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WHITER33GTS-T
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My old setup ran a 12.4 @ 120mph the was with 300rwkw.

Didnt get any time slips i knew it would be slow. Am looking into a big auto at the moment. I want to push the 25 as far as i can before going the 3lt bottom end. Yeah there isnt much going on between gears but once i reach 6k its a different story. lol

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New Setup.....

2x T3/T4 turbos built by Subzero

custom manifold built by Subzero

48mm turbosmart wastegate (from Ryan)

600x300x100 fmic

80mm throttlebody

Greddy plenum

1000cc injectors

custom fuel rail and surge tank

2 x Bosch 044 pumps

all new bigger fuel lines.

Didnt get any times slips they were all pretty shit runs. Was just trying to work out the best way to get it off the line. Did some smokey half track burnout passes tho. :O I bolted the slicks on and thats when 3rd broke.

Not much happens below about 5500 so that makes it a good time to make sure the seatbelt is tight but after then things get very very sideways.

X-RATED didnt you have around 400kw in your GTR??? I would love AWD traction. My next tune will be around 22 - 25 psi. Thats if the engine handles it.

Also ive been told my splitfire coils wont handle much more boost. Whats the go with a CDI ingition setup and how much $$$$??

Hey bud. Yer I raced with 28psi 50hp shot of gas and 393rwkw. My ignition set up was fine at that power level, even with the gas. If u do need more ignition power, use an HKS module or even a multi channel msd ignition system...

I wouldn't be so worried about screwing more power from it at this stage tho. Get the set up right, then lean on it. The set up is going totally depend on how much u wan't to sacrifice the origional car. I allways wanted a nice, fast street car, not just a drag car (as a GTR isn't the ideal drag platform- to fkn heavy for a start!) and that's what I ended up with.

A few points tho.

1. if u stay manual, buy a ppg helical cut dog gear set, as u'll just destroy anything else even a x-gear set u'll tear appart.

2. Get a set of adj traction arms, rear camber adj and a good set of tyres. Zero toe, zero to one deg negative camber (and a set of good condition stock struts all round) would be a good start to work from.

3. Get rid of the coilovers

4. Get a GTR diff and axles and a 2way

5. Purely to get the twins to spinn up, gas is allways a great option.

Other ways yoy could optimise the set up would include obviously a built and or stroked 3 to 3.3lt rb30 bottom end, closer ratio g-box/diff, gas!, auto/converter/diff combo, higher cr and race fuel, full weight reduction, propperly ported head can even bring a set of turbines on lower in the rev range...

I found the best launch was to load up on the handbrake as much as I could then...

I could write 16 pages, but I'll keep it short. As it's so hot here in the Caribbean. ha ha ha

:mellow: Justin

Either way, you'll need to decide how far ur going to comprimise ur car to optimise the engine setup you've chosen.

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Ive been looking at a 100hp shot of gas just until it comes on boost then have it cut out and let the boost take over. Even with the old setup it still wasnt fast on the street and just went sideways to easy with the stiff suspension. I already have a GTR 2 way diff they are fun :D

Im looking at putting standard suspension in for the drags to get some weight transfer to the rears.

It will be used for drags for now with front runners, slicks and a big auto and chase after 10s

I went so big with the setup cause a 3lt bottom end is on the cards.

Time will tell......

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Ive been looking at a 100hp shot of gas just until it comes on boost then have it cut out and let the boost take over. Even with the old setup it still wasnt fast on the street and just went sideways to easy with the stiff suspension. I already have a GTR 2 way diff they are fun :)

Im looking at putting standard suspension in for the drags to get some weight transfer to the rears.

It will be used for drags for now with front runners, slicks and a big auto and chase after 10s

I went so big with the setup cause a 3lt bottom end is on the cards.

Time will tell......

Hey bro. With the gas I'd probbably use a smaller shot but over the whole rev range. Especially if ur going to go with an auto and trans brake, you'll be able to ramp the boost up at stand still. If you have a larger shot of gas comming in and out of a touque band so quickly, it loads and unloads then loads again on your internals, considering you shouldn't activate gas before 3500rpm anyway. It will also cool ur intake charge air for those hot days at the track.

If your going with an auto, you might as well go the whole hog and get stock struts, springs and a set of re-valved pedders 90/10 shocks etc. A cheap allternative for rims as front runners, would be a pair of rx7 alloy space savers, I've seen them used very sucessfully.

When u do go to 3lt bottom end, remember the head/manifolding will sit at least 30mm higher, you may need to modify ur bonnet. Also, at 100mph+ aerodynamics will start having a big part, so I'd leave ur front bar on, some people see up to 2mph when they do...

If ur going to an auto/transbrake, slicks and a good ass end set up, u'll be looking at 9's I'd say with some practice.

Dose ur 25 have any internal work yet? oh and what did u do with ur old set-up?

:D Justin

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I sold all of the old parts that i didnt need. The engine internals are unknown really. I bought the car off Matt Rickards from Hobart. It has tomei cams and cam gears and i was told had forgies. Other than that i have no idea. I will find out when it pops. lol

I have to give a guy a call about a auto from a vl drag car. It sounds good so far...

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A really good mate of mine, Andrew Hunt bought it into the country years ago. Initially it ran around 240 odd rwkw. He sold it to Matt. The auction sheet said it had some internal engine work... so???

Good luck with it anyway bud...

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Is there any chance you could get a copy of the auction sheet and email it to me??? Thats if he still has it.

I had the front bar off to get the car on and off the trailor and didnt bother putting in on cause i knew the box was going to die. :ninja:

I'll email him, see what I can do...

I just had a thought about ur cdi ignition system set up. You can use Mercury outboard cdi coils, very high output voltage... they're only like $80 each, u can use them in conjunction with ur standard ignighter module and an expander unit, or have them run by somthing like a motec ignition module....

A set on falcon coils most certainly are not better than ur split fire coil packs!

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Yeah Mercury coils sound like the way to go. Im not going to worry about that until i sort out what type of gearbox im going. Auto or Manual????

There are pros and cons for either. Maybe i need a auto for drags then change it over to manual for track days???

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hay Phat MR30, who said you had to, i have not made my loom yet, but i was going to you the standard wiring from the plug.

Anyway see how it works.

I asked Microtech and thats where they told me was the best place to get it from.

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  • 2 weeks later...
I'll email him, see what I can do...

I just had a thought about ur cdi ignition system set up. You can use Mercury outboard cdi coils, very high output voltage... they're only like $80 each, u can use them in conjunction with ur standard ignighter module and an expander unit, or have them run by somthing like a motec ignition module....

A set on falcon coils most certainly are not better than ur split fire coil packs!

Hey Justin

Any news on specs from your mate???

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He dosn't have the auction sheet anymore. But at the time of purchase in japan the supplier said it had gtr rods and some type of other pistons??? He's just not too shure. It may be worth dropping the sump?

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He dosn't have the auction sheet anymore. But at the time of purchase in japan the supplier said it had gtr rods and some type of other pistons??? He's just not too shure. It may be worth dropping the sump?

Hallock get off the net, your in the Caribbean FFS :devil:

Hows everything going over there???

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I'd whip it out for two reasons...

1. To check the state of the thing, sepecially the big end bearing load wear. And possibly throw a set of rings/bearings and gaskets at it

2. To verify the internals...

If u were going to pull it down, and keep it stock components. I'd probably hone it, new rings and bearings, new oil pump.... and possibly prepp the rods, pistons and crank (cryo freeze the whole lot, then hpc coat the pistons.... teflon side coating and ceramic top coating) ballance it and see how far u can push a "stock internal" RB25... just to give it a chance.... A basic rebuild like that would be quite cheap.

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I dont really want to spend much more on this engine as i would rather just build up a 3lt bottom end for more torque and to help the turbos spool earlier.

This engine has had a hard life since ive had it and im sure Rickards gave it a hard time and also your mate. lol. But its still going strong so it must be pretty good internally. :)

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