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[Factory 5]

On the Roadworthy checklist the mechanic wrote..." Idler arm worn, tie rod ends loose, and both lower ball joints worn/loose..."

I am trying to get this baby on the road before Christmas, CAN ANYONE HELP ME?? I have the car up on stands and i am unsure of which steering parts are what? Im thinking all the info I need might be in the service manual, or the minds of the users of this forum...

I am also having lots of trouble removeing the oil pressure sensor, as there is a slight leak from there(as the mechanic mentioned)

And the front muffler is cracked, so I was wondering whether to remove it and replace it with a straight through length of piping, or a whole new exhaust system, (which i dont know if i will do yet, might wait until i get the turbo setup and get a 2.5 inch...)

Thanks in advance,

Andrew (MAG86)

[blind_elk]

Idler arm is attached to the LH chassis rail, just behind the strut. It is probably the bushes that are worn - they can be replaced by urethane ones (available from Pedders).

Tie-rod ends are attached to the rear side of the strut, and have a threaded length of rod screwed into them.

Ball joints are sandwiched between the lower control arm (connects bottom of strut to engine cross-member) and the strut.

The oil sender, IIRC, is a 14mm hex nut. You will need an open-ended spanner to remove it.

Replace the front muffler with a hot-dog muffler.

Hope that all makes sense.

EDIT: Actually, I think to replace the ball joints you need to replace the whole lower control arm.

Edited November 20, 2006 by blind_elk

[V8skylineMAN]

Not trying to be negative at all, but with steering and brakes, if you dont know what your looking at, you shouldnt be playing with it.

that said, you have to learn somehow. easiest way to find out whats what is buy the parts on your list and get under the car with them....you'll soon see what goes where.....

af for the exhaust, go get you 2.5in, thats fine on a non turb L24 as well.

good luck with it

Jason

[Ghostrider]

Tie rod ends & Idler arm are all available NEW from Rare Spares. The lower ball joints come in the lower control arm as an assembly, unless you get a steering guy to replace them with I think holden, but they have to be pressed out and then the GMH variety gets bolted into place. Otherwise a guy on ebay sells the control arms complete for $140.00 per side, which is a pretty good price.

For the exhaust, 2.5 or 2.75 will work well, the larger on the L24ET but for now, I would suggest just replacing the split muffler with a hot dog, because as most will testify here, turbo exhausts are and entirely different issue to n/a. with n/a some back pressure is necessary, but turbo needs none and should have none.

Most of it if not all can be done by anyone with a reasonable set of tools, except probably the exhaust.

Just remember to get a wheel alignment after you fit all the steering bits, otherwise your tires will be r/s in no time

Cheers, D

[Ghostrider]

Just a thought, as blind elk says;

The lower ball joints might just be the bush where it mounts to the body, or the tension rod bushes, check that the tension rod nuts are tight and the rubbers aren't stuffed. Same with inner lower control arm rubbers.

Cheers, D

[Factory 5]

can anyone explain how to disconnect the lower control arm from the lower tie rod end? i have unfastened the nut, but it does NOT move....

and with the GMH lower ball joint replacement... can anyone elaborate a bit on that? I have sourced some control arm assemblies for $95 each, but im hopeing to do this 'swap' with the ball joints...

[racsov500]

tie rods are always tricky. youll need to smack the end of the rod pretty hard with a hammer. put the castle nut just on the thread so that you wotn screw the thread up from accidentally hitting it, and the tie rod wont go flying out when it finally works loose.

hit the ball joint part of he tie rod or the part of the hub the rod bolts too. you can also try a fork splitter, about 10 bucks from repco.