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R33 - How-to Fix The Auto Power Window Relay


Lazy-Bastard

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Hey guys wonder if you can help me, having similar problems with my s2 R33 gtst

Drivers window hsa been starting to play up over a few months, never has any problems going down, can stop at any point going down no worries and all works hunky dorey. Can go up form this same point no worries too. However if the window is allowed to go fully down and clicks into position some issues can arrise. A intermidate clicking noise can be head form inside the door, 2 click then few secodns gap and repeat. When trying to make the window go up sometimes the switch wont work and requeres some pushing down up down up or a bit of a wriggle. clicking stops straight away and the window goes up as normal...

Window has never not gone up but can take a few clicks.

Any idea if its the same thing or what i should look into?

Cheers

Same thing happened to me until eventually other day it just died completely got the test light out checked if voltage is going to the motor when pressing the switch and it was so the switch relay was fine but motor even powered externally had nothing so changed the motor all good now. Also put 12 V direct to the motor and check if it works just switch the terminals around to make it go forward or backwards/

PS, I have a r33 S2 and I dont know if you have a serious one of something but the relay for my switch was in the acual switchs not that other box you have shown in yours in mine thats the keyless entry relay.

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  • 1 month later...
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  • 4 months later...

My drivers window started acting up, it would wind down fine and go back up fine, unless it went right down and then it would click inside the door, only when the engine was running, I suppose it is the winder motor trying to wind down further from a dry joint repedatly contacting, then it would take some jiggling of the switch to get it to go up.

After reading this thread I pulled the switch out and can confirm there is no relay in the Series 2 just the switch, I went over all the soldered joints with a soldering iron. It is quite hard because there are 2 boards, one on top of the other, that maybe able to be seperated but I didnt dare, but managed to get all the major joints and most of the minor ones.

It works fine now but if it starts up again I will try to get another one.

I would post up pics but cant figure this new IP Board system out yet.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I 'did' have this problem, but after trying to fix it myself, playing with the relay and cables, I think i've burnt out my power window motor.

I check that 12v is coming from the relay box and thats fine, but doesn't seem to be moving the motor, im guessing I need to change it.

Does anyone have a good step by step in removing the power window motor from the door. Also, I have a spare passenger side door, which could have a motor in it (not sure yet), im guessing these aren't interchangable between LHS/RHS?

Any help would be great..

Cheers!

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  • 3 weeks later...

I suspected that my problem was different to everything mentionrd here mainly because nothing I did fixed it, so I compared mine to one that worked properly and realised my switch (the bit you actually touch) didnt click when I pushed down (like it used to) and this led me to the real problem which is the switch itself, inside it is a toggle that gives that click feel and the housing for it was broken/snapped, I tried to supaglue it but just made it solid but luckily ABC wreckers in Longanlea had a 4 door assembly that I used the switch out of.

If anyone needs the 4 door panel PM me.

The switch is easy to remove from the panel, I used a a jewellers screwdriver and just prised it up one side at a time. It pivots on the parts that you are trying to prise apart.

To avoid my SNAFU with the supaglue take the white part out of the switch with the spring THEN glue it and make sure that it slides feely when you put it back in.

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  • 1 month later...

I suspected that my problem was different to everything mentionrd here mainly because nothing I did fixed it, so I compared mine to one that worked properly and realised my switch (the bit you actually touch) didnt click when I pushed down (like it used to) and this led me to the real problem which is the switch itself, inside it is a toggle that gives that click feel and the housing for it was broken/snapped, I tried to supaglue it but just made it solid but luckily ABC wreckers in Longanlea had a 4 door assembly that I used the switch out of.

If anyone needs the 4 door panel PM me.

The switch is easy to remove from the panel, I used a a jewellers screwdriver and just prised it up one side at a time. It pivots on the parts that you are trying to prise apart.

To avoid my SNAFU with the supaglue take the white part out of the switch with the spring THEN glue it and make sure that it slides feely when you put it back in.

Aha! i have the same problem mate pinch.gif. its my drivers side switch itself thats lost its tension.

i was sitting there for ages trying to pry the actual plastic switch from its mounting points... that little bugger did not want to come off, wasnt sure how strong it was but i was bending it a fair bit.. not enough i guess.

glad you got it sorted on your own :thumbsup:

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  • 2 weeks later...

Ive got a series 2 and my old skyline too. I wanted to go pull out the relay box from my old series 2 r33 but it didn't have one.

I don't know if my current one has one but when I put the windows down(or up, just as long as I use them), sometimes I get like a buzzing sound from the switches and sometimes it goes up abit by it self.

Is the switch box fixable using the same method? Does the series 2 have this separate module?

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  • 5 months later...

Ok i know thia thread is old but i figure it is still relevant. Me and the old man will look at mine tommorow, and he has a multimeter and as an electrician has some idea of what he is doing, unlike myself.

Anyway, mine is a series 1.5 and the window had problems from the day i bought it. Me and the old man put a new motor in a few weeks back, it was no probs and worked fine again. Anyway, he took my car to get the gay epa test and noticed the window went slow coming down with the door closed. When it got tested it came out fully down and dad noticed a few km's up the road, not working at all.

Now the thing is, both windows are not working now, and the ignition light is flicking on & off, which it never did before. There is also a relay on the left of the steering under the dash constantly clicking. This clicking goes away when you disconnect the window switch assembly. Anyway, my old man will be able to get onto testing it properly with me tommorow, just trying to see if anyone has had something similar.

Btw- the fuses under the dash and bonnet appear fine..

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Ok i know thia thread is old but i figure it is still relevant. Me and the old man will look at mine tommorow, and he has a multimeter and as an electrician has some idea of what he is doing, unlike myself.

Anyway, mine is a series 1.5 and the window had problems from the day i bought it. Me and the old man put a new motor in a few weeks back, it was no probs and worked fine again. Anyway, he took my car to get the gay epa test and noticed the window went slow coming down with the door closed. When it got tested it came out fully down and dad noticed a few km's up the road, not working at all.

Now the thing is, both windows are not working now, and the ignition light is flicking on & off, which it never did before. There is also a relay on the left of the steering under the dash constantly clicking. This clicking goes away when you disconnect the window switch assembly. Anyway, my old man will be able to get onto testing it properly with me tommorow, just trying to see if anyone has had something similar.

Btw- the fuses under the dash and bonnet appear fine..

Grease the regulator, check the brushes inside the window motor, WD40 or CRC the the window sills and do this tutorial. Pressing the clicky things with you fingers, they will make the window go up and down.

Good luck.

post-85181-0-13934900-1318832371_thumb.jpg

Edited by H4x
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  • 1 month later...

Just pulled mine apart, I find that if i manually press the relay it would go up and down no problem, but if i hook up the switch, the relay does not move at all when i press the switch to go down. if you look at the soldering points on the switch, the flux is just everywhere,causing the current to go everywhere. So try cleaning the brown stuff off both the swtich and the relay. It works a bit better but still not perfect.

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  • 2 months later...

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