Order Of Mods 96 R33 S2

[steveo_r33]

OK guys,

See below whats done to my car:

- HKS HI FLOW 4 " exhaust

- S/steel front pipe and dump pipe

- 700 x 300 x 80 Tube and Fin Cooler Kit

- Nismo Short Shifter

- HKS Coilovers

- Turbo Timer

- Standard Cat* :-(!

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Ok the mods below are what will be happening in the next 12 weeks providing my finances are sorted:

* Nismo / Sard 550 cc Injectors

* Bosch 040 / 044 Fuel Pump

* Hi Flo Cat (Metal Cat / Catco???) (Help me decide)

* Apexi Power FC / Hand controller

* Advance the timing

* Z32 AFM

*CAM GEARS / CAM Shafts

* S/steel manifold low mount

As you can see below i cant make up my mind on a boost controller LMAO :

* Greddy Profec B / Eboost 1 / Greddy E - 01 Boost controller / Blitz EBC / HKS EVC

Reccomendations?

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Just wondering which of the next mods should come first and why:

This is how i think it should be done:

1 Hi Flo Cat

2 Boost Controller (put it on 13 - 14 psi)

3: Advance the Timing

3 Then Fuel Pump

4 Cam Gears / Shaft

5 Then power FC

6 Then Injectors

7 stainless manifold / Z32 AFM

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Am I thinking right or is there a better order.. and any mods i have forgotten that fit in between what i have.

I am hoping to end up with 280rwkw....without having to change bottom end am I dreaming?

not aiming for 280 any time soon but need the base mods to be capable of ending up with this result... ie do everything / then when my stock turbo is not enough i will upgrade it.

are my base mods appropriate?

Heres a pic of the weapon 2 be:

Any one have reccomendations on cam gears / shafts?

Should I wait a few months to see if apexi brings out a better power fc?

cheers guys i am still learning so keep it fairly simple lol.

This is my second R33 S2 I have owned, but this one is going to be a weapon :-P

[mad082]

ok, well firstly do the cat.

then up the boost a little bit - but you won't get 13-14psi on the stock ecu. it will say goodnight before then.

then fuel pump.

z32 afm, injectors and ecu should all be done at the same time to save you money on tuning. but if it must be done seperately do ecu then injectors then the afm.

as for the boost controller, i'd just use one of the turbotech ones until you get a bigger turbo. the perform really well.

[steveo_r33]

ok, well firstly do the cat.

then up the boost a little bit - but you won't get 13-14psi on the stock ecu. it will say goodnight before then.

then fuel pump.

z32 afm, injectors and ecu should all be done at the same time to save you money on tuning. but if it must be done seperately do ecu then injectors then the afm.

as for the boost controller, i'd just use one of the turbotech ones until you get a bigger turbo. the perform really well.

ok yeh sounds good.....

although i had my car dyno'd when it only had a cat back exhaust system...... pulled 160.5 at 9 pound..

since then cooler has been added so it would be on about 10 ... then get the hi flow cat id have to b between 10 - 11 psi ?...

so if you say i wont get 13 or 14 psi out of the stock turbo as the ecu will say "bye bye" ... and wont let me do it...why do i hear of everyone with 33s taking it up to as much as 15 / 16 pound? they havent got p fcs. / computers...

so if i get a boost controller and so how much can / should i boost it considering it will alredy b on around 11. / 10.5

[mad082]

those people running that high amount of boost on the stock ecu are like me, have a remapped ecu. the stock ecu has a rich and retard function that usually kicks in around 13psi (works off airflow, not a certain pressure). before i had full exhaust my stock ecu would hit it at 14psi. then i did dump pipe and cat and it would hit it at about 12.5psi.

[paulr33]

you only need the z32 if upgrading the turbo

no need for manifold change

buy a smaller core'd intercoller, that one is too big

make sure u get some suspension work done, with that power and stocky setup its gonna fry tires a lot (meaning $$$)

buy a cheap boost controller (no need for $700 one)

heavy duty clutch is a must, stocker will die near 180rwkw

[RANDY]

I'd back Mad082's suggestions...

1 Hi Flo Cat - definately. Should have been done with the dump and zorst.

2 Boost Controller (put it on 13 - 14 psi) - Not that high. 10-12 max on stocker.

3 Then Fuel Pump - shouldn't need a tune to have it running.

4 Cam Gears / Shaft - without tuning the gears. Can do that after PFC.

5 Then power FC - Ready to tune the below mods, which won't run nicely without modifying maps/timing.

6 Then Injectors - PFC can adjust for those. You would already have the fuel pump in to deliver the pressure to the injectors

7 stainless manifold / Z32 AFM - AFM will need the PFC to adjust for it.

3: Advance the Timing - Gotta see knock and have the PFC tuned for manually advancing the timing/cam gears.

[steveo_r33]

you only need the z32 if upgrading the turbo

no need for manifold change

buy a smaller core'd intercoller, that one is too big

make sure u get some suspension work done, with that power and stocky setup its gonna fry tires a lot (meaning $$$)

buy a cheap boost controller (no need for $700 one)

heavy duty clutch is a must, stocker will die near 180rwkw

hey paul..

cheers for the info... well considering the intercooler is already in and looks awesome...

no chance im getting a smaller one!!!...

why would you suggest to change the cooler..?

lol i just got it in ...

it is big but thats a fairly commonly used size man... and besides more air is better...

I am no mechanic but i know that I am not going to benefit from going to a smaller core..

this size fits nice in the s2.... completely covers it up and piping comes out under foggies as seen in pics...

Regarding suspension work: I am getting full wheel balance / corner balancing and a safety check in a few weeks from East Coast Suspension.. I am also going to get them to throw some top camber arms on..

So you guys think that i should just put it to 12 pound / 11? .. its probably around 10 atm

[steveo_r33]

I'd back Mad082's suggestions...

1 Hi Flo Cat - definately. Should have been done with the dump and zorst.

2 Boost Controller (put it on 13 - 14 psi) - Not that high. 10-12 max on stocker.

3 Then Fuel Pump - shouldn't need a tune to have it running.

4 Cam Gears / Shaft - without tuning the gears. Can do that after PFC.

5 Then power FC - Ready to tune the below mods, which won't run nicely without modifying maps/timing.

6 Then Injectors - PFC can adjust for those. You would already have the fuel pump in to deliver the pressure to the injectors

7 stainless manifold / Z32 AFM - AFM will need the PFC to adjust for it.

3: Advance the Timing - Gotta see knock and have the PFC tuned for manually advancing the timing/cam gears.

tks for info... you wrote "gotta see knock and have the pfc tuned"

I dno what you mean whos knock lol.

I am going to advance the timing before the power fc.. cheap mod*.

[steveo_r33]

you only need the z32 if upgrading the turbo

no need for manifold change

buy a smaller core'd intercoller, that one is too big

make sure u get some suspension work done, with that power and stocky setup its gonna fry tires a lot (meaning $$$)

buy a cheap boost controller (no need for $700 one)

heavy duty clutch is a must, stocker will die near 180rwkw

Clutch reccomendations ?? going to be a bit of pressure on it ... may take my car in a couple of drift days..

whats a good cheap boost controller? i can get a profec off performace wise for like 390$! i dont want a manual one i am scared of boost spiking.

[mad082]

get the cat done and then see what it flows at. if you don't have an aftermarket gauge, get one of them too.

Edited November 22, 2006 by mad082

[steveo_r33]

those people running that high amount of boost on the stock ecu are like me, have a remapped ecu. the stock ecu has a rich and retard function that usually kicks in around 13psi (works off airflow, not a certain pressure). before i had full exhaust my stock ecu would hit it at 14psi. then i did dump pipe and cat and it would hit it at about 12.5psi.

what actually happens when you get to the level where the ecu cutts out.. does your engine shut off / fuel cut / or what does it do????

bad for anything?

"random question" : what does a fuel cut defender do and will it benefit me? when should i get one if so.

[mad082]

when you hit rich and retard it feels like the ignition has been turned off for about half a second. then it comes roaring back to life.

[steveo_r33]

you only need the z32 if upgrading the turbo

no need for manifold change

buy a smaller core'd intercoller, that one is too big

make sure u get some suspension work done, with that power and stocky setup its gonna fry tires a lot (meaning $$$)

buy a cheap boost controller (no need for $700 one)

heavy duty clutch is a must, stocker will die near 180rwkw

yeh i wasnt planning on getting the z32 until my car was over 240awkw / changing tbo...

thats what i have heard is how to do it... im sure you know what your talking about i have read some of your tutorials quite the technical dude!

[Nismo_God]

sorry to hijack thread but I plan to do some mild mods but reading this thread has got me a little worried. Im aiming for 200rwkw. 169 at the moment with split dump pipe, 3" system and 5" cat. was planning to throw on a fmic and raise boost to 12psi for dyno/drag.

someone mentioned that the stock clutch fails at 180kw and the stock ecu wont get to 12psi. Also what is this remapped stock ecu? cost? where to get it done?

Thanks

[paulr33]

do a search, its all been covered many many times

you will fry the stock clutch and youll need a beavy duty one

stock ecu has excess airflow protection known as R&R