Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well i've found one fundamental design flaw which means i WONT be buying the Viper 791... Something Chris and other may have touched on, but not clearly explained. If i was to buy the viper, i would be buying it as a remote start and turbo timer TOY, not an alarm or immobiliser, not for security.

Immobilisers normally have circuits which are Normally Open (NO). This means the immobilisation circuit is open, and car will not start, until the alarm module disarms, and applies power to the circuit. Cut power to the alarm, and the car will not start, because the immobilier needs to power up the relay to close the immobilised circuit.

The viper is a Normally Closed (NC) system, the circuit is normally closed, and the alarm must apply power to break the circuit. ie, cut the one power wire to the alarm, and the immobiliser will not keep the circuit open, meaning the circuit is not immobilised and the car can be started. Not a good immobiliser!

which is why I keep saying its all about the install..

I have a mate of mine (EE) that modded a 791 to do teh exact opposite of what you stated. did it simply becuase he could :D

  • 1 month later...
Hi Chris.

This Mongoose alarm on ebay says it is Aust standard certified. So this should be fine to get installed right? The difference in price is huge!

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/MONGOOSE-M80G-CAR-A...1QQcmdZViewItem

if you want to pay EVERYTIME it breaks - yes. it has NO warranty despite what the seller says. (they are not a dealer and other dealers WILL NOT warrant it.)

if you want to pay EVERYTIME it breaks - yes. it has NO warranty despite what the seller says. (they are not a dealer and other dealers WILL NOT warrant it.)

Because alarms break so often too....

And other dealers will warrant it.. You may not.. but don't speak for every installer/dealer around

Hey Chris i did sum research on the mongoose wedsite n it says got 11 programmable features. what r they ? can we get a module or something make it to auto start ?

Thanks

it does haev them. no module for RS though.

yeah I've got a Viper 791. I've found it to be great. I had my installer put in an extra two immobiliser points, plus a remote kill switch...

I dont know how helpful this will be for insurance purposes, although its bound to slow the pros down for at least another 30 seconds! :happy:

The remote start feature is the best thing about it for me.. The amount of damage I'm saving on the engine is not calculable, but surely good in the long run. That marketing campaign a few years back for an oil company said that a majority of engine damage is done when the engine is cold. Anyway thats just a perk.

If I had my choice again, I'd have a very difficult decision - although I'd probably end up with the M80 for security purposes. People cant say that their Viper alarm is great because their car hasnt been stolen! It's not until you lose your car that you will change your mind! haha

The remote start and auto window winding is awesome, although window winding can be implemented into most alarms i think?

Conclusion:

Buy the Viper for - Remote start, Flashy remote, 2 Way paging (only if its parked in your garage or within a few hundred metres- sif you aint gonna hear the exhaust anyway!!), engine saving ability if you religiously use the remote start to warm your engine

Buy the M80 for - Security - Black Wiring = harder to steal, Insurance approved (check the viper with your insurance company tho), possibly cheaper, easier to find replacement parts

using remote start to warm your engine is the worst possible thing you could do to your motor, and is causing more engine wear. yes most engine wear is caused when the engine is cold, starting your car when old, then letting it idle for an extended period and SLOWLY warm up just prolongs the amount of time the engine is operating at less than optimum temp. you should be hopping in the car, starting it, let it set for 10 seconds to ensure the oil temp is up, then drive out and heat the engine by driving it.

as for the viper being good, listen to what the car security pro's keep saying over and over. they have wanky features, but zero substance. I'd much rather have my car unstolen then have a massive fancy remote and useless features.

the previous owner installed a viper alarm. but i have no idea what it is. can anybody tell me how the hell i can find out? i've checked the engine bay and i can't seem to find where the module is.

if somebody could pm me with the possible location of the module(for security purposes obviously) that would great.

EDIT: fortunateley the owner before that(the first owner) fitted a 3-point vdo immobiliser which i am thinking of reconnecting in place of the viper. i just did a few tests. i prefer the vdo.

the previous owner installed a viper alarm. but i have no idea what it is. can anybody tell me how the hell i can find out? i've checked the engine bay and i can't seem to find where the module is.

if somebody could pm me with the possible location of the module(for security purposes obviously) that would great

most likely under drivers side dash

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks, plan is to drain all fluid tomorrow and do smoke test to find out the leak.   Appreciate your help and want to understand how the system work. So cooling is achieved by the long loop not any rad? The diagram seems to suggest it connects to somewhere inside the cabin and I thought that is a cooler inside firewall. If you look at the diagram it seems to show it connects to something inside firewall. I tried chasing it but not easy unless I take loads off   i am confident pump is good as fluid goes in and it gets soft( steering) but as soon as I turn engine off , loads of bubble come to surface and overflow. When engine is on , fluid level is below minimum but when off it shoots off and thinking it is sucking air in. I suspect aluminium pipe may have a crack line or whole   smoke test with no fluid should be a good start and if needed will remove the pump   In addition, the one going under the engine bay is high pressure line and one directly connecting from pump to resorvoir is return/ low pressure?   finally I searched and suggestion is to use dexron 2 but that is discontinued so bought dexron 3 as all research suggest it is compatible and shouldn’t cause any issues/ blow seals. I bought two liter of dexron 3 motul atf
    • Don't worry about. Just don't try to drive hard enough to make boost and you'll be fine.
    • Yes. This has already been said. It is a loop of hardline in front of the radiator. Because.... the pump is on the LHS and the steering rack hydraulic connections are where they always are on a RHD steering rack....on the RHS. The high pressure line goes down under the engine, along the crossmember, like it does on all Skylines. Don't just throw expensive braided hoses/other kits at it. Work out what is wrong and fix that.
    • Still got the afm on the intake, clamps are shut tight, only loose hose is the one that goes from the j pipe towards the IACV, since it's next to impossible to find a factory hose and the barbs are different sizes (I'm still using clamps on this hose to try and help it seal on the iacv side) I've ordered parts to make up the hotside of the intercooler pipes, I'll plumb it in and see what happens in a few days I suppose The turbo's internally gated, can I just unscrew the tension rod to let the gate open?
    • Did this ever go further ? Would love some updated info 
×
×
  • Create New...