Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Sorry if this is a really basic and newb question, but I'm gonna ask it anyway.

I'm possibly days away from buying an R33 GTS-T, just in the negotiating stage, anyway, the guy I'm buying it from doesn't want to include the price of the roadworthy in the sale.

I would rather that it was included, so that I don't get hit with an unknown/unforseen high cost after the purchase of the car.

If I end up having to pay for the roadworthy, I was just wondering what gets checked in a roadworthy?

So I can semi-calculate what could be invloved.

Thanks in advance,

Ollie

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/143875-roadworthy/
Share on other sites

if you do a search in general auto and the state you live in im sure you'll find some answers mate

For a quick answer... you can never tell how much it'll cost to clear a car for a roady. I had one that cost me $1000 once. If he doesnt want to include one, its because he knows it wont pass and he cant be arsed clearing himself. Its now up to you whether you want to take the risk or not.

best of luck

Edited by ctjet
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/143875-roadworthy/#findComment-2684415
Share on other sites

Thanks for the reply mate. I really want it to be included in the price, he's under a bit of pressure, so hopefully it can go my way. Then I might really feel like a part of this community.... as a full blooded Skyline owner!

Thanks again.

Ollie

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/143875-roadworthy/#findComment-2684423
Share on other sites

If he doest get one, just make the sale of the car conditional to a Roadworthy Inspection (make sure you write it all down in contract form)

And put a figure in, like if RW repairs cost more than $200, he gives you back the deposit or something like that.

If you both sign it, you wont have an issue

If he doesnt wanna get a RW, you'd be able to get a couple hundred off the price anyhow.

But definately make sure its part of the agreement as something major could be wrong.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/143875-roadworthy/#findComment-2684439
Share on other sites

DO NOT buy it without knowing whats wrong with it, from a trusted mechanic. get your own RWC done, if hes supplying it it could be dodgy, which is what it sounds like..

Places that give out R/W/C want to keep their license......none give out dodgy ones anymore.

As for the car you are thinking of buying....don,t let your heart get in the way of your pocket.

Get it checked out ...with a compression test aswell.

If it checks out....then negotiate.

Leave a deposit and write on a letter , stating purchased on subject to inspection.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/143875-roadworthy/#findComment-2698747
Share on other sites

I concur.

The last 2 "proper" roadworthies that I have been supplied with were totally dodgy.

One of them even wrote the wrong year on the rwc.

It certainly made things interesting when I took the paperwork in to get the vehicle registered.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/143875-roadworthy/#findComment-2701250
Share on other sites

Does anybody know a place to get an inspection in or around Campbellfield?

RACV will only inspect it at their inspection bay in North Melbourne because it's an import.

As the guy lives and works in Campbellfield, he is unable to get it there for a full day.

He is available all weekend, or today if possible.

Thanks in advance.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/143875-roadworthy/#findComment-2716258
Share on other sites

Sounds dodgey. Get the checks, get the RACV.

Make sure it goes up on a hoist and check over. You don't want a dodgey skyline. When test driving I tried some that seemed so nice... but were ridden with hidden issues and others were just crap haha.

Good luck!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/143875-roadworthy/#findComment-2716472
Share on other sites

Thanks for all the advice guys.

On advice from a member, I had the car checked by State Roads today, who did a very thorough job for $164.

They found the Engine, Gearbox and Diff were in great condition and very smooth.

But the car had been in 2 accidents in japan with dodgy repairs... so saved myself a lot of money!

Thanks again

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/143875-roadworthy/#findComment-2717025
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, that was one of the things we learned fast in the past with our MX5. When you drive with the top down, you are effectively standing out in the sun, 100% of the time, and not getting in any shade (because roads aren't shaded generally!). Just like standing out in the middle of a field on a sunny 27C day is a bit of a bad plan, so is sitting in a MX5 without sun protection.
    • I also just ordered some Frankenstein bolts and side mounts to fit a hard top Just in case I do find one, basically so it doesn't need to be fixed to the car with only the front latch.......and then gaffa tape to keep it in place for the RTN journey from wherever I get it
    • If your temps are fine now, you probably won't have any issues with where your vents are as they don't look right up at the windscreens high pressure area, so any differences when giving it the beans for extended happy laps would be minimal, but, they should vent heaps when stuck in traffic  Much like how that reverse cowl on my SS let "visible" heat out when stationary, but, because it was basically at the windscreen my coolant temps on the Hwy actually raised because air was being fed into it at speed (110kph), to only come back down to around 90° when I got off the Hwy And your 100% correct about the NC currently not needing vents, but, if I was to add a turbo, and a oil cooler and intercooler in front of the condenserand radiator, and then take it to the track???? It is apparently a recommend requirement if I don't want to worry about coolant or oil temp issues, but, any of the above are possible scenarios, over time As it sits now, with the triple pass radiator and stock air conditioning system, I have absolutely no issues with either temps or air conditioning efficiency, I've been basically daily driving thie car for the last month, both on the Hwy, and peak hour, bumper to bumper traffic, but, that's pretty much expected from basically a standard engine  Talking about no issues daily driving, it was 39° the other day and I was sitting in bumper to bumper traffic on the M5 and then M7, with the top down, and with the air conditioning blowing nice cold air on my feet, balls, and face, well, there was one issue, my head and arms got pretty sun burnt Note to self: leave a hat and sunscreen in the car for such days 🤣
    • I would agree, unless you need something specific to the HV motor/battery side repaired or investigated, any mechanic will be able to perform normal services, but if you prefer, maybe look for a mechanic who regularly services/repairs Nissans, the VQ engines are pretty common in the Nissan lineup.  Sorry, I can't make any suggestions, I don't live in Vic.
    • Some of them keep working fine. 9 out of 10 of them end up causing an absolute misery bleeding the system and get thrown on the workshop floor in a tantrum and never thought about again because they were never really needed and just added crap to the car that we could have done without. Same-same with HICAS, A-LSD, and various other stupidities that over eager 10x engineers thought we had to have.
×
×
  • Create New...