Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok fellas. This is a car im looking at purchasing here pretty quickly. Spoken with the seller quite a bit and hes a stand up guy. I wanted to get others opinions on the underbody though. Im assured its just surface rust and nothing to really worry about but i wanted to get a second opinion.

From the pictures what do you guys think? See anything terribly wrong?

Appreciate any input before i throw down the cash on my second skyline.

01.jpg02.jpg

03.jpg04.jpg

05.jpg06.jpg

07.jpg08.jpg

09.jpg10.jpg

11.jpg12.jpg

13.jpg14.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/143975-underbody-opinions/
Share on other sites

Looks to me like it was driven in snow country a lot and picked up the salt from the roads (they salt them to melt the ice). I asked a few ppl about the salt roads and the cars from southern japan (tokyo or further south) are less likely to have been driven on salt roads much. Based on what you can see in the photos, there's probably more rust lurking elswhere.

cheers

Mikel

(about to purchase an R33 series 2)

Edited by mikel
Care to elaborate? Why? That doesn't really help me.

this is only the rust you can see ,once it has got into the seams of car ..the stuff you can`t see ...car is basically farked..get some photos of front towers.. if there is any rust stains on seams near tower bars than car is genuinely rooted ..meaning rust is in bulkhead and cannot be fixed

this is not an uncommon problem and cars have been knocked back for compliance for it,personally i would not comply this car..going by previous experience :cheers:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hows your intake piping? Are you still running stock? Having in the stock AFM position would mean, if the BOV was shut/venting out, it'd create the almost stalling kind of effect right // "the rich pulse behaviour" due to MAF thinking air is flowing ? But this would be better than having the bov in the stock position + MAF on/just before cross over piping right?
    • Essentially, yes. Although I wouldn't put the AFM on the crossover pipe. I'd want to put it into what amounts to the correct size tube, which is more easily done in the intercooler pipework. I bought a mount tube for card stile AFM that replaces the stock AFM - although being a cheap AliExpress knockoff, it had not flange and I had to make and weld my own. But it is the same length and diameter as the stock RB AFM, goes on my airbox, etc etc. I don't have a sick enough rig to warrant anything different, and the swap will take 5 minutes (when I finally get around to it and the injectors & the dyno tune).
    • So to summarise, the best thing to do is to move recirc to between turbo and IC, and maf on the crossover pipe. Meaning I'd need a recirc flange, drill a hole in the piping on turbo outlet area. And drill hole on crossover to fit/weld maf sensor? Either that or put the MAF on the turbo inlet right?  Is an aftermarket recirc/blowoff valve recommended? Do currently have family in Japan so could probably bring something back with maybe a cheeky lil SuperAutobacs run?
    • Yep, so far most have said that it looks like corrosion on the wall from piston not moving. Which then has probably damaged the oil rings and caused those vertical marks. The longest the engine was still after the rebuild, was the winter of 2018 - 2019, plus the boat trip to Japan. When I shipped the car, it had normal gas in the tank but before that winter pause, it had E85 in tank.  In any case, even if either one of those was the cause, it happened close to 6 years ago and the car has been driven something like 30 000kms after the fact. Again, apart from the plugs and the dip stick, there is nothing in the way the car runs that would indicate what has been going on in the engine. I am going to consult a shop and ask their opinion, what would be the best approach. I do have some access to a garage I could use to diagnose further myself, but time is very restrictive. Might end up buying another engine that could be used while this one is being remedied. Without pulling the head, it will be impossible to find out if it needs another bore, but here's to hoping a hone would suffice.  Goddamnit, I would really have preferred this not happening.  
    • Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
×
×
  • Create New...