Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,

Just seeing what sort of interest I get...

I have a 98 model S2 GTS-t with 40,000km on the car with original log books from Nissan Japan. This car is a grade 4, I still have the auction papers.

I have just completed a rebuild on the motor which included forged pistons, metal head gasket,race bearings etc, motor has about 1,300kms have receipts...

The car is basically stock except for the following:

R33 Gtr Seats

GREX oil cooler

Trust exhaust

Ohlins coilovers (damper & height adjustable)

HKS Electronic boost controller

17 inch AVS rims

Blitz blow off and air filter

Factory Nissan kit (front bar, side skirts, pods)

The car is immaculate condition and looks brand new, it is tidy inside and out and also has 11 months rego left.

Im looking for about $22,000 but price is negotiable, I am not desperate to sell but just wanted to see what sort of interest I get. If you are not genuinely interested please do not post an offer.

Will get pics up by this weekend hopefully but pics dont do the car justice.

Let me know if I have missed anything.

PM me any offers or you can call me on 0414 30 32 33

Thanks

Joe

Edited by FUMIN

I have a 1998 HSV Clubsport 5ltr Auto in Diablo Red... Genuine 37,000klms with log books

$4000 Pioneer audio system

Genuine HSV GTO 18" wheels or the factory 17" wheels with the original tyres still with 75% tread.

The car is immaculate and it is un-touched

Umm preferably would like to sell straight out without a swap but also willing to possibly swap for sports cars...

i no someone who has a r34 gtt

PM me some details on the car.....

full nismo body kit even the spoiler, silver, triptonic, $4000 speakers, coupe, 280kw rb25det with twin garret turbo's. A

Guys,

Joe is my younger brother and I know this car very well...I can honestly say (and for those of you who know me, I don't bullshit around) that this car is in immacualte condition. The motor has just been rebuilt with quality parts so alot of $$$ have been spent. It's unfortunate that he has to sell it....

As you can see its priced well for a 1998 R33 GTS-T with a tough fresh motor so someone will get a good buy.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey guys,  I'm after some advice and this here is the best place to get it imo. I was a member a looong time ago under another account, with a lost email address. Its nice to jump back on and see some of the same names still giving good advice.  I mothballed my car when i moved to perth in 2013, and after getting towed across the nullabor a few times it has officially done more km's on a trailer than under its own power. Now that i have started the process of tidying up and modifying it, i see the fruit available (and the fruiterers selling the produce) is different than back in the day. hence my questions, as i used to 'know' what to get and now, i'm not so sure. Engine wise the car (92 gtst) has a walbro 255, k+n, fmic, cam gears and and turbo back 3"exhaust. Wish list is a Hypergear high flow or ATR43G1, Link G4x and some newer injectors before a tune up. My goals are modest, only low 200's power wise. i know i could achieve this with less, but i've been swapping out old for new where i can. Every cooling hose has been replaced, along with mani gaskets, WP, thermostat and radiator, fuel pump and timing belt, tensioner and idler, and i rebuilt the steering rack. Regarding the injectors, the fruiterers all seem to sell what used to be considered quite large injectors. There are a lot of options for bosch 1000cc EV14's, and i would like to know if that is a suitable choice for my build. Is modern injector design good enough to run these at the low duty cycles that i likely would be? is there a downside to running a too large injector these days? or, would there be an upside to running a smaller injector at higher duty cycle? I can see that there are smaller injectors still available, but the ones i have seen specifically marketed for RB's are pretty large (see: https://golebysparts.au/collections/fuel-rail-injector-kits/products/nissan-rb20-fuel-rail-bosch-980cc-1150cc-injectors-turbosmart-fpr800-regulator-kit), and i dont know enough about them to say one not marketed for RB's would fit or not. I have searched the forums, and amongst all the posts on older tech, I did see gtsboy recommend EV14's, but no size was mentioned... again, i'm not clear on if the smaller size bosch injectors are also EV14's as they do look similar.  also, if someone can recommend a tuner familiar with RB's in the Geelong or West Melbourne area i'd appreciate it. Thanks in advance guys. Cheers, Rowdy  
    • FWIW the depth of the groove in the rubber pad is not super essential, the blocks are rubber and squish a bit. If you are worried an angle grinder will make a deeper groove quick smart
    • I mean, if you were to move the jacking points away from the original location, that is, away from the wheels and closer to the centreline of the car, then it will be more likely to overbalance and tip off the supports. Same as we talked about before. I was talking about moving for-aft. If the sill is bent outward or inward, then the car would obviously look unstraight from the outside. Hopefully that hasn't happened either. Again, you can do comparative measurements from the chassis rails to see if there is much deflection.
    • Can you elaborate what you mean with your first sentence? I meant move as in the bulge kinda seemed like it got pulled "outward" meaning it got pulled down and to the side with the jacking rail itself, so the load bearing bulge now sits lower than usual and is not level with the sill on the other side of the jack point. Either that or the jacking rail just got pushed in a good bit.
    • As well as being risky WRT tipping off anyway. Yeah, I wouldn't expect it to move. Just measure from the rear one to the front one on the good side, then measure that same length on the wrecked side. You will find the notches in the pinchweld, and the jacking pad. Just spray a spot of marker paint or something there.
×
×
  • Create New...