Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

about 3 weeks ago now i did a run down the quarter...

i redlined first gear and it spat out the dipstick and left it hanging off of the side of my engine.

my r33 now blows the dipstick out quite often and is realy worrying me.

Has anyone experienced this before? does anyone know what could *hyperthetically* of done this?

Im also having a problem with my powersteering/hicas

My hicas light will be on and ill loose powersteering *weather its related or not* although sometimes i will have no hicas light on the dash and it will all be sweet But generally, when hicas is on im powersteeringless.

Any info is apreciated...

*another subject*

If there is Anyone Interested in tradeing a r33 gts-t *auto* with veilside kit and drift wing, front mount intercooler large turbosmart bov, large 5" cannon on a 3" pipe..boost guage and boost tap, im looking for a r32 manual with light mods and good looks.. im open to any offer so just give me a call on 04 22202239, im from ipswich in qld............. its not that i hate my 33, i just like the older shape and manual setup better.

Cheers everyone and any help would be mad!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/143897-blowing-out-the-dipstick/
Share on other sites

Ok thats fair.. Although i have asked a few aged mechanics and they seem to think its a miner issue, nothing internal.. they are thinking it may well just be a vaccum leak in the pipes. the engine does not miss a beat, it simply idles more stagered then it should.

Anyways hopefully when i take it to the mechanic he doesnt tell me that i need a engine rebuild...

><

my rb25 was doing that too, i only just made it home in an oily mess, pulled the engine down and had melted ringlands on a piston. everytime i got on boost it would pressurise the sump and pop the dipstick out. it ran fine other wise.

i would recomend getting a comp test asap, will show up any difference in cylinder pressures, may not be a big difference depending on how bad the damage is.

my rb25 was doing that too, i only just made it home in an oily mess, pulled the engine down and had melted ringlands on a piston. everytime i got on boost it would pressurise the sump and pop the dipstick out. it ran fine other wise.

i would recomend getting a comp test asap, will show up any difference in cylinder pressures, may not be a big difference depending on how bad the damage is.

thats what i meant... i just isnt smart enough to wrote it :(

better get a second opionion from a more younger mechanics to check it out....seems every time i hear someone blow out the dipstick, the engine blows after a few weeks....so fingers cross.......

does it have a catch can? if so the catch can could be hooked up wrong and it is pressurising the sump

if not i would have grave concerns about the motor, as another possibilty is that you are are getting large amounts of blow by which is pressurising the sump and the engine will need rebuild to fix it.

get it compression and leakdown tested.

its either gona be cheap or realy expensive, could be blocked/not working pcv valve causeing it to build excesive crank presures and making it hunt at idle, or melted rings/pistons, my old engine ran fine except it used to pump out bout 1lt perhr of driving, other then that still went hard lol, p.s i had a catch can fitted at the time,

I would have my money on a smashed ring or smashed ring-land, allowing boost pressure to bypass the piston and pressurise the sump. And the simplest pressure-relief valve is the dip stick.

Get it checked pronto.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Let's hope that's not a copy pump either. There were so many copies of them back in the day.
    • Damn it, I was at work last night, and stayed in a room there during the storm with the car outside, but undercover, I just went downstairs and well....there was a large steel locker that has come from some place last night, it wasn't anywhere I could see yesterday, and yeap, it landed on the fraking car....of course it did..... LOL So, I'll need to take it back for paint and panel, luckily it was only the boot that took the hit, so it could have been worse Serves me right for staying at work and getting on the cans with some of the boys
    • Yeah, really happy with how it all turned out As for aftermarket lip, nah, I'm not really a fan for practically reasons on a street car that gets driven everywhere  I did have the full lower kit on my 2015 STI, but found the front lip scrapped alot, even at stock 4x4ish ride height As the NC sits now, with the lowest point of the car at 110mm, so just legal, some steep driveways and steep speed humps will still "just" scrap those little plastic OEM air dam thingies on the undertray just before the front wheels
    • Here's one I help build and tuned a decade ago, Garrett  GTX3071R Gen 1, T3 twin scroll 0.83 rear housing. Went from larger 272 cams down to smaller Tomei Poncams to help with the low end. S13 non VCT motor. Car was purpose built for the track, hence low down was the focus. Note the actual dyno chart shows lower boost, however the EBC and boost gauge showed 1.9Bar (Ignore the torque, I was young and didn't know how to set derived torque)  
    • I’m doing some side developments on SR20det S13 engines, its one my hobby cars used it to compare flow capacity of some smaller size wheels. SR20det is one of another JDM legendary engines I'm sure there are plenty of SR enthusiasts on this forum, I will share results some common turbo configurations here. a quick run down of what the car is: Wide body 180sx Type X with black top engine (blue). It has: Stock bottom end Haltech 1500 ECU 5-0 motorsports trigger kit Kelford SR20DET Beehive Spring with Titanium Retainers Kelford Cams SR20DET S13 188-B 268/272 Cams G25-660 Turbocharger in T2 .64 rear housing internally gated ARP Head studs MLS head gasket 1000CC ID injectors Walbro 450L Fuel pump Front mount cooler kit JJR’s 3 inches turbo back exhaust (its too short for the 180sx it had to be extended) Pump 98 fuel Hub Dyno tune So far made 270rwkws at 22psi full boost by 4500RPM. Engine is very knock limited hence a pretty bad looking top end. From previous experiences it seems like SR20dets are happier with bigger size turbine, some thing like a GT30 would make way better top end, but on same time response is lost. It won't be a problem with S15 VCT engines. I'll be testing alternative turbine housing, turbine wheel and possibly dump pipe options for extra flow to resolve the problem and of course E85 would resolve all the issues.            
×
×
  • Create New...