Jump to content
SAU Community

Reliable 240-260rwkw On Rb25det: Checklist.

Andi

By Andi,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

jmac Rising Star

jmac

Posted
Posted
I'm on the same page at the moment. Looking to upgrade now too...

I need -

Turbo

Clutch

Injectors??

Air flow Meter??

Have -

ARC cooler

Front/Dump pipe

Fujitsubo catback w/hiflow cat

Power FC

Oil cooler

Bleed valve

What sort of highflow turbo are you guys using/looking at. I see so much variation in price...

Turbo: I would go for the high-flow option. There is a heap of info on here about the results people have got with these. Personally I had mine done by MTQ in Brisbane, no stuffing about with flanges etc but did need custom lines to clear a bolt. Similar to the GCG one I believe. Set me back a bit less than $2K from memory.

Clutch: Can't speak for the Exedy ones. I have a Jim Berry/RaceClutch 5-puck "carbotics" clutch and it's very bitey, annoying and noisy in a traffic jam but great on the track or open road driving.

Injectors: Nismo 480CCs bolted in fine but I have read the bigger Sards for the Z33 fit now too in the Neos.

AFM: Z32 meter from a wreckers worked fine after we worked out the wiring!

Boost control: What are you using for this? Bleed valves suck, tried one and it was ok but a bit variable and did spike. In the end I just used the boost control kit for the PowerFC and got a good result, nice flat boost curve.

On the radiator issue, I was getting high temps on the track after about 5 laps but things improved heaps with a proper radiator flush (i.e. take it out of car, send it away etc) and use of Redline Wetter Water or whatever it's called. Don't know how it'll go on Tuesday in the 35 degree Ipswich heat though....

I did have some miss and traced it to one coil - did the Araldite trick and moved it from no. 6 to no.1 cylinder and no problems since - left the coil cover off. Complete reliability (TOUCH WOOD) except for a water pump that needed replacing and the usual power steering leaks. ;)

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • joshuaho96
      Potential MAP Reference Point

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Isn't there a fitting on the back of the balance tube? That's what the OEM boost gauge uses.
    • GTSBoy
      Potential MAP Reference Point

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Getting a decent signal from all 6 throats is a challenge. I don't know for sure, but I suspect that the stock balance tube is not ideal for it. I have done it on an ALFA 4 cylinder (about 35 years ago, so don't ask for too many details). We drilled 4x holes in the manifold runners, put in some fittings and ran hoses to a decent sized (I think it was about 20mm diameter) pipe that ran the length of the inlet manifold. So, it was quite a decent volume. There is a "tuning" balance to be found between the volume of the common plenum on such a thing and the diameter of the pipes running from it to the runners. You need the volume to be large enough to damp out the sharp spikes in pressure signal you get as each runner gets sucked on by its cylinder, but not so large that it becomes too slow to respond to actual changes in MAP. And you need the hoses to be small enough to transmit the signal quickly, but not so small that they delay the signal. You might have to have more than one go at it, if there isn't any actual success based wisdom to be had here. Hopefully there is. Anyway, I would not do it on only a couple of cylinders. I would also not care about "permanently modifying a part". Just bloody drill holes and make stuff better. There is nothing sacred about any GTR unless it is a genuine museum piece that you shouldn't be modifying at all anyway.
    • MBS206
      NC MX5

      By MBS206 · Posted

      He's still joining you, he's just delayed it and won't have the fulleh sick ITBs...
    • Kinkstaah
      R34 GTT front hood lip

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      The strange thing is this is a URAS front bumper (or clone of it). The bumper actually does not sit flush with the GTT hood - You need the addon to make the hood 'long' enough to reach the bumper. I have no idea why they didn't incorporate this piece into the bumper itself.. instead of sticking it to the hood instead.
    • AdiR34
      R34 GTT front hood lip

      By AdiR34 · Posted

      Another thought on this OLD topic: When you paint your bonnet lip, leave a small unpainted back lip/line along the back of the lip, where it rests on the bumper. That way, the line in the back is much more prominent than the gaps in the front/under the lip - and it breaks the hood-to-bumper connection at the "correct" place, when comparing to a GTR. I'm gonna do this with mine this week, so stay tuned for pics!
×
×
  • Create New...