 12's at 112mph+........

the mafia,

was actually done by UAS - a well known and good workshop in NSW.

Any questions with your doubts -

Ill get that dyno sheet up and you can speak with the guys at UAS to question their work :)

I also ran just under 100mph last month.

Are you sure he did a 13.7 with just a cat-back exhaust....that sounds a bit surprising to me. But anyway yeah did the car feel like it was pulling any harder at any stage with the boost turned up?

i was there and he did do a 13.7 and he was in the 13's all night

and chubb if i can get a 13.9 at 98mph with 165rwkw im sure ur car juz has a problem. and i know its ur not driving mate u taught me

Edited by burnsie

im suffering a slow launch as to my big fat heavy wheels and not enough torque,arent you running stock 32gtst rims evil weevil?

im not expert but maybe your loosing terminal velocity as you have alot of power but small light wheels,it all depends on your overall wheel diametre,but maybe just the rim itself does come into play,because your

getting great launches,but just not carrying the pulling power the rest of the track.

its just a thought,maybe it could help

Does the car feel slower than it did when it was dyno'd, maybe th efuel pump has died, however the mafia has a good point, 205rwkw with a stock computer?The whole programming of the standard computer is set around making sure the car cant make more power, however i think there is something else wrong.

195rwkw from UAS Adriano - car felt much quicker after the fuel cut defender - was really surprised - felt much quicker than my old Gen3 with more power.

RSTME - yep - stock 32 rims - I know my tyres are almost shot, and wouldnt help me too well!

You might have the curse, check out benm's posts from his GTST days. He has the curse. I think I have it too but a slightly milder dose.

Try 10psi next time because 12 might just be a bit too much for that turbo with your setup. 10psi might get rid of the surge which is definitely slowing you down and showing as low mph.

I had surge on my stock turbo but blew it before I could figure out how to fix it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok glad you clarified on the frenchy’s options , I was worried about if my oem hoses would fit the new compressor or not if I just bought the bracket/compressor kit ,  didn’t realize they also sold a larger full conversion kit. Hmm may just go oem in that case then to make it easy only because I plan to sell this car to upgrade to a 32 GTR or 34 GTT.
    • Right, here's a video of the basic operation at least.  This is what you can expect day to day when you turn the car on and it boots from standby.  The only thing from a media point of view I haven't gotten working is for it to autoplay plexamp when it turns on from standby (it works from cold boot) but that's more of a plexamp problem as it will autoplay other music players.  Also attached is my one stray cable.  It's part of the screen's wiring adapters but there's just nowhere for it to go in my car.  I've just now done a bit of research and found a matching port on a 2010-2014 head unit with BOSE.  Mine has no BOSE so that's that case pretty much closed I think.  Plugging in the Infiniti AC panel basically did nothing for me, so that's a dead end as well.  Next port of call is to mess with this CANBUS module and see what I can find from it.  I found this resource containing the DBC files for a 2010+ G37 : https://github.com/icecube45/Dash_InfinitiG37/blob/master/InfinitiG37.dbc I'll now have something to go from when I try to extract my CANBUS data so I can see if the HVAC Mode, Fan Speed, Temperature, etc. match and also the gear shifter position.  It's a pretty big assumption that it's just mismatched CAN signals but considering all the devices in the CAN network are talking to each other (AC can be fully adjusted just with no info on screen) it might be a safe one.  I will report back WhatsApp Video 2025-02-26 at 12.49.10.mp4
    • Thanks for that Paul.  Do you think if I posted a picture you'd be able to remember where it went? 
    • Sorry Duncan, I didn't get a notification for the replies.  Thanks for responding!  It's a full Android device, but does allow you to use CarPlay/AA as well.  This is the one I bought from NaviRS on AliExpress: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006368602668.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.111.59aa1802JDzQ0E - the 2K 8G-256G CAM variant but it seems to have gone up by £170 since I bought it!  My purchase was £307.14.   It's not the fastest thing in the world but performs perfectly adequately.  It stays on standby unless I disconnect the battery and let it power down, then it's just a fairly standard Android bootup time from cold.  The DSP Equaliser is very nice and made the standard stereo system sound pretty decent compared to the stock screen.  Perhaps I can take a video of it when I get a sec. It *allegedly* supports the reverse camera, but I'm yet to get that working.  It has options for reverse cam (a camera unit can be bought separately) or 360 cameras (also bought separately).  To be fair it doesn't seem to detect that the shifter was put into reverse but I'm working on a theory about this as well.  At the moment I'm going without which is a bit annoying considering the car is an absolute canal barge but so far I haven't caused any damage I'll grab a picture of the wire I'm missing later today when I can get outside.  My theory, by the by, is that not only is the head unit different, but the CANBUS network has different signals for the different years.  I think this because I have a spare AC panel from a newer Infiniti G37 (as opposed to my Nissan panel) which wouldn't control anything except the volume when I had it wired up with the stock system.  I'm going to throw it back in and see if the screen will respond to it.  I've just ordered an arduino CANBUS module so I can have a look at the signals going around the car and see if I can spot anything.  I'm thinking if I can work out what it's expecting vs what it's getting I might be able to translate and relay the signal back but so far just a theory anyway. I also found this on my travels, so far the only one that specifically matches my car: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002822934280.html?spm=a2g0s.imconversation.0.0.33433e5fgttovi If you look at the picture of the before, it has the card reader slot, and the picture of the head unit is exactly the same as the one pictured in my original post.  I asked if they sell the cables separately but sadly they won't.  I didn't want to just buy this one because it's a super old Android version and only dual core - likely slow as hell. 
    • As above, you did refill the coolant and burp the system before running it again didn't you?
×
×
  • Create New...