Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

 

from GCG:-

The factory turbocharger is a ball bearing T3 sized unit with a ceramic turbine wheel. In upgrading this unit we replace the ball bearing pack with a new one while replacing the turbine wheel and compressor wheel with hi-flowed models. The upgrade comes in two stages.  

XTRGTST-STG1 450hp rated          $2250.00  

XTRGTST-STG2 500hp rated          $2450.00  

what's the response time like on the turbo upgrade compare to the factory ceramic and the HKS 2530(seem to be popular)?

was telling me his brother has a GTST, they high flowed the turbo, match ported the standard manifold, fitted a 3 inch exhaust, FMIC, fuel pump and reg, kept the standard injectors, a wolf 3D and got 200RWKW and pulled a flat 13 at calder park with street tyres at 107MPH.  

The Wolf is alot cheaper, but l have heard it cannot support bigger injectors, is this true?

not going to hammer workshops, but for 200rwkw that hi-flow may aswell be a paper weight as thats a dead waste of $1500. Even 210-220rwkw i would question. Guys around here seem to bring home great results with the GCG turbos.

Personaly i'd get bigger injectors and not bump rail pressures with a reg.

If you want an ECU... get a PowerFC. Take the car to ICE Performance or Racepace Motorsport for the tune. By far the best in Vic for an RB tune/work

Who said the PFC was expensive? @ ~$1100 with Hand controller from nengun... i dont think you'll find better anywhere.

PFC's are cheap as dogsh*t these days. I purchased one the other day. Great prices.

EDIT: just noticed someone went thread digging :headspin:

I have just pursched myself a 95 R33 gtst with the following mods, FMIC, full 3 inch exhaust from the turbo, air filter, and a HKS boost controller. I have talked to alot of people about up grading the turbo, but they seem to tell me different things and now I do not know what to do. Do l highflow the existing turbo? or opt for something big such as a T04 with a custum manifold? and who in Melbourne is the best place to talk about turbo upgrades. My aim is to get the car to run in the 12 second bracket.

dude,

i'd recommend you speak to dennis at P.E.T Modifications (9464-4225 or 0425 799984) as he would be able to advise you which way to go for the power that you want.

also, if you were looking at hi-flowing your original turbo, he can get that done for you, so give him a call and have a chat with him. just tell him Goran (RS500) sent you and he'll help you out.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That's odd, it works fine here. Try loading it on a different device or browser? It's Jack Phillips JDM, a Skyline wrecker in Victoria. Not the cheapest, but I have found them helpful to find obscure parts in AU. https://jpjdm.com/shop/index.php
    • Yeah. I second all of the above. The only way to see that sort of voltage is if something is generating it as a side effect of being f**ked up. The other thing you could do would be to put a load onto that 30V terminal, something like a brakelamp globe. See if it pulls the voltage away comepletely or if some or all of it stays there while loaded. Will give you something of an idea about how much danger it could cause.
    • I would say, you've got one hell of an underlying issue there. You're saying, coils were fully unplugged, and the fuse to that circuit was unplugged, and you measured 30v? Either something is giving you some WILD EMI, and that's an induced voltage, OR something is managing to backfeed, AND that something has problems. It could be something like the ECU if it takes power from there, and also gets power from another source IF there's an internal issue in the ECU. The way to check would be pull that fuse, unplug the coils, and then probe the ECU pins. However it could be something else doing it. Additionally, if it is something wired in, and that something is pulsing, IE a PWM circuit and it's an inductive load and doesnt have proper flyback protection, that would also do it. A possibility would be if you have something like a PWM fuel pump, it might be giving flyback voltages (dangerous to stuff!). I'd put the circuit back into its "broken" state, confirm the weird voltage is back, and then one by one unplug devices until that voltage disappears. That's a quick way to find an associated device. Otherwise I'd need to look at the wiring diagrams, and then understand any electrical mods done.   But you really should not be seeing the above issue, and really, it's indicating something is failing, and possibly why the fuse blew to begin with.
    • A lot of what you said there are fair observations and part of why I made that list, to make some of these things (like no advantage between the GSeries and GSeries II at PR2.4 in a lot of cases) however I'm not fully convinced by other comments.  One thing to bare in mind is that compressor flow maps are talking about MASS flow, in terms of the compressor side you shouldn't end up running more or less airflow vs another compressor map for the same advertised flow if all external environmental conditions are equivalent if the compressor efficiency is lower as that advertised mass flow takes that into consideration.   Once the intercooler becomes involved the in-plenum air temperature shouldn't be that different, either... the main thing that is likely to affect the end power is the final exhaust manifold pressure - which *WILL* go up when you run out of compressor efficiency when you run off the map earlier on the original G-Series versus G-Series II as you need to keep the gate shut to achieve similar airflow.    Also, how do you figure response based off surge line?  I've seen people claim that as an absolute fact before but am pretty sure I've seen compressors with worse surge lines actually "stand up" faster (and ironically be more likely to surge), I'm not super convinced - it's really a thing we won't easily be able to determine until people start using them.     There are some things on the maps that actually make me wonder if there is a chance that they may respond no worse... if not BETTER?!  which brings me to your next point... Why G2 have lower max rpm?  Really good question and I've been wondering about this too.  The maximum speed *AND* the compressor maps both look like what I'd normally expect if Garrett had extended the exducers out, but they claim the same inducer and exducer size for the whole range.   If you compare the speed lines between any G and G2 version the G2 speed lines support higher flow for the same compressor speed, kinda giving a pretty clear "better at pumping more air for the same speed" impression. Presumably the exducer includes any extended tip design instead of just the backplate, but nonetheless I'd love to see good pics/measurements of the G2 compressors as everything kinda points to something different about the exducer - specifically that it must be further out from the centerline, which means a lower rpm for the same max tip speed and often also results in higher pressure ratio efficiency, narrower maps, and often actually can result in better spool vs a smaller exducer for the same inducer size... no doubt partly due to the above phenomenon of needing less turbine speed to achieve the same airflow when using a smaller trim. Not sure if this is just camera angle or what, but this kinda looks interesting on the G35 990 compressor tips: Very interested to see what happens when people start testing these, and if we start getting more details about what's different.
×
×
  • Create New...