Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys i just orderded a gt30r internaly gated turbo i was wandering if there are many peaople out there with this turbo and could share there experiences, power wish, and if there responseive? laggy etc supporting mods to make there power. preferably on a rb25.

cheers sam

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/143748-garret-gt30r/
Share on other sites

damn really thats awesome ive been to one tuner here in perth and said nothing but negative comments about the turbo so i got a bit worried and made this post they said i will have endless problems with boost, do you have any problems with boost and can iask what other supporting mods u were running with this turbo

cheers sam

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/143748-garret-gt30r/#findComment-2683804
Share on other sites

The int gated housings are only new to the market... i'd sad hardly anyone would have one on there car

so there will be no results as such.

If it performs like the ext gate version (which it should) then there is a zillion threads about those :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/143748-garret-gt30r/#findComment-2685136
Share on other sites

you have to order a 1 bar canister for the gcg gt30 for the internal wastegate actuater or a hks one , otherwise she will struggle to hold much over 17psi of boost. that is why external wastegated gt30 are better than internal wastegates. i should know ive run both on my rb25.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/143748-garret-gt30r/#findComment-2685149
Share on other sites

Just like the XR6 turbo (as they are essentially the same turbine housing but running a smaller wheel).

Throw a decent actuator on it rated close to the boost you intend to run.

Its silly to use a 6-7psi actuator when you intend to run 12psi+.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/143748-garret-gt30r/#findComment-2685860
Share on other sites

haha yea id like to know , and i have bad news really wanted to get all my parts fitted including this turbo but due to the discontinued power fc's not sure what engine management im gona get, still trying to find a power fc i hav my car booked in, in 2 weeks but if no power fc i cant really get my car tuned :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/143748-garret-gt30r/#findComment-2688986
Share on other sites

supporting mods needed:

-aftermarket ecu

-aftermarket injectors (nismo 550 or 740cc direct bolton fit for r33 rb25)

-aftermarket fuelpump (i see ur looking at getting a 044 fuel pump, i would say go for something like nismo or tomie as they are direct bolton takes not more than 30mins to install one)

you should also consider buying some rims if you only have stock rims (reason why is with aftermarket rims you can run larger tyre size which can help with traction)

Aftermarket clutch

and if you have money left over, good shock and spring setup, camber kit for the rear (so u can get rid of that negative camber when u lower the car), good brake pad upgrade ....

good luck!

gt30 seems alittle big for me thou ..

ps check ur topic in wa about pfc, as i can help

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/143748-garret-gt30r/#findComment-2688995
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • I’d love to find some where that can recover the dashes to look brand new and original. Mine has a very slight bubble, nothing compared to some I’ve seen though 
    • $170K. I asked one of the guys there as a joke if that price was just for the passenger seat as it was where the price sheet was... he tried really hard to crack a smile 😄 He also mentioned that every single part of the car was inspected and either restored or replaced with a new or as new part, or made from scratch. The interior was incredible, every inch like a new car.
    • Time for a modernisation, throw out the AFM, stock O2s, ECU into the e-waste bin. Rip out the cable throttle, IACV, pedal, etc. into the scrap metal bin. DBW, e-throttle, modern ECU, CANbus wideband, and the thing will drive better than when it left the factory.
    • I agree, don't go trusting those trims. As I said, first step is to put the logger away, and do the basics in diagnosis.   I spend plenty of time with data loggers. I also spend plenty of time teaching "technicians" why they need to stop using their data loggers, and learn real diagnostics.   The amount of data logs I play with would probably blow most people away. I don't just use it to diagnose. I log raw CAN data too, as a nice chunk of my job is reverse engineering what automotive manufacturers are doing.
    • I'm aware, but unless you're actually seeing the voltage the ECU is seeing and you're able to verify the sensors are actually working I find it hard to just trust STFT/LTFT. I will say, logging the ECU comes naturally to me because it's one of the lowest effort methods of diagnosis and I do similar things in my day job all the time. Staring at 20+ charts looking for something that isn't quite right isn't for everyone. NDS1 allows you to log almost everything so that's normally what I do and then sort out the data later. 
×
×
  • Create New...