Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, im looking at importing a car form japan, and have the freight cost, but am unsure of any other costs that may arise. car would be around 4-5 years old and i know the basic stuff like tyres and seat belts need to be changed, but anything else to look out for would be great.

and time frame as it takes them 2 weeks to get a shipping plan to me so eta on customs etc. as i know this can take up to a month or so.

thanks in advance.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/144086-importing-vehicles/
Share on other sites

subscribe to the mailing lists at www.j-spec.com.au and www.prestigemotorsport.com.au ..... they both have cost calculators and have stock you can check the fob prices to get a guide.

My R34 arrived in Adelaide 21 days after me paying for it (it came direct from Nagoya). It had to sit a further 3 weeks on the docks while the import approval was finalised. Compliance cost around $5k and took 8 weeks for mine (which is above average time frame). Remember to factor in the cost of replacing every single non-standard part for compliance.

dont know whether i should post this here, but either a forester sti if i decide to use it as a daily otherwise a b4 as a tarmac rally/hillclimb car. more looking for a race car, and theres not much in aus so that y im looking overseas.

condition does not worry me, and im wondering if i could skip compliance as it would maybe just be registered as a rally vehicle with a temp permit for events.

My R34 arrived in Australia 90 days+ after i paid for it. It had to sit a further 1 or 2 months on the docks which cost me a good $3400 alone for storage fee. Compliance cost around $3.5k and took 10 weeks, even sent it down from QLD to SA took me 1 week.

paid my first installment on 25 Nov 2005 and first register the car in S.A. on 22 May 06 :)

http://www.prestigemotorsport.com.au/modules/costCalc2/

On that page there, is a cost calculator for importing cars, no doubt alot of people would have browsed over it from time to time. hope that helps.

thanks guys, looking at importing an evo 7 for improved production class.

nebody familiar with putting a 2.4 stroker in any type of car?

i hope to do most of the modifications myself and depending on what level i have to go to as to whether it will be road registered or not.

Im guessing if i dont want to comply it and keep it as a rally registered vehicle i wont need to worry about compliance, which may be a quicker and more cost effective option.

thanks guys, looking at importing an evo 7 for improved production class.

nebody familiar with putting a 2.4 stroker in any type of car?

Ahhhh you might want too check the CAMS Mannual to see what you can and can't do to this Evo! Mate is building a RA40 Celica with a 3S Turbo to run next year!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A question for tuning awd, is it possible to disable the AWD? The stagea is an EA/T AWD, Toshi had said on a GTR, he was able to disable it and make it 2wd. Just wanted to double check if this was possible
    • Whoa, that's a name I've not see for a long time! Sorry to hear about the engine / turbo damage.  Fwiw with any engine problems it often really a case of just seeing what happens when it's apart, ymmv - I wouldn't rule out the possibility that the damage isn't even from the turbo failure, or possibly from a combination.  The airflow between cylinders isn't dead even, injectors can go off over time as well, with the turbos overboosting if you didn't have upgraded fuel system there could have possibly been a bit of leaning out - stock triggering is often a bit unreliable by this age too.  Basically its an old engine and a few things could have been going on, and you won't know how much work is needed until the engine is apart.  
    • I'm just shocked there's a euro driver on our roads who is thinking of other road users and not attempting to blind everyone. I wonder if Prank uses his indicator too...
    • Its hard to tell really. The Q50 owner's forum talks about it a lot and has quite a few people directly affected, but no idea what % of cars sold actually had the block replaced. Also, there seem to be 2 distinct issues which both get diagnosed by Infiniti as requiring a block replacement (no wonder they are going broke) 1. "Porous block" where coolant mixes with oil through thin or poorly cast parts of the block 2. Head coolant gallery plugs not sealing. If I was noticing engine coolant loss I'd start with cooling system pressure test (as always) and then I'd pull the cam covers and reseal the coolant gallery plugs on both side before worrying about a potentially porous block.  If neither of those did the trick it would be put in a second hand engine out of japan; I haven't checked pricing but I'm sure there are plenty around by now as they've been in production 10+ years
    • To clarify what I posted above, I thought you both had a situation where it cancelled sooner one way than the other.....if it is reasonably even where it cancels in either direction that is probably normal (consider gentle movements like lane changes, you don't want it to need half a turn of lock to turn the indicators off)
×
×
  • Create New...